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About Rayman4449

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    Gardner, KS

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  1. Great set of cars, goes right along with the American Freedom theme Wonder how these would look with the MTH GS4 freedom engine. I'm guessing the cars will be a little big.
  2. Old turbine tender waiting for rebuild to join the other three tenders.
  3. New number plate for the 4014 on display at the Cheyenne shop.
  4. Very good to hear On the fuses, the new models are made to be much more durable but I am still adding them for my customers as a precaution. I would discourage customers from modifying their new engines that are under the warranty period. For now if you are running the engine by itself i would run with a 3, 4 or 5amp fuse as the fuse between the power supply and the layout as the precaution. After the year is up and you want to add them to the engine then by all means do so.
  5. I recommend trying to shim the #1 axle on the rear engine set as noted here: http://www.rayman4449.com/MTH_Big_Boy_mods.htm#Slider_shoes_causing_shorts_on_Cross-overs (see section about shimming axles) Try that, if still does not work try shimming axle #2 but it sounds like #1. I can't see the engine in operation so cant tell if there is anything else going on. I test all my engines before shipping to catch as many issues as possible before the customer gets them.
  6. Sure thing. Yes that's correct, #1 driver is the first axle set from the front of the engine on each engine set. So front engine set has drivers #1 thru 4 and the rear engine set has drivers #1 thru 4. Axles #1 and 2 are what I would focus on but make sure all the rod screws are tight. Again, be VERY careful and do not over tighten or your risk snapping one off. On picking the engine up I do it two way depending on the situation and where I'm positioned... One is like you said, to lift from under the front of the boiler and then other hand lifting up on inside-top of the cab. Another way is to rock the engine to one side by grabbing/pushing via the cab then get your fingers under the front engine set and support the front engine set from underneath.
  7. The up and down travel is part of the drivers independent sprung suspension. The side to side play is normal and like you said is what allows it to take such tight curves. R3 equates to an 8ft diameter which the absolute minimum the engine can possible navigate . One thing I have seen is where the curves aren't completely uniform where some parts are wider diam and some are tighter diam so that can come into play as well. That said, running on an 8ft curve is still very tight for that engine regardless of what the published minimum is so the#1 axle not being flush in the curve may be part of a symptom of that. I don't have a measurement on linkage spacing to provide, when the rod screws are tightened down they will all appear uniform. If you have one loose you will know it.
  8. Have you identified which engine set is binding? Take the engine off the track and put on work bench and make sure ever single rod screw is screwed into the driver all the way and snugly. (Focus attention on the #1 and #2 driver rod screws on both sides of the engine). If you have to tighten them be careful to not over-tighten.
  9. All other posts moved. Thanks
  10. Also, if you start another thread about the smoking whistle I'll move these posts and discussion there.
  11. On the right angle curves, in theory there might be some reduction but what you are showing there for a restriction will have far more impact. I see this as degrees of improvement to get it where it's considered satisfactory and addressing that tube for sure will be the main focus. I would not have expected to see that at all.
  12. I see what you are saying now, wow I'll be damn! I would have never expected to see that at all! I will get a stock ordered from MTH and send you a replacement when they come in. Once all the engines are finished assembly overseas then MTH will have replacement parts in-stock so it will probably be a bit longer.
  13. Hi, thank you on the recommendation on the part Joe. On this one I am currently out of stock (an MTH is also due to an inventory count issue) (I've given the head parts guy a heads up that they need to get more of these ordered) GRR7315: Are you saying that you can get the motor spinning under electric power but as soon as you apply friction with your finger it stops? Is it running intermittent or just seems extremely weak? If very weak then I would replace it and take Robert's very kind offer on his motor.
  14. I think you're doing the right thing with a dog bone and avoiding the reversing loop. The reversing loops aren't necessary and the simpler you keep everything the better off you will be long term. Nothing would be worse than having a layout built for a dog bone and have reversing loop electronics fail for some reason rendering that loop unusable. While you may never have issues, when you are outdoors you can never be sure and you would always have that as some possibility as something that could go wrong. To me it is a fundamental rule to keep things as simple as possible and minimize points or possible failure or problems. On 2 rail (which is what we have in G scale) because the MTH PS2 G scale engines have a polarity switch on the engine you dont have to worry about certain polarity to a specific rail. The only exception to that is the original production MTH One Gauge Challengers, those didn't include a polarity switch so if those are kept as PS2 then you would have to have + DC power to the left side (Fireman side) of the engine. Because of this those One Gauge Challengers are good candidates to upgrade to PS3 which eliminates the need for a polarity switch. For One gauge, PS3 has a number of important upgrades for us that makes it a worthwhile upgrade. On the power supplies, since you already have the USA Trains power packs, start with them and see how it goes. If for some reason you have issues you can always replace them. If it's something you are willing to do down the road I think moving to a Bridgewerks would be a good idea. Right now you have a lot going on and a lot of expenditures to deal with.
  15. Looks like you will have a beautiful layout. Star-wiring can be beneficial in AC or DC when you get into the larger layouts. (have that noted on Tips page). If you have two transformers keep both rails isolated not just one. Another point is if you flip polarity on DC your rail polarity will be reversed. (diff from AC power running).