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rbrown7713

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Everything posted by rbrown7713
 
 
  1. Since I bought this printer, I thought it is about time to build a model of the helicopter that I flew in Nam. This printer is amazing. Using PAHT CF, a nylon and carbon fiber mix, you can't see any lines, almost like a resin print. I bought this model online and re scaled it to 1:18 from 1:48. There is a million parts to print, but it is fun. I can really recommend this printer because it is so easy to print with, litterally, load your file, slice it, push print, unbelievable. I am printing two parts at the same time right now, Bob.
  2. Someone contacted me to buy some of my Superliner cars and I didn't want to sell. Not long after, he emailed me and told me about a builder in Belgium, and he bought some, they are beautiful cars, and here is the link: AKLA Trains Bob
  3. In case anyone is interested in this engraving procedure, the plastic is Trotec Trolase black/white 2 ply 1/16th" sheets from Amazon. The laser used is an Xtool D1 pro, settings were speed, 400mm/min., and power is 10%. I found that due to my inexperience in cutting, it messes up the edges because of the higher power needed, it is better for me to cut it with a Dremmel grinder, that is the reason for the outside lines. Also, an added bonus is that an led light behind the numbers will shine through the white and light them up. Bob.
  4. Lot better than messing with decals. Bob.
  5. These numbers were made on an xtool laser. Bob.
  6. This xtool laser is very handy, I am finding out in making parts accurately and easily. E1 rear windows. These will be patterns for a mold. Bob.
  7. Here is the mold for the E6 number boards. Next, I will have to order some urethane plastic. It is taking time to sculpt the front of the loco, as the print didn't project the real look of the prototype, after comparing photos, so it will take some time to shape. After listening to many 3d printer experts, they say that PLA plastic is not compatible with exposure to the sun, so if anyone makes a model from a 3d printer, one should use ABS, or PETG, or some other filament that is more suitable to UV resistance. I am using PLA because I am making molds from these PLA parts and will make them from Urethane which has a better resistance to UV effects. Bob.
  8. OK, I should have more clear. The 3d printed part of the front of the loco. is going to be used to make 2 different loco's. The front, or pilot, on the E1 and the E6 are very close in appearance. So, the number board that I am modelling is for the E6, and I haven't yet decided on a road. Bob.
  9. Beautiful work, nice work on the screens. Bob.
  10. Yes, I really like the shape of these boards, so I had to model them. Here is the pattern for the number boards, next make the molds. Bob.
  11. I thought I would share this with you. For the E6, I am making the number boards and cut out these on my laser. This is just the start, they have to be smoothed and I have to make a mold. I am surprised how accurate the laser is. These are just slightly over 1 inch long.
  12. Thanks Jerry. I am now looking for the older number boards that came on the earlier EMD diesels, any ideas? I am posting the start of the E1 here also to show what I am doing, Bob.
  13. Boy Jerry, that looks fantastic. I hope mine looks that good. I am also going to make an E6 stemming from this project. Bob.
  14. Here is the start of an E1 bash. Bob.
  15. OK, my first project is an E1A pilot section. When I add this to my E7 shell, It will be able to transform into an E1 or E6. I will be making a urethane mold for repetition of parts. This part took 3 hours to print. Made out of PLA. Very high res. shows rivets well. Cost of printer was around 1650. Here is a video of it printing in real time, and a picture of the finished part. https://youtu.be/WYvGvE3j1Fw
  16. Something like that L1 Hudson, but can't find the stl file. I will try your suggestion.
  17. I have always said that when a 3d printer was produced that printed parts with smooth surfaces and at a reasonable price, I would buy one. Well I found it. It is a Bambu X1 Carbon. If you look at the reviews on Youtube, everyone loves it. This printer does everything for you, leveling, nozzle prep., and a bunch of other things. This is good for me, because I know nothing about these things. From what I understand, you insert the .stl file and push the button. It is multicolor, 4 colors, auto filament change, and has a camera, so if I am at Bob Evans having a cup, I can monitor it while sipping. All of the things that I didn't want to learn about 3d printing, I don't have to, because this thing does it for me. Also, it is said to be very fast and prints carbon and nylon, but I found out by watching tests on Youtube that regular plastic is just as strong as the exotic stuff. So, that's it for now, oh, I spent near 1900.00, including some add ons. Bought from the co. itself. I will get it in a couple of days, and I will share my first print. Bob. I will try to find a picture of it..
  18. Yes, I am still messing with trains and building a 24 inch model of the USS Hoga tugboat, a hero of the Pearl Harbor attack. I also designed a rotating jig for building model boats, works well. Can see it on youtube. My channel is omiateeful Bob.
  19. So a PS1 doesn't have a polarity switch? I am almost sure that this is a PS2 as it was bought at the MTH close of business sale when they shut down and they were testing this engine for future sale. Oh well, this doesn't matter as this one will end up just a dummy. I have another PA and a PB, I just have to decide what road to paint them. The PB is a Santa Fe Warbonnet, so most likely I will paint the other two as Santa Fe. The other PA is a PS3. Bob.
  20. I couldn't help it. I paid much more for this one than the other 5 that I have because this one was brand new in the package, never opened with no damage, unlike the others that I have purchased. This one will be pulled by the T1. Bob.
  21. I bought an MTH loco on Ebay and wondered if anyone has any input as to these models. It appears to be all there, just made up of different colored parts, and some are clear plastic. It has a polarity switch, so probably PS2 or PS1, I don't know. So, just thought I would share this with you. Bob.
  22. I would too Jerry and also a P42. Bob. What happened to them?
  23. Have you printed any of the P42's? Can't wait to see them. Bob.
 
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