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Prr e7-a and e7-b construction

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You don't hear that often ..

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Thanks, next is the paint if I can find the correct Tuscan Red. Bob.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

I finally learned how to use my Alps printer.  I am going to attempt to get these decals on the locos without wrinkles. The last picture was a test to see if the decal was not transparent and it is not, so it worked.  I layered the colors, white, then one spot yellow, then, two layers of the regular color yellow and then a pass with the clear cover print and the color came out opaque not see through as some of my experiments did.  Bob.

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You are full of surprises ...

  • Author

Yes, i kept hearing how great these Alps printers were, but until I, by trial and error kept trying to figure it out did I have success.  I now agree, for decals these printers are the best.  The best trick that this printer has is to be able to register the paper exactly in the proper place to overlay the next layer of color or clear.  I just bought an Alps MD 5000, but it needs repair, so I will have to fix it, I will let you know how that comes out.  I talked to one of the people in Japan that sells these refurbished printers and he said that the best one is the MD 1300 because it has fewer problems that any of the others. Bob.

The late Stan_Cedarleaf had a great business printing decals with his printer 

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  • Author

Yes, I miss him.  I bought several decals from him and they were perfect and I had no idea that he used this printer. Bob.

Yup and he was very careful with his as they were not made anymore..

  • 4 weeks later...

Hmm hard to see in the pic ..they blend in with the counter ..

OUTSTANDING ...

Boy they do take up some real-estate don't they .. Nice...

You amaze me with your talent. Figuring out the Alps printer was way beyond me.

  • Author

I thought that they were a little long myself, but it's the scale length.  They will look better with the other cars in tow.  Jerry, I have gone crazy with these Alps printers, I now have four, two MD1300's, two MD5000's, and one Roland PC12.  I see these printers on Ebay for so cheap and can't resist buying them. New the Roland cost 5000.00 new, and I got it for 312.  They fascinate me.  This Roland PC12 is an MD5000 on steroids.  It also cuts. These printers are not made anymore, so repairs have to be made, so I am learning as I go along.  When I got the Roland, it wouldn't initialize and got a red light, and so I found out that there is a bar code on the door needed to orient the carriage, it was dirty, and when I cleaned it, it prints great now.  These things are amazing.  I have also bought a pad printer and a laser plate or cliche maker.  I will be pad printing some numbers and logos on the cars. As if I don't have enough to do. Bob.

Hmm maybe you can carry on were Stan left off...

  • Author

Oh I doubt that, I don't think I will live long enough to learn all that is necessary.  I am trying to learn to create dry transfer letters and it is hard to find info. on this subject, sounds like the people doing it are very secretive about their methods. Bob.

  • 3 months later...
  • Author

I have not posted in a while, but it wasn't as if I wasn't doing anything with this project, I am just slow.  If you remember a while back, with the T1, I used a Buegler pinstriping tool to put the PRR stripes on the tender.  Well I made a new holder that is a little updated compared with the original holder.  I have devised a holder for pens and the pinstriping tool that is far better.  I am posting a video of the pen holder in action spelling out the PENNSYLVANIA  name that will go on the loco, just a test for now.  Today, after some more lining up, I will attempt to apply it to the loco.  This pen holder has no spriings, as it works on gravity only, just the wt. of the pen and the tube that holds it.  Here is the video, I hope.  I forgot, when you are on my YouTube channel, there are some more videos of the holder and the way that I will mount the Buegler tool.

 

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