April 14, 2025Apr 14 Been away from forum for a while, and not picking up where I left off, got 'side tracked'. Took this off the shelf after more than 10 years. I was surprised to find all the electronics are still working, and even more surprised to have remembered the mods I made to it. Still cleaning it up and testing, hoping to fire it up later today or tomorrow. Hideout Live Diesel designed my Jerry Hyde, airplane engine drives a motor that is used as generator. Installed R/C so can be controlled remotely, enjoy.
April 14, 2025Apr 14 Author Here it is 12 years ago when I first assembled it, enjoy. May want to lower your volume, quite rude.
April 15, 2025Apr 15 That is very impressive! There is quite a bit of time figuring the details out on that and actually getting it to work!
April 15, 2025Apr 15 Author Chuck, thank you. Ray, I can't take much credit, was designed by Jerry Hyde. He sent me a box of assorted parts, the engine is my choice. The design was hand drawn on a piece of paper. R/C is what it is. Hardest part was 'hollowing out' the body while maintaining strength to hold it together, then squeezing it all into the narrow body of an RS locomotive. Hind sight I would have used a full body loco Taking this pic I remembered I also installed battery to operate the locomotive lights. Despite the rude noise it is fun to watch and run. I admit, I did make some electrical modifications, other wise wouldn't be me. Still havin' fun.
April 20, 2025Apr 20 Author RAY, thank you very much. I am afraid to so anything on this, BUT on your advice to re-fresh my browser, I realized I also have CHROME, and DO DA here I am. Thank you again, Stay Well
April 28, 2025Apr 28 Author Made a lot of progress. EngineDIY has been holding up my order for 2 months, got tired of waiting so made my own starter drive belts. Was trial and error, mostly error and finally got it right. Original belt is 8mm wide but found 6mm belts on Amazon and Rubber Adhesive and sized my own, AND THEY WORK. Also made my own exhaust pipes and muffler, and it also works. Once I got mine and the engine shaking synchronized was able idle down to where I can use it to drive the generator below 3K RPM. At that speed the generator is putting out about 7VDC and I can use the Mosfat circuit to trim it so the wheel are not moving at engine idle. Just like the HYdeout arrangement. Still more to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJbd5VE64e4 https://youtu.be/ZJbd5VE64e4 I just want to add: makes one ---- of a mess and STINK!!
April 30, 2025Apr 30 Author Joe, exactly what I am doing: since it is basically a 2 cycle engine the lube is mixed with the fuel. As is can not use it as I intend with expended oil leaking from the exhaust system joints. Even thought I doubt it, must try, sealed all the seams in the system hoping to limit the mess to the exhaust outlet only. Knowing how hot the nitro fuel gets, don't think the JB will hold for long. If not, just 1 more error to add the list. Previous projects showed the nitro exhaust to be hot enough to loosen silver solder and the parts just fell apart. When in doubt, have a back-up plan at the ready: This is a true 4 cycle gasoline engine, with pumps for lube oil and coolant so the exhaust will be much cleaner. Haven't attempted to start this one yet, only variable to it is the ignition timing. Same as the old Harleys, 2 cylinders spark at the same time only the one with the fuel/air mixture will ignite. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nrSDpzEZO0s?feature=shareI have my doubts it will fit in the intended target. Carrying on as ordered, SIR.
May 1, 2025May 1 Author Hello Sean, Yup, back at it and just a Screwy as ever. Will fire up to see how poorly the JB holds up to the heat, a little later.
May 1, 2025May 1 Author SURPRISE SURPRISE, the JB held accept in one place, and that joint only had a skim over the top and nothing inside. Ran 1 & 1/2 tank of fuel and only #1 exhaust pipe showed less than 1 drop of clear liquid on top. Still hoping that EngineDIY sends the one piece exhaust manifold, but doubt it. Did wonders for the exhaust oil leaks, but NOTHING for the stink, nose actually burns. More tests needed, but for now I must TURN TO. Have a great day all.
May 10, 2025May 10 Author Chuck, thank you. First tested track continuity using a hand car and power supply, I do like that SS track. Used this test to make sure the generator can put out enough to run both A & B units. I intend to install the set up into the B unit to power both. Still haven't gotten the engine to idle down to where I want. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/h3gHgxQQGzA
May 14, 2025May 14 Author Also assembled a 4 cycle 4 cylinder engine that runs on gasoline. Hoping that one will sound more authentic. I am having trouble starting it. Trouble shooting started with the Ignition system. First one of these I have seen to needed to learn how it works. There is a sensor mounted on the block behind the fwd belt pulley that activates the spark via a magnet on the pulley. it flashes green and amber lights. Ignition similar to the old Harley where both plugs spark at the same time, only the cylinder with the fuel air mixture will fire. Had to SEE it actually work, so set up demo using Slo Mo video. First is pic of the set up for testing plug #1 & #3. Then lights out to see when and if it fires. As you can see when the green light flashes plugs 1 & 3 fire. The blue light is the spark plug firing. Had to confirm the amber light activates 2 & 4, and so it does. After all that I have to assume my problem is fuel delivery, which seems to be OK. . Now to re-assemble and insure that the green indicator is lit at TDC of #1 cylinder. Since I presently have the valve cover off and made clear plastic side covers so I can see the crankshaft will be easy to determine TDC of the compression stroke. Any suggestions gladly accepted.
May 16, 2025May 16 Author OK, yesterday was a bust, even tried starting fluid on a cotton ball in carb, still no start. Last resort: Home Depot and bought a quart of 92 Octane Alcohol free gasoline, yes was expensive. Also will use electric drill to crank it, hope to save the starter motor for future???? I got big expectations.
May 17, 2025May 17 Author Sean, thank you, but didn't happen. Using the drill sounded like it wanted to catch. NOt wanting the drag of the drill, removed it, went back to starter motor. One revolution and it STOPPED. Frustration, so I just put it aside. Today will disassemble and see why.
May 18, 2025May 18 Author Tried to EDIT previous post, but guess there is a time limit to do so. UPdate: one of the brushes broke off the starter motor spring. No fuel tank, no fuel lines and hasn't had fuel in for over 24 hours. connected drill to crank shaft and the spun it, smell of gasoline was quite strong, so it's getting that too?? Ordered another starter motor, only $10, but takes about a month to get here. Also played with the 2 cylinder unit and found the idle mixture screw was not seated properly so may try that one today. Beginning to think I am into self abuse??
May 29, 2025May 29 Author Made progress: built a more solid base in hopes of it running quieter and with less vibration. It seems to have worked. Got the idle down to where I want it. Even thought the vibrations are way down, the set screw holding the universal joint to the engine output kept loosening so ground a flat spot on the shaft, better. Received a replacement starter motor for the 4 cylinder unit, believe it is an upgrade from the one supplied in the kit. Much stronger, doesn't hesitate on the compression strokes. This one runs on gasoline, which I prefer, much cleaner than the nitro. Still need to start that one. https://youtu.be/TeMD9fr9iF4
May 30, 2025May 30 Author Joe, thank you very much. Believe I just got 'side tracked' yet again. Was orignally going to power FA & B with it, now leaning to use it in the A-1-A shark that I bashed from 2 shells. Subject to change on a whim. https://youtu.be/rJb7xblVy0M
June 18, 2025Jun 18 Author Well, more time and another engine on the bench. BOTH of them have issues. The first 4 cylinder, Cison, has fuel issues, came close to starting before the THIRD starter motor failed. Even though I like the features of this, oil and water pump for lengthened running, has issues and EngineDIY is playing an Email back and forth game. The other one is a Toyan 4 cylinder OHC that I got from Sterling in hopes of having better luck. This one has electrical issues, doesn't produce spark at all. Playing the same back and forth Email game, believe I am dealing with the same person even though using different Sites and Email's. Didn't have thse issues when I assembled the Hydeout Mountain kit. The Japanese engines ran great first crank every time, just not crazy about the sound and really want something more of th LOOK of an AMERICAN made engine. Any comments and suggestions greatly appreciated.
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