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Hello, I am trying to command a switch with a Roco Multimaus pro, connected to the Roco 10830 MultiZentrale pro. The swith decoder is a Massoth DiMAX 1-channel switch decoder, which I am able to program with th Massoth Service Tool and Dimax programmer :-) I have set different addresses in the switch decoder and made multiple tests, but I am not able to make it work : address confirmation is given when programmging (reading back provides the correct address, let's say 6) after unplug from the programmer and connect to the track, any command just does nothing :-( I have even tried several addresses from 1 to 10 on the multimaus but it is not working... Any idea how to troubleshoot this ? Is it possible to command such a Massoth decoder with a Roco Multimaus ? Thanks !

One issue I encountered on my layout for some time was the periodic issue of rolling stock (freight and passenger) wheels occasionally hitting the frog point and sometimes derailing when entering the mainline from the side of the switch. After watching the cars go through the switches and doing some testing I determined that the wheels were being allowed to move too far over when going through the frog allowing the wheel's flange to catch, sometimes ride up on and others derailing on the frog. The cause of this was the flange rail guide on the other side (other rail) for that path wasn't over far enough (closer to the other rail) to actually touch the passing wheel and thus guide the wheel/truck through the frog properly. As you can see in the first photo, the flange guides are already as close to rail as possible as the bottom of the rails are touching. Here is the original flange guide configuration: What I found necessary was to remove the flange guides and grind down the lower base of the flange guide rail with a bench grinder to allow the top rail of the flange to be moved close enough to the outer rail to actually have an impact. As a part of this I gave the flange guide a slight bend and ground down the top edge of each end to provide a little more gradual transition. On the bottom of the switch, you may need to open up the retaining screw hole in the tie so you can slide the rail over. Here is the final result: To determine the desired position, I took measurements of the back to back distance between the inside of the wheels of my diff mfg engines & rolling stock and picked a test car that was representative of the group and did testing. (particularly I used a car that was giving me a problem) The key was to move the flange out just enough so the rolling stock that was giving me the problem was properly guided through without causing binding with it or any other cars. This actually was fairly easy and found it to not be that big a problem to do. If you set it up so it just takes care of what you need for a specific car, you shouldn't have issues with the rest of the fleet... there will be enough play to allow slight variations in other engines and cars so that it works fine. Since the modification I've been perfectly happy and have had no problems. Love my affordable Stainless Steel #6 switches Hope someone finds this useful. Raymond