Jerry, there's one on Ebay for $75.00 starting. Its Penn but there is no reason you couldn't repaint it using TC paint. I've got the decals and stripes. Easy to strip.
Jens, you're not dreaming!!!! I'd like to be kept up on this subject, so let me give you my 2 cents worth. Put me down for a set of them, but they must be scale, plated, and with the correct trucks. I honestly think you could sell about 20 or more sets of these. This could offset your investment by having everyone serious about this to put down a deposit. Let's see if any other Sante Fe nuts out there are willing to "step up to the plate".
Jan, your -8's are beautiful. Look like the real thing. Great work. Could you tell us how you changed the wheels. Did you use NWSL or MTH replacement wheels? Thanks for the pictures, Larry
Wow! The engine is incredible. You inspire us all with work like that. Could you please post a picture of the mold you used to produce the high hood nose. Thanks Larry
Here's my "two cents worth" on why I remove the MTH paint. They put so much paint on the model that it covers up all the small detail. When I stripped my first F-7A, I was shocked to find some of the best detail I had ever seen on a plastic model. They must have paid a ton of money for that tooling, only to be covered up with several coats of really thick paint. After you remove the factory paint and airbush a thin coat of whatever paint you use, you have a model that has tons of correct detail you can not find anywhere else. Most plastic models of any scale, do not even come close to the detail on the MTH models. The caboose is another example of a really fine model covered up by tons of paint.
Well its not CDS, I checked their list and nothing even close. So I'll take Jerry's suggestion and contact Ozark Miniatures and see if they have a listing for what's available from Larry Larsens decals. Thanks for answers, I wouldn't have tried either one of these two. That's why this forum is so great. Larry
I need some help from this group. Several years ago I made a Union Pacific E-8 set using these dry transfers. I wish to make another "B" unit to run with the 2 powered units I have. I found this label in with all my other "dry-transfers" but can't find who made it. Does anyone have any idea who might have made these. Thanks
Chuck, really nice job. Are you going to use the stock handrails? Since you're doing this right, several years ago I cast alumilite frames for these which allows you to use NWSL powered trucks under them. If you ever decide to change out the power trucks let me know. Its alot of work, but you'll have a very nice running 1/32nd scale GP-9 when finished. Larry
Wonderful amount of information here. The research done by Chuck and Grant-Kerr is valuable to every G-scale person. I'd like to show you what I use and I've been doing it this way for 25 years. I stick to one brand of wheelsets that work for me. In my case I use only Gary Raymond metal wheels RS133 or RS136. I've found they run forever and really stay on the track. The picture is from a set of wheels that must have a zillion miles on them.
Next I check every wheelset using the "Old Pullman" gauge. This gauge is almost Identical to the H.O. NMRA gauge. Alway add a small drop of glue on the axle behind the wheel. You can see it in the picture.
The other side of the gauge is for checking track gauge and flangeway clearance.
I use "Old Pullman" turnouts and Micro Engineering track. I have never found one switch or piece of track that was "out of gauge". The reason I go to all this trouble is because I LIKE TO RUN TRAINS. I've found this forum to be wealth of valuable information and I'm so glad we have it. Larry
Joe, I couldn't agree with you more. I use standard ABS sheet and glue the new mount to the frame using ABS black glue from home depot. The glue bonds like concrete to the MTH frame, so make sure you've got it close when you bond it in place.. You can now install KD820's, or whatever coupler you like, using (2) 4-40 screws. Just drill and trap the new mount.. I don't like the KD adapter that MTH provides. It causes the engines to be coupled way too far apart. Larry
Bob, just impressive. The sound is just perfect for an E-8 set. How long do you think the batteries will last? Is the B unit a slave to the A unit? Looks like it will pull several cars. Keep up the good work, Larry
This is incredible!! I'll take two! What sound file did you use? Have you been able to get it into run 8 yet? I'm looking forward to the next video. If this doesn't motivate me, what will? Good work rbrown7713.
Holy Cow, to say I'm impressed is a hugh understatement. Did you "eyeball" the stripe location or have a drawing to go from. Your work is just incredible. Please keep us up to date on your projects. Larry
Yes St Charles did one, but WOW BIG BUCKS !!!!! Here's what you need to look for. The unit was built by Ralph Brown in the 80's. It was powered by NWSL E-unit trucks and was very close to scale (1/32nd). I don't know how many he produced, but I'd guess 10 to 20. I have only a guess as to what they cost new (maybe $700 or more), so you can see what a deal they are today. Keep your eye open on the "bay" and good luck.
I've got the Milwaukee Road caboose book. If you need any pictures, I'll scan them for you. I was going to do a Milwaukee caboose, but the truck Sideframes scared me away.Other than that, it should be a very easy job. Good old Ribside Orange caboose. You've got me thinking. Larry
Good job of greasing them Jerry. If you ever wear out an axle bushing, I've got about 50 of them. I thought they would wear out quickly, so I bought a bunch. So far in 10 years I haven't had to replace any. Put a drop of plastic compatible oil on each bushing where the axle goes thru it. (LaBelle 102 works well). How's the Scalecoat Union Pacific yellow comming. Can't wait to see pictures of the F unit in Union Pacific collors. Larry
Here's an AD for the very rare Garich Light Transport E8, E9 taken from Outdoor Railroader Jan 1996. Looks like he was about 18 years ahead of his time.
Du-bousquetaire, there are two ways to get a 1/32nd scale E8 or E9. Number one, build it using either Great Tains or MTH F unit shells. Both come up on E-bay once in awhile. The second way is to locate one of the E8's that Garich Light Transport produced in the early 90's. They are as rare as "hens teeth" but they do show up once in awhile. One just sold on Ebay for a very low price. They are worth over $500.00 in any condition. Just have an active search going on ebay for "g scale-other-E8, E9". If you decide to go the kit-bash way, don't worry about the truck frames. I've made molds of them and will be happy to make you a set. If I can help in any way, just let me know. Larry
I've finished adding the brake details to one sideframe for my NWSL powered Union Pacific E units. It turned out to be easy to cast the parts and more work than I care to do to install them. They do look nice, tell me what you think. Is it worth it? Larry
Bart, scalecoat rinse away will remove it in big sheets. 12 to 24 hours soaking, and it just floats off doing no damage to MTH shells. You can use the product over and over again. Just run it through a coffee filter as you pour it back in the bottle. Scalecoat rinse away is sold by most hobbyshops. Larry
O.K., the Gp-7's low nose are Lionel GP20's. But You got me on the Milwaukee Road SW900 (Could be a NW2????) Who makes it and what poweres it? It looks to be scale. Did someone build it for you?? Gotta know, Larry
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WANTED: MTH gauge 1 UP observation car.
in For Sale / Wanted / Trade
Posted
Jerry, there's one on Ebay for $75.00 starting. Its Penn but there is no reason you couldn't repaint it using TC paint. I've got the decals and stripes. Easy to strip.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTH-RAIL-KING-G-1-GUAGE-70-68023-PENN-STREAMLINE-OBSERVATION-CAR-NRFB-W-SHIPPER-/121510787019?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item1c4a9b77cb
Larry