Hello Chuck, as a model railroader you need patience, in the past everything was always available, the times are over. Improvisation is in demand again. Or a compromise, your locomotive looks very good.
No problem, I guess... Split axis, the socket above it is torn, you made a new one... If so, why did they do it? Only for insulating, anyway, the main thing is that you get the right distance.
Hi Nick, Truck Wheels, you mean the tender and also the pilot axle in front...? Anyway, that can certainly be postponed. I attach a small letter , amazing how the measurements have changed over the years.
Hope it helps you
Hello Nick, there are always losses, the main thing is that the Mikado runs, the little thing you will certainly get repaired. In the picture, the wheel tires look like brass, or is that an optical illusion…
With feeling in the fingertips everything goes better, that looks very good, I think goal achieved, patient lives. I hadn't seen the guide rails.
Great Work
Is there a real model for the tankers, I can't find anything. Considering that the models are made very simple, the price is more than sporty. I have a lot of them and I like them very much. I like a real paint job better, but I probably don't understand the background, anyway, I think it's a pity.
I have provided for bad times, these two from 2005-7 are still originally packed, new.
Hello Nick, I do not understand everything in detail what you write, I think the axes are without side play so that the machine does not lurch. Many manufacturers do this, but everyone does it differently.
Ok, the third hand is not needed, which also saves a sticking plaster for the fingers. Please do not forget the constant measuring, gone is gone... or as they say here, cut twice and still too short....
So that there are no misunderstandings, my tooth could not be saved, but I am full of confidence for the Mikado. My view of the problem is only theoretical, I am always happy when it works.
Last week I went to the dentist, the same noise, only the drill was slightly smaller than yours... I think the drive should run constantly slowly, the grinder fast. It looks as expected...
Try a rubber friction wheel. This drives the wheel you want to grind. That's what else comes to mind. A slow-running gear motor with a rubber disc as wide as the tread. From the inside then a Dremel with grinding wheel.... Would have to work without something defective. The Hudson is from MTH.
Good idea, grinding is a good alternative. At that time I jacked up my Hudson and reduced the flanges with the engine running and a file. The chips fall away downwards. This saves a lot of work. Of course, you have to drive the axle from the outside, that will work.
If the wheels sit on a cone, this is not possible. I don't know the Mikado, but it is probably that the technology is the same as the engines of the diesel. The only thing that helps is the lathe. But then the coating is gone inside and it can rust.
Sounds good, my impression is smooth, maybe it's the wheelsets that cause problems. It may be that these are a bit narrow, so less than 40 mm inner dimensions. You say back to back space. Aristo is a candidate for such deviations. I think you'll get a handle on this.
Hi Sean, I saw this earlier on your channel, I was amazed. I thought in your area is 12 months summer, we have the garden already clean for the coming winter.
Hi Nick, I was here, this is an old movie, my grandfather had the same job. In the past, there was even a railway underground, narrow gauge, first electric, later with small diesel locomotives. I still saw them, parked in a shed. The machine with the number 88 was mine, which lasted 17 years, a drill, 7m long holes with 60 mm diameter.
Aristo LS Mike
in Live Steam
Posted
Good Morning,
Yes that looks better, an increase would be a parallel ride with camera....the Mikado runs well.
Greets
Jan