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  3. Yes, I am using two connectors. It will go up to 95 here some days and the other day, it was 36. Hope this does the job. Bob.
  4. That looks like a good idea. I bought the SVRR rail clamps and they should do the job. Kind of pricey, 8.00 a pair, but I always think of how much trouble it would be to have to make them, I will pay the 8 bucks. Bob.
  5. While aligning the parts, (should have done it long before now) realized I had left out this important part of the build in the previous posts. Matching the roof and the body of the car so it flows as one at any angle and in critical sun light. First and third are looking down the length of the car. LiG
  6. Hi, one more way... https://www.massoth.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/GB_0417_Schienenverbinder_Code_250.pdf https://www.modell-werkstatt.de/profil-adapter-code250/332
  7. Walli thank you, would be much appreciated. LiG
  8. Bob, don't know where to start! I'm an old 'motor head' as we used to be called in the early 60's, love cars, bikes, damn near anything moves using pistons, gears tires etc. Reach 74 next month and still service my truck (what doesn't need a computer) and old Harley, can do anything with a wrench on that. Not so good at body work, but certainly appreciate the look and beauty of it. Track expander: seeing the pics of your layout you most likely will need both expanders. Here in Joisey my Al track in summer expands the whole inch, the SS expands to less than 3/4". I had one full year of seasons before I put them in, everything got totally out of alignment, and absolutely no movement since. Keep up the great work on both the projects. LiG
  9. Nick, I will sneak in some pictures. Not too much to look at because they would look like an exploded view, everything is apart for painting. I has been a while since I have done any body work, and this is a challenge because the work has to be really block sanded because I am painting this car black and black shows everything. I am using poly-urethane without clear, so after it is painted, I will have to polish to a shiny surface. Bob.
  10. Nice train Jerry, maybe someday I will put a freight train on my tracks instead of all passenger, nice job. Bob.
  11. Yes Sean, it was worth the hassle. I can't think of any other way to handle the heat expansion of the tracks without using these track expansion sections, should work well. I am waiting for some adapter connectors from SSVR, they had to make some more. These expansion sections are code 332 and my tracks are code 250. Bob.
  12. Oh, did I forget to mention the layout Sean? Well, I am waiting for some track connectors to install the expansion sections that I bought from the German store. I am using code 250 and the sections they sent me are code 332, so I had to order the Sunset Valley RR adapter connectors. He was out of them, so they are making some more. So, nothing to tell about the layout until I get the parts to finish the layout. I am now mulling over the task on how to mask the windows on the roof of the observation car and will keep updating. Here is a picture of the expansion section. It appears that it will absorb about 1/2 inch of expansion. I am using two per track. Bob.
  13. grr, great observations, food for thought. I wasn't sure what what the 'head end' of the car, I'll go with that. LiG
  14. Bob, keep us updated on the Obs car, wish there were a subject category for auto cars! That caddy sounds like a great project. LiG
  15. I am starting another Superliner car because sometimes it is too cold to work on the 37 Cadillac in the garage. This will be a slow build, but I will post updates. I just ordered some more urethane, have to make some more parts. Bob.
  16. Looking at the US Mail end of the car at least it got the 'headend' -- must have been letters only since Baggage and Wells Fargo had the biggest doorway!
  17. Jerry, I like trying different things, and you are going to teach me another one. LiG
  18. Good fit there Nick! Shows amazing skill.
  19. grr7315, thank you. Having fun trying different things. LiG
  20. Awesome build, just re-read all pages of the build!
  21. Found this one line they have dozens of sounds, check them out, Bill https://www.ittproducts.com/GL.html
  22. I'm trying something different with the doors. Made them separately with frame surrounding the door and frame surrounding the window opening. Marked locations and removed the area on the car where the clear will ultimately go inside. So far so good.
  23. Earlier
  24. Time to get back to work on Old Joe. With the Christmas crowd gone and the stuff put away figured it was time to get back to the construction of Old Joe. Never really stopped work but had only been piddling with guests here and medical issues, I had painted the engineer/fireman, and weathered the engine a little. Got tied up with the LSC MIK challenge but think I can do both just have to do a little juggling. Yesterday I got the new motor installed in the motor block and got the block reinstalled in the chassis which allowed me to start assembly of the boiler, side tanks and cab with wood chute. At the same time I ran wiring from the front head light back to the rear along with the motor wires. When I got done I powered it up on the roller bearings and it runs like a champ. The firewood bunker is real neat as it just slides on to the back of the cab and is all hollow back there leaving enough room to make up the wiring which I still have to do. Placed the engineer/fireman in the cab and he looks great, more to come, Bill
  25. I'm guessing that would fall under the category of a switching power supply. Assuming it isn't PWM or PWC (which I bet it isn't) then yes you should be able to use safely and would say give it a try. Just note the possible inherent issues with those types of power supplies. http://www.rayman4449.com/DCS_Tips.htm#Type_of_Power_Supply for more info
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