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Here is an update to the rigid diaphragms that I putting on the stretched PS car. I ran into some rubbing issues when the diaphragm was compressed. The lift bar was hitting the center of the diaphragm, so I moved the hole on the top over about 1/8 of an inch on both sides and that eliminated the problem. They now move smoothly without any contact. I also had to enlarge the spring slide holes so that there was also not contact. I think that this is the easy answer to scale looking diaphragms. It will look 100% more scale to see that the diaphragms are in contact when viewing on the straight. Someone mentioned magnets. I don't think that would work because when entering a turn, the diaphragm plates will have to slide back and forth until stabilized in the turn. I have tried that with these and they work well. A 1/2 inch gap in the diaphragms are unacceptable. I am curious. Is there anyone out there trying this method? I haven't heard any feedback on this method. I welcome feedback both good or bad, let me hear from you please. What do you think? I came up with method because building the cloth/scale ones are really time consuming. Bob.
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Well, this project, the stretched PS car, involves quite a few of molds and molds are my favorite challenge. It is over though, I am done with most of the molds and now I am starting to build. I am working on the roof now, got the ridges off and now I am preparing to paint it. Might make a mold of the whole roof because grinding off the ridges wasn't fun. I work everyday on the trains right now. Bob.
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Nice work, I didn't know that you were a scratch builder, I guess I should get out of my shop and look around a little more, very, very nice work. Bob.
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Well engineer joe, I didn't know that you scratch built, nice work. Why didn't you say anything. I was so busy doing my thing that I didn't know. Very nice work. Bob.
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Well, I think that I have all of the molds made for the kitbash. The extension of the car, the mold for the stretched truck and parts, the roof extension, the articulated diaphragm molds, the skirt extension molds, the truck bolster molds, the paint, a close match, but not perfect. The only other thing that I can think of is the position of the trucks to make the diaphragms close enough to make contact. If anyone can think of anything else, feel free to mention it, so now I start putting everything together. Bob.
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Here are the results of the milling of the ridges. I might be .002 too deep because it is going into the paint, but that is a matter of adjustment. Primer will take care of that. I adjust the height of the cutting tool this way. Because when you tighten the collet the tool will be drawn up, so, I don't tighten the prong very tight, then after tightening the tool, then I tighten the prong, because it too will be drawn up. After some trial and error, the tool height will match the prongs. I was able to cut right up to the edge of the roof, but in areas that have obstacles, those areas will have to be done manually with a steady hand. Here is a picture. Bob. Also here is what I had to buy, a router base, and in the base is the part that is used to make the pronged part.
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OK, I put some wood pads on the prongs and they work well. It takes a little adjustment to truly get a flush cut, but after that, it works perfectly. I super glued the wood pads on and then shaped them. Here are some pics. Bob.
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Yes, and the prongs should be the same shape profile as the cutter, that way there is no way to gouge. On a curved surface, one has to keep the prongs at 90 degrees. I have found that the prongs have a tendancy to scratch the painted surface, so today I will put some wood pads on the prongs, to prevent that from happening. Obviously, the whole roof will have to be primed and painted again, but I think that touch will improve the scale of the car. I should do this once and make a mold of the whole roof, and then I wouldn't have to ever do it again. The way I made this, I went down to Home Depot and bought a dremel router adapter and in the package is an insert. You take the insert that screws on to the tool and cut the two extensions off. I then bought a copper adapter that closely fits the Dremel adapter and used bondo to fix them together. I then cut the copper fitting to the shape of the cutter. If you use a wider cutter, make sure you make the prongs the same as the diameter of the cutter. I will post a picture when I add the wood pads. Bob.
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Here is a tool to remove the ridges on the roof of the MTH passenger car. I made it from a reducer, copper, and cut it as shown. I attached it to a Dremel and it is designed to cut without gouging. The prongs are the same width as the cutter, so it will only cut when the tool is a 90 degrees. There are some areas that the tool will not fit, so those areas will have to be done by hand without the aid of the tool. I redesigned the movable diaphragms and am making molds for them. Here are some pics. and an example what the roof should look like. The Pullman standard roofs are welded seams and are flush. Just trying to make them look more scale. Bob.
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Yes, wow that's magic, Bob. How did you do that?
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Sorry engineer joe, I guess I need some lessons on posting a link. Thank you for doing that. Bob.
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Hello everyone. I put a short video on YouTube showing the movement of the MTH diaphragms. Here is the title, search--- " 1:32 scale operating diaphragm for Pullman Standard passenger car"
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Sorry, posted in the wrong place, can't delete, Bob.
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I am in the process of making some diaphragms that I have made in the past. I use cloth for the soft part with the aid of some jigs. I will post pictures of the entire procedure in the near future. I am making these for the stretched Pullman Standard cars. I have made a spring movable diaphragm, but I am going back to the cloth version for looks, although the spring system works. We shall see how these turn out. How did your efforts turn out?--Bob.
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Hi, du-bousquetaire, I would like to see some of your trucks made from the USA trucks. I have a pair and would like to see if it easier than what I am doing with the MTH trucks. The MTH trucks are nice, but about 1/2 inch too short. Here is a lengthened MTH truck. Bob.
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Thanks again Jerry, yes and I did it with a router, no mill. Here are some pics. of the diaphragm, it works. Mounted two springs behind the door. I will be able to close the gap to the cars and it will look more realistic. Also, the first half of the roof mold. Bob. Also, I found the Tru-Colors for the B&O and ordered the paint. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Here is an observation, scratch built. Bob.
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Thanks for the heads up on B&O colors. I will be operating with 10 ft. radius, but after I get into it a little further, I will let you know how tight of a turn they will negotiate. I think pretty tight, because when they turn tightly, I think they will actually move away from the other diaphragm. I don't know yet, but I will see. Bob.
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Well, here is my answer to the diaphragm problem. Rather than going to all of the trouble of constructing the fabric diaphragms that are on the right, I will use the stock ones and make them rotate. I am figuring out the springs now, haven't yet, but here are some pics, I think this will work. Bob.
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Thanks, Jerry and Jens. If I can, I want to stay with the B&O colors, if not, well something else, but thanks for the hint. The diaphrams are the stock MTH. They are nice, but they don't move, but I will fix that. Bob.
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OK, it's together, so now some paint and fill in part of the skirt and mold the roof, so not quite done yet, but close, the hard part is done. Any ideas about matching the paint? If not I will paint the whole thing. Bob. Here are some pics.
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Here is the stretched section. It came out well, even after my epoxy started to jel. It is usable. Bob Next, I will pour a fluted section.
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OK, here is the final mold for the stretch section. All I have to do is wax and apply mold release and pour the epoxy. Next, will be the part. Bob. Here are some pics.
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What happens sometimes, is that I have to wait till next payday to buy supplies, so I will work on something else to keep the momentum going. I receive urethane and stuff today, so I will continue on the viaducts and the passenger car. I am cutting out flush windows for the car today, I think they will add a little to the looks. Bob.
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Thank you. I just tried painting around the glass black and because of refraction, it makes the glass look thinner and more realistic. I am now experimenting with shades. Bob.
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