enginear joe

One thing I've heard of and never tried, was to add a bridge rectifier of sufficient amp cap to the output of a variable TIU channel that is powered with an AC transformer. That allows the TIU to vary the output (using AC only), while giving DC to the track to run stuff like your trolleys.

I really don't know much about the commander and would wait for the guys to answer your questions. . I have the whole DCS system. I have powered my G scale DCS layout with both AC or DC, with good results. When you run MTH PS2 engines on straight DC, you can't use the functions. Just the standard engine sounds that change according to the throttle. If you used an AC transformer with bell and horn controls, I believe those will trigger the engine's horn and bell sounds. I got by for years with a ten amp Lionel AC brick and the DCS system. The engines use another amp each when the smoke is on.

I like the ability of the MTH engines to be able to drop cars anywhere on the layout. I think that's what is one of the biggest features in O gauge. When upgrading other brands of engines to run on my layout, I still wanted that ability in any engine I chose to run and in any position in a consist. Adding the MTH couplers to USA trains engines was fairly easy. I believe I just screwed them onto the screw mount stand on those engines, using their spring mechanisms to keep the couplers straight. Mounting them on the Aristo, there is just a bit more to it. First, the coupler post gets cut flush so that it protrudes about 3cm from the bottom of the frame. I then modified some coupler mounts I had from a MTH car. They get cut in a plus design flush to the hole so they'll sit flat on the Aristo posts with the posts stiffners locking into them. The bottoms of these pieces gets a notch so that they will fit around the rear pilot piece as they're screw mounts won't work. Hopefully the pictures will help clear up the descriptions. The MTH electro-coupler doesn't get touched this way and their return springs will keep them straight. One other thing that needs cutting is the pilot above the coupler so that there's clearance for the taller electro-coupler. After mounting, I used hot melt glue to help reinforce the assembly. Make sure not to bond to the coupler itself. This is my first blog, so bare with me.

Anybody got the coal porters??

Adding electric couplers to a Aristo dash 9 CN. Also, got my next project.

I should have said that MTH was playing with a 2 rail O gauge coupler. I was told it was dropped for now because it wouldn't work reliably. When I asked about it, I was told it had to use muscle wire as the board wouldn't work with a solenoid type??? Funny, they work with solenoids on three rail. I do have some PS3 O scale engines myself.

Yeah, I think as any of us read this, we'll flash through our own experiences and remember how we got started and how it feels for each of us. I laugh sometimes at what I go have to do to keep them running smooth. It sometimes feels like a job more than a hobby. I suppose that's why some guys get in and then sell out of this. I too started with a loop of track on the floor. Back when I was a kid, and again when I bought some G scale. I should have kept it simple. Just a transformer handle and a train. I'm too far in now.... Have fun!!!

tick, tick, tick...... I'm losing my cool........ got to maintain composure...... Rats, another month...... I'd better just order one of everything incase this happens again? I'll need a big bank loan....... I wonder how the new boards are coming? They won't work with regular O gauge couplers so are they making new G gauge ones??? They only work with LEDs also, so I hope they're not using the blue ones!!! No more polarity switch!

Do they take payments????

Well then, this is turning out great. Thanks for the site. Looks like I'll be the last to get outside again this year. Weather was starting to get nice and someone said the S word!! The yard's getting mushy again with the heavy rain. I really should have made a blog page of some conversions. I get excited to get them running, like a kid. Looks like they'll stay inside for a bit longer. I saw the Aristo European models coming out and skipped them. I wasn't sure how'd they look next to my American moderns. They do look great. I need to focus because I can't get everything. These posts help fill the need!! I'm waiting to see an Allegheny. Someone's got to have it. I should have saved or held out for one. I got diesel fever. Just rambling......waiting for the delivery truck......

hope we're not using too much of the server. I look forward to seeing all the engines. I like rolling stock but I love the engines!

I never saw this painted. Last pics I saw were raw brass. My favorite steamer.

Huge!!

This is great news and I'm still looking for new product. I remember talking with a dealer years ago. He said that one of the problems for a smaller dealer was that MTH demanded that he orders cars in twos. Meaning if I came into his store looking for a car, he had to order two of them. He said that when he did that, often times the other car would not sell. I would have loved to become a dealer myself by now. I bet it would be tough to survive.

there's plenty of sites and mags with info on these to read: http://www.nscorp.com/nscportal/nscorp/Community/Heritage%20Locomotives/

It's funny that the newer painted GE engines looks closer to a AC4400 to me than a dash 9. I believe the first problem is only half of the engines are painted in heritage are GE and the others are EMDs. The EMD is a SD70ACE. USA trains took their SD70MAC and painted it in UP heritage colors and it sold. They also should have been SD70ACes. So I don't fault Aristo for trying it with their GE. No one makes the correct engines in G scale that I know of. So if you like the colors, I guess you're actually buying a fantasy scheme. I bet most guys don't study all the details. I have noticed because I'm building the correct models. I think it takes the fun out of it sometimes.

No, I wish it was!! Most of it is used. Some looks great. Woa. You got flex Ray!! I've been looking for awhile!!

I might have some explaining to the mrs. now if I could find some more stainless flex rails

Here she is with sound and light swap. some parts still need fixing.

Thanks for asking and posting!

Thanks Ray, I looked on your site. I had forgot about the plate to re-inforce the couplers. I think I'll add that too and glue everything to make a rock solid mount.

Yeap, both of these are snapped clean off. Rear coupler assembly too. Ditch lights also, but they snap back on. Horns are snapped off the top. Someone took the trucks apart and all the gears and flex shafts are wrong, so maybe stuff was broke before??? I can tell when I find the broken plastic pieces come rolling out of the box first thing. It's not going to be pretty.

Alright I'm getting T O' d. Fourth engine (product) in a row that is damaged from not being packed correctly. Guys, if you don't have the box, or if you're missing the insert in USA's, tape something to the end of the engines! The guys are going to stand these things on end at sometime during shipping. Now the whole coupler assembly is snapped off. It was bubble wrapped and taped great. There were plenty of styro peanuts in the box. But all that stuff still left all the weight on the coupler assembly which can't survive. Ditch lights, hand rails etc. So take a minute and make something that attaches to the body to stand on end. Or tell the customer that you don't have the box!!! Urggg!!

How about another USA?

I'm wondering why USA trains doesn't release their mac in the modern CSX Dark scheme? They have some modern versions like BNSF's. I want to take one and paint it. Before I do, I think I'd flare the radiators too (to make it modern)? http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=94228 http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=434640