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Rayman4449

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    Track radius

    in Track & Layout

    Posted

    For reference, the details on LGB and Piko R* values (which are different)

     

    Track Curves - LGB:

    From LGB's web site (in terms of diameter, not radius)

    https://www.lgb.com/fileadmin/media/lgb/produkte/produktinformationen/LGB_Gleissystem-Info.pdf - LGB website

        - https://www.lgb.com/products/product-information/overview-of-the-track-system/

    Direct link: LGB_Curve_Calculations.pdf

     


    R1 = 600 mm (Radius) / 1200 mm (Diameter)
    R2 = 780 mm (Radius) / 1560 mm (Diameter)
    R3 = 1195 mm (Radius) / 2390 mm (Diameter)
    R5 = 2320 mm (Radius) / 4640 mm (Diameter)

    Translated into imperial:

    R1 = 23.6 inches (Radius) (1.97 ft) / 47.2" (Diameter) (3.93 ft)
    R2 = 30.7 inches (Radius) (2.56 ft) / 61.4" (Diameter) (5.12 ft)
    R3 = 47.05 inches (Radius) (3.92 ft) / 94.1" (Diameter) (7.84 ft)
    R5 = 91.35 inches (Radius) (7.61 ft) / 182.7" (Diameter) (15.23 ft)

     

     

    Track Curves - Piko

            Piko website: https://www.piko-america.com/collections/g-scale-g-track  (see R curve & MM values listed on each curve)


    R1 = 600 mm (Radius) / 1200 mm (Diameter)
    R2 =  ??mm  (Note:  MTH notes R2=1560mm/61.5 inch/5.125 ft - Diameter)
    R3 = 920 mm (Radius) / 1840 mm (Diameter)
    R5 = 1240 mm (Radius) / 2480 mm (Diameter)

    R7 = 1560 mm (Radius) / 3120 mm (Diameter)

    Translated into imperial:

    R1 = 23.6 inches (Radius) (1.97 ft) / 47.2 inches (Diameter) (3.93 ft)
    R2 = ??  (Note:  MTH notes R2=1560mm/61.5 inch/5.125 ft - Diameter)
    R3 = 36.22 inches (Radius) (3.02 ft) / 72.44 inches (Diameter) (6.04 ft)
    R5 = 48.82 inches (Radius) (4.07 ft) / 97.64 inches (Diameter) (8.14 ft)

    R7 = 61.42 inches (Radius) (5.12 ft) / 122.84 inches (Diameter) (10.24 ft)

     

    Track radius

    in Track & Layout

    Posted

    10ft diam is a good minimum to go with on the MTH One Gauge Big Boy.  As a general note to others reading, keep in mind that any stated minimum diameter curve (like 8ft in this case) that an engine is supposed to be able to take, doesnt mean it might not struggle/bind going through a curve that tight.  So going with curves wider than the minimum is a wise move to avoid issues.

     

    I would avoid super elevating your track.  In the real world they are trying to compensate for heavy weight loaded higher in the cars to compensate for that tendency tip over towards the outside of the curve if you go around a curve to fast.  In the model train world you have the exact opposite risk.  In really long & heavy G scale trains, the cars are relatively light weight and you be more apt to pull them off on the inside of the curve because so much force is exerted on the cars in the curve itself that they will lift off the track.  So super-elevating your track to the inside only stands to make that risk worse.  I would just go with as level a track as possible.   Unless you plan to run shorter trains at super high speeds then I would leave them flat.

    USA Trains NW2 Cow/Calf Power Pickup

    in Locomotives

    Posted

    USA Trains diesel motor blocks use to methods.  one is they have a small stainless steel rod that touches the axle (inside the motorblock) so that gets power from the wheel, then they use power pickup shoes/sliders that slide against the top of the rail.

     

    So basically those wheels with traction tires wont be effective in pickup power but the other metal wheels and sliders make up for it.  

    Big Boy proper power supply

    in Locomotives

    Posted

    Rollers are where you can put the engine on the track but have rollers under that the engine sit on that allow you to run the engine wheels while engine stays in same place on the track.  

     

    If you just want lights and sound, then you can go with a fixed voltage power supply,  If you want to go with rollers then you will really need to go with a power supply with variable output that will likely be more expensive (just FYI)

    Inside The USA Trains FEF-3

    in Locomotives

    Posted

    Thank you for sharing the detail info!  This info sharing led me to find that the 2 FEFs sent to me so far have had the short screw issue that holds the front of the main frame to the lower part of the boiler.  So I was able to help prevent some major damage if that frame cracked and fell out only being held by rear screws.

 
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