xl_special Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I've been building some SP G scale engines using the MTH F7's as starting points. For those of us that came to G scale by way of H.O., the MTH egines are very similar to the Highliner shells. They are componet based, meaning you can replace just about everything on the shell. If you wanted a freight version and they model you owned had the steam generator pipes on the roof, You could just replace it with a part from another body. Its too bad MTH didn't catch on to this fact and offer all the componets as parts. Anyway, this engine has NWSL wheels and was made by splicing two F7 shells together. It will be painted in scalet and grey (Bloody Nose) paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Very nice work XL will be looking forward to seeing the progress on it. Did you keep the MTH motor blocks and just replace the wheels themselves or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I keep the MTH trucks, gears etc. and replace the wheels with NWSL. You can get these wheels in bulk in 3 different wheel contours. The MTH trucks are perfect except the wheels, which are very toy-like. I've attached a picture of everything I use, except for the cheap $100.00 drill press from ACE. Press the whells and bushing off the MTH axles using the NWSL tool, then press the MTH bushings from the MTH wheels. (I use a small rivet here, roundhead) you'll use these bushings again. Now ream the NWSL wheels to .3235 Dia. Be careful to get the wheels centered when you ream them. Now press the saved MTH bushings (using your cheapo ACE drill press) into the NWSL wheels of your choice. This will give you the exact interference that MTH designed into their trucks using the old bushings. You can now press the MTH axle assemblies into the NWSL wheels with the MTH bushings installed. Use care here, and make sure you are pressing them in at 90 degress to the wheel face. I set all my whells to "Old Pullman" standards, but you could use any gauge here. Not only do my MTH engines look better, they run much better thru switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Could you show a picture of the finished job? I'd like to see it with better wheel profile. I may do the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 I've attached a picture of one of my freight engines with the NWSL wheel conversion. If you have any fears about reaming out the NWSL wheels to .3235 inside dia. you might ask them to deliver the wheels with this configuration. They have always been willing to help me with any special work I needed done. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thank you for the picture! Looks good! I wonder how she'd track through my aristo switches?? Did U remove the sliders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Here's the stock wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Yes, I removed the sliders. I've had no trouble with electrical pickup just using the wipers on the inside face of the wheels. I think it depends on how dirty or clean your track is (and mine is always dirty). As far as for tracking thru a turnout, there are some turnouts where the outside edge of the oversize flange, actually carries the weight of the locomotive thru the frog. I'm not really too familiar with all the manufactures and how their turnouts are designed. I use Gary Raymond metal wheels on all my rolling stock. They have a flange detail that is almost exactly like NWSL. From the looks of the picture above, it appears you are using Nickel Silver .250, is it MicroEngineering? I'd say the least expensive way to find out, is to order a set of scale wheels, install them on a piece of rolling stock and see how the scale flange tracks thru your turnouts. If you already have replaced the stock wheels on your rolling stock, and they don't derail all over the place, you should have no trouble with the locomotives. Good Luck PS. 2 really nice CNW units. I've kitbashed some Aristo Evans boxcars to 1/32nd scale.Would you like me to post a picture of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Na, that's Aristo stainless 132. I think I have a couple cars with his wheels. They derailed on switches until I spread them out a bit and added weight. Sometimes I'm leary of messing with stuff. Yes, always post pictures!!! Love them. I want to start making more modern stuff from scratch or kit bashed. It seems there's a lot of stuff missing. Would love some high cubes and Automax's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hi xl_special: Congratulation, you did a beautiful job. I am thinking of doing the same thing on my PRR F3 converting them to FP7 so that they would be correct for the livery (all other Pennsy F3-F7 where brunswick loco enamel + one buff stripe). And am very interested in seeing how it is done could you show us a few work in progress photos to see where to cut and splice, primarily as I have already done this type of work succesfully. I agree the modular nature of the shell is a great aid in doing this. I am using some Comstock Rail wheelsets on some of my cars since a year and they haven't derailed at all, the newer ones are near finescale with 5MM thread and wheel width and less than 1,5mm flanges. One of my track is homemade on individual wood ties and the other is Tenmille flat bottom. I use 3,35 meter minimum radius and N°8 pointwork nearly everywhere on the pike. Never had a derailment. On my MTH GG1 I have turned down the flanges to 0.9mm and regaged the wheels to 40mm back to back and ditto, no derailments ever. This is on a garden pike with scale rail (on concrete base). My cars are MDC and they have no added weights. This is one of the wonderfull advantages that wide radius brings, and out in the great outdoors why use small radius? I would like to see the Aristo Evans box car converted to 1/32 scale. Take care Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 The FP-7A was made from plans in the Summer issue of SP Trainline, page 31. The plans are done in H.O. scale but it was very easy to convert to #1 gauge. If you don't have a copy of this issue, send me an email ltrumbull1@gmail.com and I'll scan the article and send it as an attachment. Let's see some pictures of what you're doing. Its good to see that someone else is modeling in scale. My previous outdoor railroad was also built using a concrete base under the track. The layout I'm building now is all inside, this is because it either rains or snows here about 350 days a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Hi: I am trying to attach a photo of my line. It's of the Accucraft T1 and my train, made up mostly of David Leech PRR diagram cars + one B60 baggage that is scratch built of aluminum and a Railway express reefer. there is also one J & M 12-1 pullman. a real Pennsy consist reasonably mixed and un matched as compared to some streamliner consists. You are one hundred percent correct about moving inside, with the kind of weather we have had in the last three years I was seriously considering moving to the sunny south to enjoy my garden railway at least 9 months of the year when I retire. Moving inside is a bit simpler. However with live steam being part of the game it is quite a problem for both safety and ventilation reasons. I am interested in doing a pair of FP7 in Pennsylvania, this would help me wait for a 1/32 scale E unit. I wanted to know if you just sliced in a rectangular part of an F unit body then redid the riveted joint strips (covers) or did a staggered joint like on the prototype but quite difficult to do properly. I guess just splicing in a straight joint then carefully filling of what is unnecessary and adding what is, is the simpler (and neater option) though. Well I hope this works posting this photo, lets see what happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Well it didn't work! I will try the second way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Hey it worked! This site is really great! Now I can show what I am up to at the present: A PRR D 78 diner. My method of construction is folded aluminium sheet metal with rivets embossed where appropriate and plates made of old offset sheets for joints under the belt rail (these still remain to be added, at this point). This belt rail was the hardest work to do: making two bands one 1,5 mm. wide and the other around 3mm. wide the full length of the car with a nibling tool and a lot of work to straighten out the result and file it to be as geometrically perfect as possible. folded ends are of two diferent type one angled the other straight, like on the B 60 baggage, floor is 1/43 plywood and the roof is some ex J & M roofs I got from the present owner of J & M. I think I bought his last few ones. Trucks are David Leech it is of course to 1/32 scale. The fun part of all this is that for old timers like me it reminds me of a good old Walthers kit I used to build when I was a teen ager in the USA. I use araldite and small bolts to hold things together the araldite on the ends will be used only at the end of construction. the roof is screwed with mertal screws to strechers inside the body just like in J & M cars there is a fold at the top and bottom of the sides for added rigidity. An aluminum angle is araldited to the inside and the floor is metal screwed to this. The whole is very sturdy yet lightweight, an important feature for the live steamer. This is the fifth car I built using this technique. So far: a French OCEM baggage, a Nord railway of France C11 third class coach, a PRR N5 cabin car a B60 baggage and this. The French baggage fell out of its box from under my arm, survived the crash on a loco depot's concrete floor, was fixed in about a half an hour and is still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 Our internet (CenturyLink) is off more than its on, so I need to catch up a bit. The FP-7A was cut using several cuts to the body to preserve the rivet detail. It was more difficult that way, but provided a better body to work with. The PRR diner is totally incredible. You could sell all you could make, but I know how much work it is to build something like that. You'd have to sell them for about $1000.00 each just to break even for all your time. Its really too bad that someone doesn't see how beautiful these scale cars are and produce them so we could all own one. I'm currently building a Union Pacific dome coach, cutting up three MTH cars in the process. I finally got the window arrangement right, but the dome itself is proving to be a real problem. It looks like you might be using MDC truck frames on your freight equiptment. If you are, I've found a way to add an oil-lite brass bushing in them. It costs about $.80 cents per axle, they roll better and are very quiet. Again, your models are incedible and you've really got me going again. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant-Kerr Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 It looks like you might be using MDC truck frames on your freight equiptment. If you are, I've found a way to add an oil-lite brass bushing in them. It costs about $.80 cents per axle, they roll better and are very quiet. Larry Larry, could you go into some further detail with this please. I have a lot of MDC rolling stock and I am intrigued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 I have also tried to redo the bolster on one of my MDC trucks so as to shorten it and thus reduce the slack between my wheelsets ant the journal (This by the way also increasses the bearing surface inside the plastic journal box too) I use some thick styreen to make up a square block that fils up the end of the truck bolster, I then glue this in, using cyanoacrylate glue and redrill at the tighter width. then I run a metal bolt to hold everything together. So far I have done one truck and am letting it run a while to see if it stands up in time. I use Comstock rail wheel sets, I may change to Garry Raymond just because he does so much for 1/32 scale, keep it in the family. (However the comstock rails wheels are perfect for me) I chemically blacken them, then rince them in water, which makes a rusty film once dried out in the sun, I put a coat of matt varnish to stop the rusting they are naturally weathered. When I retire in a couple of years I may make cars on comission like the diner, as we say in France "that would put some butter in the spinach" and with this technique I can make custom orders or small batches. I would also like to develop some castings of basic stuff: Trucks, brake cylinders and triple valves brake wheels and such. More as an aid to scratchbuilders than as a way to make money. But that's still in the futur. This bushing idea is very good, Do describe it for us so we can do some on our cars also. The FP7 is really a very good job especially since those zig zag cutsaren't easy to do right. On my GG1 I turned down the wheel flanges on my lathe it was quite easy to do, I havent done it on the F3 yet. Ialso lowered the body as much as I could (I would have liked to lower it a couple of mm. more but the flywheels would scratch the shell) and hand filed down the pantographs to prototype size although they are not tubular. I will send a photo. My test outdoors without the pick up shoes was hopeless so I had to put them on again. I use brass soles on them so that I don't have to buy a new set every year... I just bend some shet brass over the MTH one and lock it in with a drop of cyanoacrylate glue. I will try and post a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Forums du-bousquetaire Sign Out View New Content G-Scale Train Forum Forums Members Gallery Blogs Chat G-Scale Train Forum → G-Scale Forums → Locomotives → MTH Kit bashed Southern Pacific FP-7A Post Preview Attached Thumbnails Replying to MTH Kit bashed Southern Pacific FP-7A Post Options Enable emoticons? Enable signature? Follow this topic? Error No file was selected for upload broadway.JPG 321.61 KB Add to Post | Delete Attach Files You can upload up to 4.57MB of files (Max. single file size: 4.57MB) Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9) or Cancel Topic Summary du-bousquetaire Posted Today, 06:13 PM I have also tried to redo the bolster on one of my MDC trucks so as to shorten it and thus reduce the slack between my wheelsets ant the journal (This by the way also increasses the bearing surface inside the plastic journal box too) I use some thick styreen to make up a square block that fils up the end of the truck bolster, I then glue this in, using cyanoacrylate glue and redrill at the tighter width. then I run a metal bolt to hold everything together. So far I have done one truck and am letting it run a while to see if it stands up in time. I use Comstock rail wheel sets, I may change to Garry Raymond just because he does so much for 1/32 scale, keep it in the family. (However the comstock rails wheels are perfect for me) I chemically blacken them, then rince them in water, which makes a rusty film once dried out in the sun, I put a coat of matt varnish to stop the rusting they are naturally weathered. When I retire in a couple of years I may make cars on comission like the diner, as we say in France "that would put some butter in the spinach" and with this technique I can make custom orders or small batches. I would also like to develop some castings of basic stuff: Trucks, brake cylinders and triple valves brake wheels and such. More as an aid to scratchbuilders than as a way to make money. But that's still in the futur. This bushing idea is very good, Do describe it for us so we can do some on our cars also. The FP7 is really a very good job especially since those zig zag cutsaren't easy to do right. On my GG1 I turned down the wheel flanges on my lathe it was quite easy to do, I havent done it on the F3 yet. Ialso lowered the body as much as I could (I would have liked to lower it a couple of mm. more but the flywheels would scratch the shell) and hand filed down the pantographs to prototype size although they are not tubular. I will send a photo. My test outdoors without the pick up shoes was hopeless so I had to put them on again. I use brass soles on them so that I don't have to buy a new set every year... I just bend some shet brass over the MTH one and lock it in with a drop of cyanoacrylate glue. I will try and post a photo. Grant-Kerr Posted Today, 04:01 PM xl_special, on 06 Jul 2013 - 04:34 AM, said: Larry, could you go into some further detail with this please. I have a lot of MDC rolling stock and I am intrigued. It looks like you might be using MDC truck frames on your freight equiptment. If you are, I've found a way to add an oil-lite brass bushing in them. It costs about $.80 cents per axle, they roll better and are very quiet. Larry xl_special Posted Yesterday, 04:34 AM Our internet (CenturyLink) is off more than its on, so I need to catch up a bit. The FP-7A was cut using several cuts to the body to preserve the rivet detail. It was more difficult that way, but provided a better body to work with. The PRR diner is totally incredible. You could sell all you could make, but I know how much work it is to build something like that. You'd have to sell them for about $1000.00 each just to break even for all your time. Its really too bad that someone doesn't see how beautiful these scale cars are and produce them so we could all own one. I'm currently building a Union Pacific dome coach, cutting up three MTH cars in the process. I finally got the window arrangement right, but the dome itself is proving to be a real problem. It looks like you might be using MDC truck frames on your freight equiptment. If you are, I've found a way to add an oil-lite brass bushing in them. It costs about $.80 cents per axle, they roll better and are very quiet. Again, your models are incedible and you've really got me going again. Larry du-bousquetaire Posted 04 July 2013 - 04:06 PM du-bousquetaire Posted 04 July 2013 - 04:02 PM Hey it worked! This site is really great! Now I can show what I am up to at the present: A PRR D 78 diner. My method of construction is folded aluminium sheet metal with rivets embossed where appropriate and plates made of old offset sheets for joints under the belt rail (these still remain to be added, at this point). This belt rail was the hardest work to do: making two bands one 1,5 mm. wide and the other around 3mm. wide the full length of the car with a nibling tool and a lot of work to straighten out the result and file it to be as geometrically perfect as possible. folded ends are of two diferent type one angled the other straight, like on the B 60 baggage, floor is 1/43 plywood and the roof is some ex J & M roofs I got from the present owner of J & M. I think I bought his last few ones. Trucks are David Leech it is of course to 1/32 scale. The fun part of all this is that for old timers like me it reminds me of a good old Walthers kit I used to build when I was a teen ager in the USA. I use araldite and small bolts to hold things together the araldite on the ends will be used only at the end of construction. the roof is screwed with mertal screws to strechers inside the body just like in J & M cars there is a fold at the top and bottom of the sides for added rigidity. An aluminum angle is araldited to the inside and the floor is metal screwed to this. The whole is very sturdy yet lightweight, an important feature for the live steamer. This is the fifth car I built using this technique. So far: a French OCEM baggage, a Nord railway of France C11 third class coach, a PRR N5 cabin car a B60 baggage and this. The French baggage fell out of its box from under my arm, survived the crash on a loco depot's concrete floor, was fixed in about a half an hour and is still going strong. du-bousquetaire Posted 04 July 2013 - 03:16 PM Well it didn't work! I will try the second way... du-bousquetaire Posted 04 July 2013 - 03:07 PM Hi: I am trying to attach a photo of my line. It's of the Accucraft T1 and my train, made up mostly of David Leech PRR diagram cars + one B60 baggage that is scratch built of aluminum and a Railway express reefer. there is also one J & M 12-1 pullman. a real Pennsy consist reasonably mixed and un matched as compared to some streamliner consists. You are one hundred percent correct about moving inside, with the kind of weather we have had in the last three years I was seriously considering moving to the sunny south to enjoy my garden railway at least 9 months of the year when I retire. Moving inside is a bit simpler. However with live steam being part of the game it is quite a problem for both safety and ventilation reasons. I am interested in doing a pair of FP7 in Pennsylvania, this would help me wait for a 1/32 scale E unit. I wanted to know if you just sliced in a rectangular part of an F unit body then redid the riveted joint strips (covers) or did a staggered joint like on the prototype but quite difficult to do properly. I guess just splicing in a straight joint then carefully filling of what is unnecessary and adding what is, is the simpler (and neater option) though. Well I hope this works posting this photo, lets see what happens... xl_special Posted 30 June 2013 - 04:45 AM The FP-7A was made from plans in the Summer issue of SP Trainline, page 31. The plans are done in H.O. scale but it was very easy to convert to #1 gauge. If you don't have a copy of this issue, send me an email ltrumbull1@gmail.com and I'll scan the article and send it as an attachment. Let's see some pictures of what you're doing. Its good to see that someone else is modeling in scale. My previous outdoor railroad was also built using a concrete base under the track. The layout I'm building now is all inside, this is because it either rains or snows here about 350 days a year. du-bousquetaire Posted 27 June 2013 - 07:21 PM Hi xl_special: Congratulation, you did a beautiful job. I am thinking of doing the same thing on my PRR F3 converting them to FP7 so that they would be correct for the livery (all other Pennsy F3-F7 where brunswick loco enamel + one buff stripe). And am very interested in seeing how it is done could you show us a few work in progress photos to see where to cut and splice, primarily as I have already done this type of work succesfully. I agree the modular nature of the shell is a great aid in doing this. I am using some Comstock Rail wheelsets on some of my cars since a year and they haven't derailed at all, the newer ones are near finescale with 5MM thread and wheel width and less than 1,5mm flanges. One of my track is homemade on individual wood ties and the other is Tenmille flat bottom. I use 3,35 meter minimum radius and N°8 pointwork nearly everywhere on the pike. Never had a derailment. On my MTH GG1 I have turned down the flanges to 0.9mm and regaged the wheels to 40mm back to back and ditto, no derailments ever. This is on a garden pike with scale rail (on concrete base). My cars are MDC and they have no added weights. This is one of the wonderfull advantages that wide radius brings, and out in the great outdoors why use small radius? I would like to see the Aristo Evans box car converted to 1/32 scale. Take care enginear joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 I posted a desciption of how to put oil-impregated bushings in freight car truck frames in the ROLLING STOCK forum. Check it out, it really works and its very cost effective. Your track is beautiful and the GG-1 looks real. Good job, I'm impressed. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 I am sorry all the repeats got in on the photo of the GG1, I don't know what happened all I wanted to do was to post a picture of the GG1 so it would illustrate what I said in the prior thread??? Sorry but not too good with computers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 About using scale or near scale wheelsets out of doors, I have found that I had the most problems [on a continental Two axle 4 wheels freight car(sprung)] with the transverse level of the track: On my pike there is a deep cut something important main lines have to contend with to traverse rugged scenery and somewhere in the midle of it I had a bad transverse twist in the track, that is where it always derailed. It seems that my american stock mounted on trucks doesn't seem as affected (both on sprung or unsprung like MDC trucks) As the spot is really quite an unpleasant place to reach at my age between two rock sides 2' deep I didn't do much about it, but I have in other parts of the layout. Many years ago I built a track cleaning car that never really worked as a track cleaner and have since rebuilt it as an angle indicator. It has a support on one end made of plywood on which I attached a pendulum from a central hole under this pendulum I made a scale with a few marks with a pencil. I just roll the car over a rough spot of transverse leveling and observe the pendulums indication. it immediately tells me where to jack up or lower one rail in relation to the other and lets me cure these little problems. This may not be necessary with floating track, however my track (code 215 rail) is laid on a concrete base and screwed down to rawlplugs every foot or as needed. This has helped a lot get the track geometry better, it was indispensible when I did some sections with glued scale ballast as I describe in another thread of this forum (the one on the announced MTH 2013 catalogue which somehow slipped to trackwork). This sort of helps do what Lynn Westcott of the Model railroader used to call bonded ballast, but out of doors. However one must be very quick with moss setting in. With live steam being my reason to go to gauge one in the garden, I am quite a freak with trackwork. Live steam can be radio controled but many such as I don't like radio control and prefer a hands on approach. Ok if your track is table top but I wanted mine tofollow the flow of the garden and to be integrated into it, so it is mostly at ground level though much of it is at at least on a one foot fill on the inner side. That means that much of the line is unaccessible to correct a badly set throtle oppening, and those steamers can easely transform themselves into rockets! If one is not carefull. Keeping them tamed is the name of the game and a consist apropriate to the power of the loco is the sollution (just like on the prototype). However with continental hook and chain couplings and buffers, sometimes a train can uncouple it self from the loco, which again tends to becom a missile. That is were very good, safe, reliable trackwork is paramount. Many a bad accidents have been prevented through this on my line. I tend to keep points or turnouts at N° 8 minimum on mainline and a radius of 11 feet on one curve 14 feet on the other. The short radius was descided on the provision that nearly all locos were designed to negociate these radiuses in loco depots or yards at very restricted speeds, so that on our lines with very much reduced centrifugal forces on the one hand and about as much side play between the flanges and the rails as the prototype (in one to one scale, not scaled down) Our engines tend to negociate these radiusses at high speed without problems. I actually had a few nightmares before taking delivery of my T1 on account of its extremly long rigid wheelbase (there is a cylinder block between two sets of 80" drivers), but to my surprise and relief it happens to negociate this minimum radius very nicely. However on purely esthetic grounds I plan to redo this curve to 16' radius when I retire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Hi every body: Here is the finished D78 diner. A detailed construction article on it (and the B60 baggage which uses a slightly different construction approach) should be out in a few months in Steam in the Garden magazine. The technique although applied here for a PRR car could be employed with equal success to build any heavyweight car. The idea beying to keep the detailing relatively basic but to concentrate on a car giving years of trouble free service out on the garden road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 The car is just incredible. I look forward to building several cars using the article in "steam in the garden". I'll be building SP prototype cars, but they are similar. I'm so happy to have found this site and found people who actually model in 1/32nd scale. I've got a MTH Black Widow SP F-7A with two powered B-units behind it. Can you see these 3 units pulling 8 heavyweights? WOW! Can't wait. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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