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rbrown7713

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  1. The large window mold came out so good, I will do the small window frame version, making it easier for me. I guess my learning curve is very slow, but, I will eventually get there. Bob.
  2. Here is the mold in silicone copied from the aluminum half. Looks like it is a good match and my troubles are over. Bob.
  3. Thank you for the encouragement, it helps. I have been fighting the making of these window frames for a while. Sooner or later, I will get it right. I just poured the second mold out of silicone and I hope this time I can get a good part out of it. It is my fault. In the beginning, when I machined the mold out of aluminum, I didn't use a tapered flat mill. Should have been about 2 degrees taper. Had I done that, I wouldn't be having this problem. I am almost sure, with the other half of the mold being silicone, this will solve my problem. I, and everybody else, will know in a couple of days. Bob.
  4. Beautiful Jerry, didn't know you were into live steam. Bob.
  5. I poured the first part of the silicone mold and it came out perfect, now for the second part, should work. And now I should be able to make some near perfect window frames easily. Bob.
  6. Thanks, but I don't know if I can make these molds work. I am getting mold lock on one side and because of that when I try to remove them, they are destroyed. I am approaching it from another direction. I am attempting to make one side of the mold out of silicone, maybe that will help, who knows, Bob.
  7. Thanks Jerry and Sean. Here is the first window installed, many, many to go. Bob.
  8. Here is what I have done so far, next some couplers, trucks, and then the window frames, if I can make them work. Bob.
  9. Redneck, yes, genius, no, but thanks. I put the fan in it today and it helps a little. It cycles good enough for my purposes for curing. Putting it together now, pictures coming. Bob.
  10. I am going to share my building of an epoxy curing oven. The window frames of the Superliner are very delicate and when I attempt to scrape the flashing off of them, sometimes I crack them. I bought some stronger epoxy and that should help. I also found out that If I post cure this epoxy, it gains 30% more hardness. That is where the curing oven comes in. I bought some electronics, a pid controller, spent 110.00 on them and then had the idea that I could make a simpler setup. I bought a toaster oven, trimmed a wooden box to fit snuggly against the oven. On the other end of the box is a door, so this is how it works. I only need to bring the temp up to 120 deg. F. I turn on the oven to low and with two probes, I can see the temp. at both ends of the box. So far, there is a 9 deg. difference because of the distance from the oven. I regulate the temp. by opening the door at the end and slightly moving the stove from the box and have stabilized the temps. at 120 and 129. I am now adding a little fan to circulate the air to get the two temps. closer. I am also going to put an additional temp. probe in the mold itself, to make sure that I actually get 120 degrees to the parts. Here is a picture of what I have so far and will update in the next few days. Bob.
  11. Here is a top view of how it would look in a tight turn. Just a little more realism doesn't hurt. Bob.
  12. Thanks Jerry. By using these, before, useless hook and loop couplers, makes use of these springs. They work well, and allows one to make moving diaphragms from solid ones, rather than using cloth or rubber. Bob.
  13. Hello Jerry, yea, too cold to work in the garage on the Cadillac, so I am working on the observation car in the warmth. Here is the type of diaphragm that I will use on the superliner cars. This will allow a closer coupling of the cars to look more realistic, Bob.
  14. Here is the roof painted and I forgot to say that this is a 1:32 scale observation car.
  15. Yes, I am using two connectors. It will go up to 95 here some days and the other day, it was 36. Hope this does the job. Bob.

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