enginear joe

Makes me want to run DCC again! I'm waiting for the DCS version from MTH and Hikel trains. I applaud these systems to help move the hobby forward. They take the mystery out of programming and return the fun to trains.

I just know some of the basics. There are others here that will help out much better. I run O and G in my basement. I ran the G gauge at first with DCC before switching to DCS. They won't work together on the same rails. TMCC/Legacy and DCS add the signal on top of the power to the rails where DCC chops the waves of the power supply. I ran AC at first when I switched to DCS. I was told the signal will be stronger with DC so I switched the layout over to DC with a Bridgewerks. It runs great, but it ran fine with AC. I was preparing to go outside with the G scale anyways. I was told not to power the TIU with both DC and AC. To clarify I'm not sure if they meant just the aux input for TIU power or each channel but I never tried either. I started with one TIU for both layouts and bought a second when I converted to DC power on the G. I have two TIUs now which I've split between G and O. Even if I had three, I'd only need one for G as the signal travels much better in G gauge! ??? I have had more troubles tuning the O gauge layout than the G. Once I split my large mainline so the signal didn't double back on itself, the G gauge has been easier to maintain. As I acquired many O gauge engines that sit on the track sidings, I've noticed I need more TIU channels for better signal. I imagine if you bought 50 G gauge engines, they would start soaking up the signal too. I suspect it would be the larger track layout, wiring, and sidings that would be needed to fit them that does the signal soak problems to the # of tiu channels needed.

Yahoo! Summer must be coming! We still have too much snow here for me to start............

XL, did you work on the sideframes too? They look like they're closer to the wheels? (the brake shoes)

by the way, beautiful track work too!

Whoa, I'm a train guy and I'd rather watch that remote truck. Very nice video! Was that steamer run from the phone?

you have to look for the sliders in my opinion:

I should have added that at first, I thought I would have removed the sliders. I didn't like how they looked at all. I thought they stood out like "sore thumbs". Others had cautioned me to wait. I must admit that they disappeared from my view now. I barely notice them and I believe they help with my smooth running large consists. They're on the USA's and the LGB too right? I think they're better hidden on the MTH models.

I can help a bit. I only have 1 F series from MTH. All of my MTH G scale engines have sliders. They all also have wheel pickups with carbon brushes rubbing on each. I don't have any F dummy. I have a Dash 8 dummy that has all pickups to operate the lighting. Maybe someone can tell you more on what to expect and how to power up that B. I think the tether runs right thru it.

Maintenance is key! A dry axle or bearing will wear out fast. Oiling of the USA and Aristo axles because of their design is key to keeping them in good order. I think the biggest factor for me is that I ran for years inside only! (no dirt). I also use several engines to pull my cars. I never overload them with too long a train to pull. I try to pull the cars by hand sometimes to gauge how many engines to use. If you've ever tried to pull fifty or more cars by hand, you'd never ask your engine to do it alone again! I like to use a pusher on the back to take the pressure off the couplers too. That USA SD40-2 does not pull what it should since the tires were removed. The SD70MACs do much better. I try and keep the long trains on the MTH dash 8s. I know they can take it.

Yes, if you speck out what type of gear you're after to NWSL. There's a form on their site I believe. I tried casting a gear out of better plastic and it came out quite well. It slips on the axle too easily so it needs some work. I wrecked the mold trying to alter it. It can be done if you have a gear sample in pristine condition. Too bad they're not molded onto the axles when they're cast.

Ray, everything was stock and I've owned the engine since it was new. I swapped out the idlers and got rid of the rubber tired axles so there should be less wear down the road? I think USA started eliminating the rubber tires on newer releases? That might help.

here's some pic's of the idlers in my SD40-2. I don't have pictures of the other stripped idlers in my MACs.

I may need a set to make a baggage car like Jerry did. It maybe easier just to get the whole car?? Too many projects right now.

Ummm.....errrr....we were staring at the Dreyfuss.

They look great to me! Definitely worth it.Those wheel profiles look better than mine.

I'd rather be working on this than the 2' of snow falling without a break!

Wow, has it been another year already? This is last year's? I'm not doing any better this year. Every time I start saving to go, I run into a bunch of deals. I got more stuff this year than any other year. So when I asked if we could go, I got something like I must be kidding? Probably a good thing. I would buy all the SD70MACs if they were on sale again and I went! Don't even show me a Big Boy!

I bet that's where years of train building experience trumps all.

Thank you!

My K-Line engine was split so bad, not only would the wheels turn easily, they also lost the correct spacing and would derail itself! It wouldn't even go forward well as the wheels weren't turning smoothly. The seller said that it ran good???

That looks great from what I can see. (when I click on the image, it says I do not have permission to view?) Could you share anymore tips on how to paint that on to get that look? I was considering swapping out the deck with real wood to get that look.

I got some help from Daniel Peck on these fans. I just couldn't get the fins straight and enough of them crammed in. He did a computer drawing and printed it with a Afinia printer. Amazing stuff to me! these are just test samples and I'm adding some detailing still and they'll get even better.

I swapped out the smaller stock wheels to larger 40" on my GP38. I haven't attached the brake shoes back onto the side frames yet. I'm not sure it's worth the hastle to me. stock on top

Trust me, I'm not happy overall with this. I spent a ton of cash on their parts already. It seems like a reasonable fix and I'll see how it holds up. If the axle installation was that bad, I bet U could install the brass sleeve loosely against the wheel, and then push it on the axle gear afterwards? With the NWSL axles being looser, it's not a concern to me right yet. I'll have to see if I guessed right on the amount of tension the brass sleeve is putting on the setup. Guys were using fishing line wrapped around as a fix.