Jump to content

rbrown7713

Member
  • Posts

    2,050
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rbrown7713
 
 
  1. No, I had to mix my own, blue, gray and yellow. Here is the result. Bob.
  2. I will know if the striping tool will work in a few minutes. I will definitely find out if the sectioned car is straight or not, that might cause some problems. I am convinced that starting from scratch from my molds is probably twice as easy as redoing the MTH ones. I wore you out?, I am almost done. I found out that the blue paint match is real close after color sanding with 800 and getting rid of the ridge of the paint. Also the blue that MTH uses is a satin, so my gloss didn't look right, but after color sanding and then using rubbing compound brings the color to almost match. Bob.
  3. It is time for the pinstriping and my hand is not too steady, so I came up with this idea to make the stripes with a Beuglar pinstriping tool and mount it on my mill to keep the lines straight and parallel. I will be cranking by hand for more precise control. Here are some pictures. I have made some dry runs and I think it will work. When the blue dries, I will do the striping. Comments appreciated. By the way, that is a test piece in the picture. Bob.
  4. Engineer Joe, I value your input. What do you think of my E-F cab shape? Either positive or negative. Bob.
  5. Here are the final colors, close, but no cigar, but I think it will do. I will be using a Beuglar pinstriping tool for the yellow stripes. Bob.
  6. Hi Jerry, send me a picture. That would be cheating. Let me see what it looks like please. Bob.
  7. Here is a comparison. I showed the left side because I have a crack on the right. Bob.
  8. Thank you. The next locomotive that I will make will be an E-7, but this time I will use all of my own stuff, including the cab mold from the cab in the picture. It is not perfect, but I think it will look OK. Bob.
  9. Yes they are. After trying to duplicate the prototype look many times, I know how difficult it is to get just the correct compound curve. The difficulty in machining a plastic injection mold is that it is easier to use movements of the mill cutter in straight geometric moves, so the large radii are difficult to reproduce. I see it in almost all E unit models. I didn't make mine on a mill, so after about 6 or eight evolutions, I think I got it about right, or as close as I can get the curves by hand. Here is a pic of mine. Bob. '
  10. Well, I have come to the conclusion that I would rather build a Pullman Standard car from scratch with my molds than kitbash an MTH car. I won't be kitbashing any more passenger cars, too much work. Bob.
  11. Here are some pics. of the car with flush windows, next I have to cut the windows. Bob.
  12. As it turns out, I don't need the inside upper compression spring, because the carbon fiber leaf spring does the job. Thanks Sean for the encouragement. Bob.
  13. Here is the rigid diaphragm mounted in the stretched car. I changed the spring mount. Bob.
  14. Here is the look that I am after on the left. On the right is the stock configuration.
  15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CGwKRaxF7k Here I attempt to show how my cloth diaphragms are made in 1:32 scale.
  16. Here is the camera setup for the tutorial for the making of a diaphragm. It will be a slide program, a video has too many gigs. I am using an ipad with a remote shutter control. Bob.
  17. Here are some pics. that are of a diaphragm that I made yesterday. I am trying to make a video and I am finding out that it not as easy as I thought. Half of my video demo was out of frame, so I will try again.
  18. Here is the leaf spring installed. It also will offer some spring action to the movement of the diaphragm. Bob.
  19. Thanks again, yes, to make an 85 ft. scale car, it took another 4 5/16 inches and 1/2 inch on the truck. In addition, I had to move the truck bolster 5/16 inches away from the either end and adjust the length of the coupler bar 9/32 inches shorter to get the diaphragms in the correct position, I hope. It's not over yet. Today I am trimming the carbon fiber leaf spring. Caution, if anyone is working with carbon fiber, use sealed goggles and a mask. The small cut fibers will float and get in your eye, I know this, because it has happened to me. I just went down to Home Depot and bought some new goggles and a mask for that reason. I am getting ready to make a movie tutorial on how I make the cloth flexible diaphragms. It has been a long time since I have made any, so it might take several days. The cloth diaphragm is the one on the right. Bob.
  20. Yes, it is not a match. MTH's color is not a standard color, go figure. They have to have a special color. I think I can match it though. I have been testing some mixtures, and I am getting close.
  21. Yep, I know what you mean. Today, I make the leaf springs for the diaphragms. In one picture you can see how far away the diaphragms are apart, 1 1/4 inch. That gap will be closed. I laid up the leaf springs, boy carbon fiber is sometimes hard to work with, especially uni-directional because it doesn't want to stay together and it is stiff. Depending on how the springs turn out, I might have to add a ply or two after I remove them from the mold. Here are some pics. Bob.
  22. The only thing left is a little work on the diaphragms, placing the couplers, cutting new windows, and paint. I am having a hard time matching the colors. The numbers that MTH gave me of the paint from Dupont are unknown to Dupont or the affiliate that they are partnered with, so I will have to mix my own and can only get them as close as I can. The classic colors from todays B&O colors are not a match. Everyone has there own interpretation of B&O royal blue and the gray. No help from MTH.
  23. I have decided to add a leaf spring to the diaphragm. I lost my last mold, so I made a new one for the spring. The mold is made of 1/4 inch plexiglass and the spring is made of carbon fiber uni-directional. The carbon fiber is actually wing re-enforcement stock that can be bought at any airplane hobby shop. If I remember correctly, I used three plies. The stuff is really stiff, so one has to be careful on how many plies to use. It has to be flexible. Here are some pics. of the mounts and the mold. Bob.
  24. It's not the end Jerry, you are just in a slump. No one that loves trains forgets it forever, you'll be building again as soon as you see something you like and no one builds it, like me if they don't make it and I want it bad enough, I build it. Bob.
 
×
  • Create New...