Here’s what I came up with from the picture. There’s one with a cut out to go around a Kadee, and one without. I used double sided tape to attach this one to my GP and decided not to put holes for mounting so it’s not engine specific. Made of abs and printed at .15mm layer.
$20 shipped for 1 or 30 for 2.
You are amazing!
I'll probably need two just in case.
I'll pm you for payment details.
Is there anything that I'd have to do to prep it for paint besides sand it?
I'm still trying to figure that one out myself... If it's solid I can use the existing holes on the pilot and drill and tap holes for a 2-56 screw. Or just glue it using Tenax 7r if the type plastic can handle it...
Yes thats all I need for right now. That is until I can figure out what is on the cab of these units as well. That and a K5LA24 or RS5T horn... Which don't exist in G. I'll never complain about the lack of parts in N scale again... (...to a point anyway. )
Hello, I could help you with printing a plow. I looked at the link you posted and I would just need a some dimensions and how you want to attach it to the locomotive. Rayman4449 notified me of your post as he’s planning to do a DCS install in a project I’m building.
I don't really know how I would get dimensions for it to be honest, its kind of hard for me going off of photos and no one seems to have dimensions online either.
You picked an excellent locomotive for your first one. I have a KCS 38-2 and I really enjoy it.
Also thanks for the pics as that actually helped my dilemma. I was wondering if USA Trains mounted the horn with a screw, but it appears they don't... So now I can get to relocating it to the dynamic brake. ( And hopefully find the right K5LA24 or RS5T horn...)
Also you can use a chisel blade exacto to cut what you don't want flush with the pilot, cab etc.
As for the windows I believe they are different between Superliner I and Superliner II cars. Same with the trucks. Kato in N scale have produces both variants of the Superliners. Not that N scale would help I suppose...
Is there a way to vacuum form the bodies? I know guys in the RC car do that in lexan.. it's pretty durable and flexible. Though mostly flexible... if anything it'd be good for Windows...
So I am not a 100% in the market for one just yet... that is unless I can do some sort of layaway type option... if that type of stuff is allowed here...
Just getting feelers out there because I am on a tightish budget and cannot afford to drop $500 or so on a single locomotive.
I had the same thought a couple years ago, but my plan was to make the distance between the lights shorter... but that would take alot of of triming and soldering... and time of course...
May have to bug Raymond about it... see if he still wants it.
Wonder how they did the handrails... wrapping mine took almost two hours.
Though i was thinking of renumbering the 38 instead of trying to get all the logos printed... probably easier to renumber it to 1917, as i cant find many photos of 1906 and alot of details are wrong for that unit. Ah well.
Did a little more work to the KCS GP38-2...
I added stripes to the handrails.
But they are thicker than the prototype... not as even either, but it gets the point across.
Used Great Planes Kwick Stripe 1/16" width. Seems like decent stuff, pretty easy to work with as well.
Sorry for the crappy photo... on a different phone... has a 5MP camera... blasted burner phones... 5MP?!? Its 2017... at least give us 8MP, that should be standard on a $50 android... (was on all of my Windows Phones...) what year is this? 2010? Blah!
[/rant]
When I get a better phone again I will retake the shot...
At some point I would love to do sound, I am also confident that I can hardwire a Loksound decoder in the GP38-2, after all I have hardwired loksound micros in N scale locomotives before. G scale should be a breeze.
Now my concern is if my MRC Prodigy Advance2 can power it... Don't really need smoke, but it'd be nice...
But for right now I'd like to be able to pick up some more modern Rolling stock before I get to that point, so just finding a better DC throttle is preferable at this point... Ya know better than than the Bmann controller...
Also I got the parts in today, and did some test fitting, though the mirrors will most likely stay where they are at... And need to be painted Red...
For the cut lever bar, all I did was bend it in a few places and I don't mind how it looks, other than needing to be painted black...
I still have to figure out how to modify the pilot for ditch lights... And MU hose... And the weird plow not plow that KCS used...
Oh yeah I also shortened the chain a bit, maybe a bit too short... But I like how this looks compared to the stock version...
Other things I need to do is move the horn to the hood just behind the dynamic brake blister, get the right decals for the nose and side of the cab, and figure out what is on the roof of the cab of the prototype, and copy it on the model. I may end up adding brake pipes to the brake cylinders on the trucks as well.
So yeah that's all I have for now... I think anyway...
So a couple months after I posted this topic, I went ahead and purchased a KCS GP38-2.
So far I love running it, though I need something better than a cheap @$$ Bachmann controller... (any help would be appreciated on deciding a new one that's reasonably priced)
I have parts for it coming in today to more modernize it.
I found SD70MAC cut lever bars, mirrors, and Ditchlights were just the thing I needed to improve the looks of it.
I will post photos when I get those added on, the Ditchlights maybe the last thing I have to do since I have to modify the pilot a bit...
Also is any one here able to make decals?
I could really use new KCS logos since USA Trains didn't do enough research on 1906...
Ok I could still use some straights and turnouts, but I will say any other type of rail is fine for the turnouts... preferably something larger than a R1 / 2' radius / 4' diameter curve. Should be code 332 as well please.
I will gladly go to code 250 when my budget will allow it and or actually have a yard lol
And what can be done to it to look closer to tarnished brass? Or would I be better off painting the rails?
I have a decent amount of Aristo Aluminum track but cannot for the life of me find any turnouts from them or code 332 Aluminum anywhere (with out selling an organ to buy them) I had thought of handlaying a couple but even my attempts in N scale was horrible...
i have also read that stainless steel and aluminum don't mix well so I have avoided some deals I have seen on feebay.
So I am looking to buy a few sections of aluminum track, preferably stuff that is compatible with the Aristocraft track. Which to be honest I don't know what code it is...
probably 332...
Anyway I "need" a few 12" straights and possibly a turnout or two...
I personally build in 1/32 scale. I really haven't chopped up anything yet. I looked at what was available and chose to. I have 1/29 scale stuff as well. I mix them in freight trains all the time. When I did that with passenger stuff, I was amazed at the difference. It forced me into a decision towards the future. So I find it much easier to go with 1/32 scale. I bought a few Accucraft passenger cars in 1/32. I wish I could afford some of the finer models that have been built over the years. I wouldn't have the guts to change their gauge.
You won't find much modern stuff in 1/20 so the choice is much easier. There are many running what they refer to as narrow gauge with the older eras. I just prefer to model modern stuff that runs right now on the real tracks.
USA and even Aristo made some fine modern models. After investing much time and energy into them, I prefer MTH's drive train. So the others will get cut down to 1/32 if I ever feel the need to. For now, I just run them as is.
I'd admire you if you took heavier gauge rail and went thru the effort of widening the gauge to 1/29. I like the Aristo 332 stainless rail I have for how tuff it is. I drive my mower over it and the grandkids step on it all the time. I do enjoy looking at many modelers overseas that use finer rail profiles. It looks very nice. I hope it holds up for them.
I suppose I get that, I just want to say it is not my intention of being rude about this I am just genuinely curious as to why people haven't tried it. I mean I am new to G scale, so I don't understand the the dynamics yet.
I dont know in my head it would make sense to widen the gauge then trying to cut and refit pieces... but I'm lazy and definitely not as skilled as you guys.
Someday I would love to hand lay track in g scale, and figure out what I need to widen the gauges too, and if it's possible to pull the axles on some locomotives and widen those as well. Trucks may be easier to do.... well ones with split axles I suppose.
But for now my G scale will be limited to temporary set ups due to that apartment life
(none of my work is admirable so be prepared to be disappointed )
I don't suppose I was clear, I understand why the gauge is what it is, I was asking as to why people don't adjust the gauge of the track and trucks of locomotives and rolling stock instead of cutting up perfectly good trains to scale them down to 1:32... granted a lot looks great... just a theory I have...
So I understand that the 45mm track is too narrow for 1:29th scale Trains, and I see a lot of people hacking up their 29th stuff to scale it down to 1:32, so my question is, wouldn't it be easier to widen the track gauge to better match the scale? I know of course you would also have to widen the gauge of all axles on any train but that seems a bit more feasible from some of the cars and locos I have looked at... but I could be totally wrong here.
If anything it is just a thought, that has probably been addressed already but I haven't really seen any about it...
I had thought about handlaying track in the future and thought it would be easier to tackle that way...
it seems that MTH is probably the strongest contestant in G scale and they are definitely a good choice when it comes to transition era. But it seems USA trains (and the now deceased) Aristo have the market in Modern era trains and they only offer 1:29...
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if anything it'd be good for Windows...
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Rock Plow for KCS GP38-2
in Kitbashing & Model Making
Posted
You are amazing!
I'll probably need two just in case.
I'll pm you for payment details.
Is there anything that I'd have to do to prep it for paint besides sand it?