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Track power for down and back operation


roushsn95
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Hi all,

I'm new to G scale. I barely know what I'm doing but I've been doing research the past year and a half to try to learn, find inspiration. The planning part was fun, but now I'm ready to start executing the plan.

 

My question: Is it possible to run a train down and back with track power? I'm planning on building a backyard loop around the perimeter of my yard, however, I'm doing it in 4 phases because it's big, requires some construction and is a pricey endeavor. Each phase is only a section of track (about 60'-70'. I'm figuring total length 240'-250') before becoming a continuous loop to connect. Honestly, I can't even get power on a small closed loop track right now with my USA Trains Power 10, so I'm off to a slow start and maybe trying to get ahead of myself. But I wanted to put it out there to hear some thoughts from experienced people. Thanks!!

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Hi there,


Bare with my questions as just trying to understand:

 

- When you say down and back, you are basically asking being able to run the train one direction (forward) then make it run in reverse?  Yes you can, you change the polarity/Direction switch on the power supply to change polarity to the track and it will make the motors run in the opposite direction.

- When you say 4 phases, does this mean the track is electrically isolated?  If isolated, what was the reason for doing that vs just having continuous electrical continuity at the track/rail level?  I'm going to guess you just mean you are building out in sections.

- What is causing the belief that cant get enough power on a small closed loop of track with the USA Trains Power 10?  What are you seeing behavior wise?  I have had customers report defective USA Trains Power 10 power supplies that output power pulses where the lights on the engines just flicker/pulse and engines dont move.  It makes me wonder if the issues you are encountering overall is a defective power supply as that power supply has plenty of power to run an engine or two. (unless you have really bad slider track joiners that are causing power continuity issues between each section of track.).  I'm really thinking that PS has an issue tho.  

 

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Rayman, thank you for the reply!

 

"When you say down and back, you are basically asking being able to run the train one direction (forward) then make it run in reverse?  Yes you can, you change the polarity/Direction switch on the power supply to change polarity to the track and it will make the motors run in the opposite direction."

 

Correct. One direction and then run it in reverse. So do I have to connect the wires from one end of the rail to the other end of the rail to make it continuous or will one connection point straight to the track work?? I apologize for the simpleton questions. If I was getting power to my track I could work through it. 

 

"When you say 4 phases, does this mean the track is electrically isolated?  If isolated, what was the reason for doing that vs just having continuous electrical continuity at the track/rail level?  I'm going to guess you just mean you are building out in sections."

 

Correct. Building it out it out in 4 sections to make it a continuous loop. 

 

"What is causing the belief that cant get enough power on a small closed loop of track with the USA Trains Power 10?  What are you seeing behavior wise?"

 

I checked my wires with a multimeter - they have continuity so its not the wires. When I put the wires into the Power 10, I'm not getting any reading when checking for DC output. I'm going to try again, make sure the track is well connected together. But if it still doesn't work, I'll call USA Trains. I don't know what other option I have.

 

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Sure thing!

 

You can have wires go to one point in the oval or multiple points.  (ie on one end of a straight of track or on both ends).  An issue that may come up is the quality of the rail connections at each rail joint.  This is why it is important to go with direct to rail clamps at each and every rail joint location that connects rail ends together.  Generally I recommend Stainless steel track and stainless steel clamps (Split jaw is the clamps I use), but may use brass track/clamps.  If you have good quality connections you have less of a need for having jumper wires at other locations on the layout.  Having additional jumper locations provides redundancy and ensures better reliability if a connection issues crops up.  If you use the factory provided slider joiners you will have issues with track power at all the joints that will get worse and worse over time. (this is why many go battery power because they try to use slider joiners for track connections and they create more and more problems.   

 

Test the power supply with a 18-24v light bulb and see how the light looks when power is applied, it sound be consistently lit.  

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8 hours ago, roushsn95 said:

This is great information. I have a lot to consider then. Thank you, again!

The USA power pack is limited in what size loop and what you want to run as a train.. consider upgrading to a better power unit.

Ray might have some idea's..

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Just to note, the size of the loop itself actually doesn't matter.  Running a single engine around a 1000ft loop vs running around a 50ft loop, isn't going to change the amount of amperage used to drive the engine (or if it does, not materially).  The USA Trains Power 10 is a 10amp power supply so that for sure will be enough to get started and depending on how many engines you want to run at the the same time, it may be enough for your use.  (rated output is I think up to 24v?  Does anyone know the rated output in VA/Voltamps/Watts on it?)  Since you already have the power supply and assuming it works ok and isn't defective, I would say start with that.  You can for sure run 2 engines at the same time, likely more.  If the power supply was 3amp then yes I would agree that would be bare minimum. For power supplies above this power/amp/output rating, I generally advise looking at Bridgewerks throttle type power supplies and if you need more than the USA Trains Power 10 (ie where you are finding the USA doesnt have enough amperage output) I would go with a 20amp Bridgewerks throttle.  

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Thanks again for the reply and info!

 

Update: So my Power 10 is NOT defective. I worked through testing it more thoroughly and carefully one more time before I sent it back...... operator error. SMDH :Face_With_Rolling_Eyes_Emoji_large(24x24): 

Anyway.... My engine is running and I'm stoked!

 

I think those Bridgeworks are above what I need right now in power and price, but I'm sure when I'm more invested in this endeavor, I'll opt for top of the line stuff. So thanks again for all this info. It's valuable!

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