Screwy Nick

You said it better than I with less words, thank you.

Jan, the hottest part of a gas flame is the tip of the blue. The cuts in the poker burner each only have 1 blue area. The mesh breaks up the gas and as you can see many blue tips in each cut of the burner. The gas flow can be cut down almost 35% and produce the same amount of heat. Models that are designed to run out of gas before water this is no longer the case, have to keep a watchful eye on the stack.

Have mesh left over from when I used to make Radiant Burners, IMHO great. First thing I noticed was Aristo put a piece of screen 2" from the end, my thought was to limit the heat to the end to reduce the amount of smoke box melt downs and more evenly distribute the fuel. Here is the results. 1: screen within the burner 2: plain poker burner 3: wrapped in larger mesh 4: wrapped in finer mesh. Either will reduce the sound of the burner, nice additional feature. LiG

The other filler was even worse than the one I have been using. I am resigned to having to open the valve to vent the tank while filling. I will remove the jet from the delivery tube when doing that, very easy with a finger squeeze clip.

I like winter better as my property is extremely hot in summer. Previous owner took down all but 2 trees. Doesn't get much below 0'F (-17C) here, may be colder where you are.

Sean, thank you. Jan, I still have the center post from where all my measurements and level was done from, maybe a swivel chair set on top of that, just have to pivot a little and adjust the distance on the camera!!!!! When the neighbor sees that, 'men in the white coats' will be fitting me for one of those jackets with the sleeves that tie in the back.

Jan, thank you, it is getting it's 'stride'. Have one more thing to try fueling up as I don't like venting through the jet. Right is the one I have been using for many years, on the left is new one made by Primus. Fat lady is on stage, but hasn't started to sing, yet.

Fueling through the standard Ronson valve appears to be a problem. Even with a warm water bath can only get a couple of times around and out of fuel. Happened twice in a row today, finally against my better judgement added fuel while venting through the jet. Got the best run yet, 45 minutes. Also with the addition of the spring the pilot wheels stayed on track, and the additional 3 strands of copper wire in the oil tube the mess was much less. Realized it is much easier to video from inside the oval, than running around the outside like the crazy man that I am. An OUTSTANDING afternoon. LiG

Got the I and II side by side. First thing I noticed is II has the ability to open the smoke box, and inside is a removable brass plate. Probably to lessen the damage from a smoke box fire. I guess you could also light it from there, but then fiddling to get the brass plate in place is sure to cause some grief.

Very observant there Sean.

Jan, that is talent far beyond anything I can do, a true artist. Did some fuel testing and got strange results: Filled the gas tank at room temp, let it sit and added more fuel. Put water in the bath at 110'F (43C). Outside temp 44'F (6.6C), water to the boiler heated to 190'F (87.8C). At 20 lbs pressure let it go and it only went 1.5 times around the oval, out of fuel. Added fuel to the tank, but not full, same water in the bath. It ran for another 35 minutes till I tired and shut it down. Should have been the other way around??? Also saw a couple more things that need attention, but nonthe less a good day.

Made a bracket for the new switch. My advice would be to look for a bigger one that has a mounting hole in it, would be much easier. Remains to be seen if it will withstand the warmth of the cab.

I earlier mentioned that I broke one of the throttle limiter switches. The new switches came in the mail yesterday. Very glad got my eyes fixed: Thought I had posted this already, but it was waiting for me to click it in, DUH.

Tender wheels were within spec. Hoping to get a final test run tomorrow, this time will put warm water in the sleeve surrounding the fuel tank.

I have 4, all the same. Problem was definitely the loco as none others have had an issue, both electric and live steam.

Worked on re-gauging the pilot and trailing truck wheels. Front was easy, set a washer the thickness I wanted to bring in at the insulated wheel and squeezed in a vice. The tailing trucks was a another matter. Pics will explain: I did further align the wheels on the bottom pic. Jan, I owe you an apology: different light, sure does look like a brass compound.

Jan, yes the pilot and trailing truck wheels. Thank you for the chart, the top part explaining what the letters are helped. Chuck: I really don't know. I haven't figured access to the smoke box. It appears to be two pieces with the seam top center of the boiler. I think restricting the exhaust may cause problems. This really spits water out on initial clearing of the cylinders, on one hand will keep the loco cleaner, but I also noticed it extinguished the flame once or twice. Needs more investigation. EDIT: closer look, two small screws below the marker lights appear to hold the smoke box front.

Here it goes, floating through the turnouts. This mornings tests showed that the truck wheels are also out of gauge, in the opposite direction, 1.582, and the front kept demonstrating that at even at the most minor irregularity. Hoping just a little squeeze in a vice fixes that.

Jan, not a diesel guy, please enlighten me, thank you. Bug sends greetings to Max and Moritz

Jan, must have been the lighting. It is a chrome like metal and pretty tough. Went through 3 of the Dremel tubular emery things that go on the rubber arbor. And they are not plated, same metal all the way through. I found fully enclosed micro switches on line and ordered enough to replace them all when they finally break. I am lucky with this one as it is on the throttle off position. If I go past the off position, rotation of the arm will open the throttle again coming down the other side, so I really can't break anything as long as I keep my eye on it. Hoping to get a run in tomorrow AM when it will be cooler and have nice plumes.

Sean, I had fun doing it. Pushed it through the turnouts and it was smooth. Reinstalled the main rods, and tested on air. Yes struck. The little spring is from the cut off relay on the throttle, closed position. Can't find the contact, but thinking the spring may also be the contact. Found some micro switches on line, going to get enough to replace all of them as they don't strike me as well made. If I run must be careful that I don't let the motor that controls the throttle to over shoot.

Just waiting for the sun to come up so can see how it rolls through the turnouts. Only difference this time was I set the Dremel for 15K instead of less than 10 as before. Tried to keep the 'miles' to a minimum on the running gear. If all goes as I hope, will reinstall the drive rods and today's weather is supposed to great for plumes. Found a tiny spring on the bench, just hoping it's from something else. Thought I kept a watchful eye for as these guys are always lurking. .

Jan, Chuck thank you for the words of encouragement. While sleeping I decided to do the rest of the drivers, just not so much on #1's as I previously stated. First going to lube up the axles and rods.

Here we go, and only needed two hands. Not shown is my using 400 grit to smooth the tire end. Much, Much better going through the #6 divergent. And yes Chuck, I am going after that last .015. Would also like to take some off the front drivers, but not as much as I don't want it to pick points, there's no coming back from that. Now need to tighten up the truck wheels.

Jan, I know I sometimes don't make clear what I mean, that's why I EDIT so much. Side to Side play is important if you intend in going more than in a straight line. Having drivers locked, combined with the narrow back to back spacing causes severe drag on curves that have guide rails, like a turnout.