ssculptor

Ray, Thank you for this info. Sure is a long way from 1930's Lionel O gauge! I would like to convert all my G and 1 steam locos to simple linear (analog?). All battery powered. But to keep it simple (hah) use a seperate, simple radio control unit out of a flying model airplane to provide electricity and control to the sounds and the most humoungeous steam generator available. Is such a dual system possible? I see the controls of both systems being operated by me at the same time. Can you produce such a dual system? What do you think? Thanks, Stephen Auslender

Yikes!!! I have been playng with model railroads on and off since the early 1940's. I fondly remember the "good olde days." You have a transformer and you hook it to the track, plug in in and then make the train go backwards and forewards. Toot toot. Works every time. This past few years I got back into trains big time. I pulled the older trains out of storage and and dusted them off. I also splurged and bought a bunch of used engines. Lots of track, too. Then I started to read strings like the one above. The next thng I knew I was wearing an old helmit and was running, panic stricken, for the old bomb shelter. You guys sure know how to scare an old geezer! Isn't there one system that can be fitted to all sorts of G and 1 scale locomotives to enble me to run locos. Make these trains run forward and back ward, control the sounds and the smoke? Thanks

Please, where will it be held? Thank you.

https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-d51-steam-locomotive-full-kit.html https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-c57-locomotive-full-kit.html Has anyone seen these yet? Just curious what gauge track would they run on, assuming one can motorize them. They are 1/24 scale but what was the standard track gauge in Japan in 1930-40's? Interesting items. Stephen

Hi Chuck, I will reply to your questions one by one. First, I can operate machinery, lathes, mills, etc. I can do soldlering, welding, etc. Second, I want to spend minimum amount of money, naturally. I am in the process of learning about the control systems, DCC, DSS. When I figure that out I'll commit to it and gradually switch all my engines over to that. I like complicated switching problems. There I am in control of the movements and have fun solving knotty problems in train movements. I try to emulate as much of real locomotive operation as I can. To me an engine should emit copious amounts of steam at the appropriate times, should give off loud sounds reflecting the operations taking place. and of course, he trains should run. There are tapes where one listens to falling rain and that relaxes people. To me steam engine operation sounds relaxes me. Yes, i know I can do everything I want in G trains with sound tapes but I like the actual operation of the engines. If I were a millionaire I would have my own narrow gauge railroad and play with that. But that is all play. I enjoy manipulating and making things. I am a sculptor and I have this idea of combining my sculpture and model railroading to make a form of kinetic sculpture. Not sure where all this will go but one never knows. Life is an adventure and I never know what is going to come out of my efforts. That is what makes life so much interesting fun. Stephen

That is great, just what I am looking for. The problem now is I have about 50 G gauge steam locomotives, ranging from an 0-4-0 up to a 2-8-8-8-2. Question is how do I install a sound/smoke unit in each. It will not be easy as they vary in size and they are produced by many different manufacturers. What I need to know is what is the best synchronized sound/smoke system to install in each of these different locomotives. I figure I can begin with a MTH ProtoSounds 3 decoder DCS or DCC and a MTH smoke unit. So where do I buy this equipment? I have not been in model railroads since the 1980's so I have a lot to learn.It will probably be easier to install a unit in the very common Aristocraft pacific. There are many of theses around and would be a good place to begin with. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stephen

Thank you. I will contact them to see if there is a set up for steam locomotives, too.

Two years our home caught fire which caused the destruction and making unreadable of my entire library of books and magazines (6,000 items). Our house is rebuilt and now that I am returning to G gauge modeling I would like to dispense entirely with power through the rails and go to all battery operation. Also I want radio control operation of the speed, sound, smoke, etc. But I really know nothing about any of this really interesting stuff. So I am starting over as if I was a newbie to model railroading. Are there texts or magazine articles that explain what all these different systems do and how do I make a decision on which to use? I do not know DCC from Airwire or any of the others. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Stephen

Two years ago, almost to the day, there was a fire in my house. I lost a few G gauge locomotives entirely to the fire but my Aristo 2-8-8-2 was only badly damaged. Smoke, water and being trampled on by the firemen trying to get the hoses to the actual fire did a job on it. The firemen were not at fault, their primary duty was to put the fire out. They did a good job. I love 'em. Still, I would like to acquire one or more of these 2-8-8-2 beauties, in any condition!!! I can take a damaged locomotive and rebuild it to suit my railroad's style. I can also use parts. Or I can use one in operating or almost running condition. Whatever. If you have what I want and no longer need it yourself please let me know. Thanks, Stephen

Ray, Thank you for this info. I was about to ask his question myself. However, I still would like to know what is meant when they give us the degrees. For example, a listing on eBay says LGB 1608 Right & 1615 Left Hand Electric Switch R3 22.5° ~ G SCALE Now, thanks to you I know that R3 means the radius is 3''-11" (7'-10" diameter). But what does the 22.5 degrees mean? I started to construct my outdoor railroad and was looking to make it large enoiugh to accommodate the big mallets. However, two years ago there was a fire at my home and my library burned. Well, that happens. But I wanted to construct my own switches and especially on a curve. I remember I had an article on how to make my own but its is all ashes now. Is there any source where I can get plans and instructions on scratch building my own switches in G gauge? Thanks again, Stephen

Thank you Ray, I will get back to you on this. Thanks, Stephen

Thank you, guys. Now that I know what can be done the next step is to set up my work room and unpack everything. We had a disastrous fire two years ago and are just now moving back into our repaired home. Its like living in a warehouse right now but we are making progress in unpacking, etc. This spring I will get the outdoor layout erected and I'd like to have all the trains carry their own batteries. I can run a 75 foot track each way and I do not trust getting even power to all parts of the route so I feel it best to have every train carry its own power source. Should be fun. Stephen

Are you saying that I can install the required MTH boards and controls in any brand locomotive I have? I have just returned to G model railroading after years away from the hobby. Can I use MTH remote control,, too, in other brands of locos? Also, as long as I am on the topic, can I run all this with a battery power source? The tenders are pretty large nowadays and I could put batteries in them, or in the first car following the tender. Or, in other words, convert the whole shebang to MTH operations, including the smoke apparatus. Thanks, Stephen

I would like to install sound boards upon which I have recorded the sounds I want. Has anyone had any experience with trying to do this? What equipment and software would I need? Anyone? Thanks, ssculptor

I wonder if this is related to lead rot. Remember the old castings we bought for making model ships? A lot were cast in lead or an alloy of lead. Normally they last a long i but when painted trouble appears. Over time the coating of paint develops cracks, expansion/contraction due to temperature changes, rough handling, witchcraft, who knows? Nevertheless, the cracks allow moisture to enter the otherwise airtight covering formed by the paint. Over more time the moisture causes the lead to oxidize (rust) and turn to powder (lead oxide). Eventually the part crumbles. Ship model museums have a terrible time with this problem as some of the models have hundreds of tiny castings that are disappearing, taking down the rigging on sailing ship models. The better solution would be to cast all the parts in a better material, like brass or bronze or copper or stainless steel. Aluminum is not much better. Ever see an aluminum part that was exposed to the elements over years at a time? The solution? The manufacturer of the part must insist on purchasing casting material of a formulation that will not decay over time. Can it be done? or should I ask Whom do you trust? Many plastics are not much better. Otherwise I woiuld suggest 3-D printing. None of the 3-D printing materials have been in existence long enough to determine how they weather time. Maybe the solution is for companies to produce these intricate plastic parts using a proven (?) long age material. If I have a piece that has crumbled I would just reconstruct it in copper, perhaps. Maybe we will see an aftermarket industry appear where guys in their garages (heated) producing replacement parts using the latest 3-D printers and materials. This is an exciting time in terms of manufacturing of items using 3-D printing. Over time we have gone from the stone age through the bronze age, the metal age (otherwise called the iron age) and maybe now it will be known as the plastic age. So how does all this help all of us whose models are disintegrating before our very eyes? Good question. Stephen

Yes, that approaches what the steam should look like. I'd love to see the mechanism they use. I'd really like to be able to buy several to put in my other locomotives. ssculptor.

OK, I am back in town so I can get back to my favorite problem. How does one make tremendous volumes of smoke and steam shooting up out of the stacks? I have all these wonderful photographs and videos and memories but all I ever got on model trains were thin anemic wisps of smoke dribbling out of the stack. Has anyone ever tackled this problem before? Has anyone ever succeeded? At first, years ago, I figured on using "tillie", that is titanium tetra chloride. That is a chemical that changes to lots and lots of white smoke when exposed to air. We used it in the 1940's to make smoke on our U-Control model airplanes.. Worked very well. Unfortunately the chemical is so toxic that firemen have been warned that when they find some to instantly back away and call in the Hazmat crews with their protective clothing. Not the best thing for a hobby. Back then we handled it with bare hands but back then, who knew? There was no OSHA to protect mere working men. I considered dry ice but it does not emit the large volumes of smoke needed. Also one has to be careful when handling it to avoid frostbite. I am not a chemist, and my only friend who was a professor of chemistry passed away many years ago so I really do not know with whom to discuss this. Any ideas?

You can go to full size locomotives if you find the 60 cm gauge trains that were used in large farms 100 years ago. They were also used in WW1 to supply troops up to the trenchs. They were popular in South America and it is likely some can be found today but they would need expensive rebuilding. You would also need a really big back yard and lots of track. We can dream, can't we?

I recently was outbid on a #1 gauge 2-8-8-8-2 on ebay. I quit at $850 which was good because l really could not afford it. Besides l prefer scales closer to 1/29. 1/24 or therabouts. Or so l keep telling myself. Yeah sure. But l have enough old Bachman 4-6-0 engines to make my own. Why not? The real railroads often modified or made their own designs in their shops. The H & W RR will have their own triplex. Kit bashing and scratch building was a lot easier in HO Gauge in the 1950 1970 Era with Selley Co. selling all the necessary parts, like feedwater heaters, various pumps and vebelfetzers. Is there a company today producing all those parts in G gauge?

Yes, I was lucky the tidal water was clean and drained away as the extraordinary high tide ebbed away. The only problem was the rectifier and that just needed a good blast with the garden hose. Also I cleaned where the wires bolted to the other parts. It was with a good deal of trepidation that I turned it on again after several days drying out. No problem at all.

Hi Chuck, Many thanks for the cleaning advice. I will do what you suggest. We once had a flood in my basement where ground water (fresh) was forced up into the basement to a depth of about 18 inches. The washer and dryer were on the floor so the motor of the washer got very wet. I was told that just take the back of the shell of the washer and dryer off and let them air dry for a few days. I also placed a couple lights near them with 200 watt bulbs to give some heat. It all worked fine. After four days I had enough nerve to plug them back in and they worked very well for many years after. They were Maytag machines of course and they lasted over 20 years. Unfortunately the new Maytag machines are now made by a different company and the lifespan has been cut to 1/3, at best, of the old machines. Such is life. Also my Lincoln Idealarc 250 welder was totally under saltwater for several hours as if was stored in the garage that was right at the edge of the harbor. I called Lincoln for advice and they said to just remove the sheet metal and hose it down with a powerful stream of fresh water from my garden hose. Then let it dry off a few days. It has worked perfectly ever since. By the way I now live on high ground, hundreds of feet above sea level. As to the damage to the mallet, I always wanted-to convert it to the Erie 0-8-8-0 camel back or later 2-8-8-2 but I never had the nerve to do that to a locomotive in new condition. Now, however, I can proceed without any qualms. I enjoy making my own locomotive and rolling stock. Back in the 1950's Bill Schoup wrote articles about how he converted HO gauge engines to look like they were from other railroads. Back then we had only a few affordable locomotives and they were cast in Zamnack. We could buy all the parts we needed from Seeley Co. which cast everything in metal. The alternative was to buy brass locomotives that were made in Japan. Gorgeous but very expensive. Schoup's articles were in Railroad Model Craftsman as I recall. Now I can do that in G gauge. Yes my work will never appear in Fine Scale Modeler but so what? I make models for my pleasure and to please the board of my railroad, Hawgwaller and Western. Again, many thanks, Stephen

Hi guys, Is there any book or article on the repairing of G gaugevmodel locomotives that have suffered fire damage? Twenty months ago there was a fire in my house. We have finally moved back into our repaired home and now I want to get the trains operating. They all suffered smoke and some water damage but one was trampled by the firemen as they fought the fire. The worse hit was the Aristocraft 2-8-8-2 which was trampled when it was knocked off the shelf and walked on by the firemen. I certainly cannot blame the firemen as the smoke was so dense no one could see for than a foot in front of one's eyes. But I am now trying to get things back in running condition. The physical damage can be repaired. That is no problem. But what to do with smoke and water filled electrical motors? There are also several Lionel 4-4-2 large scale Atlantic's which got wet and smoky. Same for the Bachmann 4-6-0 engines. Is there any book or booklet or magazine article that cover this? Also, I would like to convert everything to battery power and radio conitrol operation. Any suggestion as to which is the best system to use in G gauge. Many thanks, Stephen

You did a good job with your Breyer-Garratt. I intend to use the Bachmann 4-6-0 because they are now so inexpensive. Everyone seems to have 2 or a half dozen of the critters lying around. They sell on eBay for under a hundred bucks, including postage. I had a Bachmann 4-6-0 that was converted to a mother Hubbard with a wooten firebox but it was lost in a house fire. I'll eventually convert a number of different engines I have in storage into Mother Hubbards. So much to build - so little time.

It looks fine to me. I am thinking of using two Bachmann 4-6-0 locomotives to make mine. in G gauge. I am not a fine sale modeler at all. I use the three foot rule, "If it looks good from three feet away it is in scale". Besides it is more fun to make my own locomotive designs. Stephen

Does anyone have a g gauge Breyer Garratt, or started one? Or is gathering parts for one, or is just dreaming about one?