rbrown7713

Loco Larry, don't feel bad, it happens to the best of us.  Happens to me all of the time.  Nice work, keep it up. Bob.

Challenger for sale.  No electronics, no lights.  Has motors.  Ran well before taking out the electronics.  No electric wipers on wheels as it was converted to battery.  As is,   600.00.  plus shipping.   Paypal. email:  rbrown77138@verizon.net         phone:  813-753-8961      Bob.

You said motors, there is only one small motor, I believe that it is a Northwest Shortline motor, 28mm, by 40mm. There are two Hudson gear  boxes that are modified to a straight shaft and I don't know the ratios. The wheels do not have traction rubbers. You have me wondering about the amp draw, so I am going to install an ammeter so we can see what is happening.  The motor is powering all eight wheels, so all eight are pulling at the same time. I believe many more cars can be added. The 3  FAM cars weigh 20lbs. each. The loco weighs 22 lbs., and all cars have bearings. Bob.

Here is a video of the FAM cars pulled by the T1. Bob.

Yes, whenever I make a mold for a new truck, I always design into the mold a hole for the bearing and then, I can just slip the bearing into it. Bob.

Bearings make a big difference and also the electrical pickups also cause drag. I might remove the pickups on the FAMS to further reduce drag, but then I would have to add batteries and a switch, or go easy peasy, but what a job that would be.  Bob.

I sat the first car down on the track and evidently I have a slight grade on the layout and it started to roll away, so very smooth and quiet.  Even thought they are heavy, any loco will be able to pull them easily. Bob.

Thanks Joe, I guess I will have to build some more cars like these, I have the molds, but not the time.  Maybe next year.  I can't afford to buy any more. Would look nice behind some E7s, or E8s. Bob.

Here are the Fine Art Model cars outside, probably for the first time on a track outside.  You are looking at about 60lbs. of brass sitting there.  Bob.

Thanks Sean. Most of the looking real is attributed to the FAM cars, but I tried to make the diaphragms as real as I could.  The next test is to run them around curves, judging from the Superliner type diaphragms, these should do just fine. Bob.

This is the look that I am after. Bob.

Here they are finished. Bob.

These Fine Art Model cars are very close coupled and require more scale diaphragms to work properly and this is what I am using. And these work as they should. One down four to go. Bob.

I am after the same thing. In contact diaphragms that flex and look scale.  I don't do 3d printers, so the flex part on my diaphragms are cloth and are flexible. On my Superliners, the diaphragms are rigid and mounted on coupler springs and work very well while still looking scale.  They are much easier to construct.  These cloth scale diaphragms are much more labor intensive but they do look good.  I am finishing up the mounting of the diaphragms and will post pictures shortly. Bob.

I am posting this tutorial in this post also. Bob.

Here is a tutorial of the making of the diaphragms.  I think I posted this before, but here it is again. Bob.   

Here is one of the 5 diaphragms that I made for the FAM cars. Note the shiny surface, makes it nice to go around curves. Bob.

Here is one of the diaphragms that will go on the FAM cars. Note the smooth shiny surface, makes for easy sliding around corners.  Lots of work still to do. Bob.

For what it is worth, I will relate my experience with the diaphragms that I used on the Superliners and also the diaphragms that I am using on my Pullmans.  What I have found is that when rounding curves, they need to slide back and forth, so I, myself would not think of magnets, better to let them slide back and forth.  In fact, the smoother the diaphragm plates the better.  I am also, for that reason, the plates that contact one another, I am making them a solid plate to limit hangups in the curves.  When the cars are coupled, you won't be able to see that they are solid and not an open door. Bob.

The Fine Art Models pullmans have the full width diaphragms and they are too difficult to repair  so I am making the traditional ones to replace them. I have also found out if these are to be operational, meaning, actually in contact with each other, it is better to leave the center door section in them so that when going around a curve they slide past one another instead of getting jammed.  Here is the start of them, more pictures to come. I used a cutter on the cnc mill to make them. Bob.

I have decided to sell them again.  I have done some repairs on them and should be good to go. Who ever buys them will have to pick them up in Seffner Fl.   900.  

Sounds like a good idea to me.

Thanks again Joe.  I probably wouldn't have even thought of making one if it wasn't for the fact that I have a CNC Bridgeport mill.  It made it fairly easy to make the rods and stuff. I am going to go light on the trains for a while.  I do have a few projects having to do with trains, but my plans are to put the 1937 Cadillac together and to work on trains in my spare time.  Bob.

Coming from you, that is a great compliment. Thanks Joe.  I keep the ballast to a minimum as the track moves so much because of the large temperature differences here in Florida. The tracks move alot. Bob.

One last video, backing the T1 into the shed.