Screwy Nick

Jan, yes have my calipers at the ready, and took more measurements of things just this morning. Chuck, agree .050 and a lot to take off, but take .025 off the opposite inside of each of an .080 thick tire should be doable. ALSO, did some more playing, stalling to start the grinder as long as possible. First thing I noticed is without the main drive rods, just put it on the track it will roll towards the lowest level. Drivers #1 and #3 have no side to side play at all, and when they both are in position of the guard rails that is when most of the binding occurs. Looking at my AML K4, the center driver is blind, as is all of my Bachmann 6 drive wheeled locos. Only my LGB Mike as all drivers flanged BUT all have plenty of side to side play, and the drive rods are manufactured to allow that. Thinking of starting with #3 drivers and see what happens. How's this for odd: the drive wheels are 1.525 back to back, while the trucks are 1.582???

Jan, EVERYTHING starts with a theory. Merriam Webster: theory: a belief, policy, or procedure proposed or followed as the basis of action. Have a busy day planned, including pics, videos and Mikes. LiG EDIT: if I hold the abrasive wheel at the correct angle on the back of the tire, can not only grind but also provide the drive to spin the wheels. Can adjust the amount of grind and the speed by changing the angle,?? I just may have enough hands to pull it off.

We are on the way. The part that I dreaded most turned out to be very easy. The bolts holding the main rod did not have locktite so didn't have to heat them. This is just a test: The cradle for the loco needs to be more secure and what ever I use to drive the wheels would like to be slower than the Dremel. Tested the friction wheel on both the tire end and inside, liked the inside as it gave me more traction. Not sure if I am going to have the grinding wheel follow the rotation of the wheels or opposite, either way will add wrinkle to the procedure. So far so good, can't let my guard down, I know the Gremlins are just waiting to pounce.

This just keeps getting better and better. No stopping 3 thinking people. Chuck, your idea sounds like a lot of fun, and I'm sure will work. Jan, I have so many small electric motors, clamps, straps and other things should be able to make this work. For either scenario I have plenty of Dremel abrasive sleeves, used to grind a past companion's nails with them, and yet there's another device. Will be very busy today, but anxious to get started, and you can bet I will video the whole process. Most dangerous part will be removing the large nuts holding the main drive rods to the wheels, this will take a long time as I want to heat it slowly to soften the adhesive, when I get past that I'll be whistling along.

Jan, I LIKE. Just have to figure the logistics. Only have to disconnect the rod to the pistons, all else stays.

That the USAT Hudson? One beautiful and well running locomotive. I chose the one without sound, but everything was already prepared for it, pretty much just dropped the Phoenix in. Earlier this year had to finally replace the battery. Running the Mike externally: My thought was to remove the center screw and connecting rod from the last driver. Threading a rod into where the screw came out and driving that with a drill, slowly. I am pretty sure that will cause me trouble I don't want. Chuck suggested running it on air. I am afraid to put that much wear on the cylinders and pistons not under steam, means without lubrication. But I can't come up with anything better. I just hope the tires are made of a relatively soft metal so it doesn't have to run long to do each one. On the other hand, don't want them made of very soft metal either. Caught between a rock and a hard place. Still open to suggestions. EDIT: thinking it may not fully rotate the wheels as it would have lost it's quartering if I did it my way.

UPdate: Chuck and I are working on a plan to narrow the wheels while still on the loco. Remove the main drive rod from both sides. Tire at the tip is .080, using an external source to spin the wheels while grinding off the inner tire about .040 on each opposing wheel should bring me close to spec. Vacuum tip near the action will remove dust and also bring air flow to keep the plastic parts cool. I know if I remove the wheels and rods it will NEVER run again. Any suggestions will certainly be appreciated, no matter how far out you may think, could spark another thought. Jan, your link to that article, very informative THANK YOU.

Very striking cars, will look great behind the Trump loco, followed but the caboose of the same.

Sean, that guy uses his own name on the forums, I totally ignore him, and even told him what I think of him right on the forum. Jan, very informative, but again showing only the electric version, so I have to believe it is the same for the LS other wise I the difference would have been mentioned SOMEWHERE. I am still curious. Chuck, I will use the hot iron technique on the last wheel screw, it will haunt me if I don't, just need to work up the nerve to do so. And I'm no speed demon, just like to watch the motion no fun watching a blur. LiG

Jan, I know Jerry, he is looking to sell me his but it runs like crap and the last time he did run it, just stopped. He is also seeing my postings so if he wanted to offer something he would. Sean: that guy is a BLOW HARD and an AH. As soon as I saw the sight I got right off. Rather put a stick in my eye than give him the satisfaction that I looked something up on his site. If you have another tip, glad to hear it.

Welllllll, attempted the last driver since it was the most accessible. Started with the nut holding the rod in place. Applied as much torque as I dared, nothing. Next tried the screw holding the wheel to the axle hoping to get a peek at the configuration, again applied as much twist as I dared. I think they used some kind of 'locktite' compound on them to discourage them from coming loose. If they had used an adhesive to hold the wheels on, I tend to agree with Jan, probably a cone shaped axle. Discouraged me for sure, will have to work up more nerve before trying that again. Not a big fan of applying heat to areas that are surrounded by plastic so will have to attack at a different angle. Suggestions appreciated.

I have the same prints, looks like cones in the electric version, hoping the live steam version is different. Still working up the nerve to take a wheel off. If the axle is cone shaped the wheel will come off easily, if it is keyed in any way will take a lot of care to work it off.

Going to have to pull one off. I was thinking more of a flat side on the axle so they would stay in quarter. Diesel it doesn't matter so the cone would be good. Going to find out, just not right now, need to work up to that as I will be afraid of breaking as I believe the spokes are plastic.

Jan, two things: My caliper has a bar that shows MM's, just not as accurate as AS. The spacing is tight, best as I can see is 38.5 and a little bit more. Looks like the wheels are held on with screws, would I be over simplifying by saying just add a shim to one side of the wheels? Same side on all of course. Chuck, you mentioned that to me also a few days ago??? YES, Memory is on a greased rail.

Jan, thank you, I'll look into that. Have to convert 40mm to inches as my caliper is American Std. Don't know why US didn't go metric when it was presented. Only my generation (geezers) would have to figure the equivalent, the next it would be second nature. Just like using software gadgets, the young got it all over me. EDIT: 40mm = 1.5748in.

Jan, the plan was suggested by someone who has one, I just coppied, and it does work. Ran this morning so much cleaner that I am going to leave it just the way it is. I would imagine if I used a different oil, presently using Roundhouse, I may have to add or subtract a strand depending on the viscosity. Sounds: the bell is acceptable out doors. Next is to find out why it doesn't like the divergent side of a #6, I mean what is there not to like about a #6??

Jan, yes it is a simple displacement lubricator.

A couple of quick runs outside proved this locomotive to be the filthiest I have ever run or seen. Oil spewing like a new well. Informed by some who has one that he partially blocked the flow of oil from the tank. Makes sense as my other LS only have a pin hole metering the oil. So I added come copper wire to cut down on the diameter. Hoping for a nice day today for a test run. Can always add more strands if not satisfied.

As always, GREAT work, keep us posted on your progress.

I saw pics of his area, up to his knees in leaves. Just getting started here in Jersey. Next is a video of it in action.

Not used as much because it doesn't have the number of members as others, nor does it have the condescending, arrogance and aggressive behavior that you find elsewhere. I do post on others, but this is my forum of choice. Also if you ask a ? one of the more knowledgeable people will respond, or the most of all, Ray. The Hobby: I personally enjoy both the building/modifying and running my live steam or electric toys. Even to just look at them on the shelf makes me happy.

Watched the entire movie, didn't need to understand the words, the pics explained it all. I was surprised at how roomy it was in most areas, till it got 20 minutes into it. I think the machine you operated was 22 minutes in. Don't know how I feel about a long bolt and small plate with a nut holding up my ceiling. I know that is done in rock, but salt?? Thank you for sharing. Bug sends greetings to Max & Moritz.

Can understand your feeling about wood smell. I split stacks of fire wood and when I get cedar I'll bring it in the house till the last scent is gone, then split it again. Can't even imagine the atmosphere in a mine, not to mention the personal 'chill' of thinking where I am. Only had 1 cruise in a Sub PERIOD Dentist: don't feel alone, I think it's normal as our age number goes UP, our teeth number goes DOWN.

Jan, that is the CD that comes with the Mike, along with an instruction booklet. There is a contradiction between the Printed and CD instructions concerning the charging LED. Printed states it will be Amber when charging and the CD says Red. I have found that if the tender 24 pin connector is plugged incorrectly the LED will be Amber, when all 24 pins make contact it is Red. I too have long been one to take things apart. As a child my father had to LOCK his tools or there was no telling what would be in pieces when my parents got home. I have a love and curiosity for all things mechanical. To this day folks, some I don't even know, bring things to me for repair/replace old wire, so I am busy all the time.

Jan, this may be why: Bell and whistle may sound better out doors and at a distance.