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enginear joe

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Posts posted by enginear joe
 
 
  1.  It figures, I guess. When I was getting bored with my ACe build, well stalled anyways, I got my drawings together and laminated them to prepare for the ES44 build next. I pretty much wore out the drawings for the ACe and figured I should protect the next ones.

     At least, I skipped the build when something motivated me to try a MP15AC build first. So now I'll skip the ES44 build altogether. They take me so long anyways, that MTH will probably deliver before I could build one completely. I have to admit I'm excited that MTH will move to a modern build for a change. It will be interesting to see how it sells. I wonder how long it will take from Mike's idea to delivery, if they even go ahead? I can admit that I will probably sell off stuff and/or prepare otherwise, if I know it's a firm go. Finally, something from them to run with the Dash 8s!!

  2. I just heard that at about 11 min into the video. Still don't know how to add the video link here?

    I think it's great for a bunch of reasons. Of course we get a new state of the art engine with dcc built in and those cool charging led lights. We will probably get all the correct heritage scheme's and regular ones too in G scale then, to help pay for the molds!

  3. Not to counter Ray's advice, because he's who I listen too....but....you could also....

    I have a single MAG 25 amp Bridgewerks hooked up to my TIU right now. I put 10 amp inline fuses right after and it jumpers to channels 1 and 2 with those fuses on each input. That way I still can use the kill switch on the remote. I never go above about four or five amps with three or four engines running on a track in a consist anyways. When you turn up the volts, the engines don't draw as many amps. Not more than 24 at the track!

     When I get a bigger outdoor layout, I'll probably go passive. I bought the key chain kill switches on Ray's site already for then.

  4.  Listen, I have to admit. I don't know what your talking about. I have a clue but I'd be guessing. I've never run live steam.

    I'm glad U got it and hope all works out. When U can maybe post some pictures so we can see her!

     I have to find someone else to jab now that the engine came in!

    I do know some about bad dealer experiences. Just find another. It's not worth your effort to deal with him.

  5. Well the regular couplers that are inside the box don't actually work. They are dummy type couplers. I don't like a switcher that can't drop off the cars!

    I had to drill a hole in the fixed pilot for the plug of the coupler.

    I mounted the proto coupler to the mounting bracket of the dummy coupler. This makes it quick and easy, and sets it at the right height. The trouble is the coupler now sticks way out, too far. I'll probably do some grinding and/or drilling to mount the coupler further back and still clear the trucks.

  6. I ran into something new on this one. If I'm reading the instructions right, the fixed pilots don't allow for use of the electric couplers. They include regular ones for use with the fixed pilots.

     Has anyone mounted the fixed pilots and the electric couplers on this engine?

 
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