Screwy Nick Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 following pics are the modifications I did to the Fairymead. I put glass in all the windows, and the side sliders still do, i have some cleaning up to do on the frames. Made a wood load to cover the bunker I removed the water pump in the bunker and the one way valve at the rear of the boiler. Put a goodall valve in the water filler. I figured if i have to stop to pump water from the bunker, I can just as easily use a bottle and pump it into the filler pipe. Installed the throttle R/C in the bunker, haven't yet done the directional servo, not sure I will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Follow up: I knew from previous tests that 1/4 throttle is all this little loco needs to run very nicely light @ 40-45lbs boiler pressure. When I set up the servo and linkage I made sure it had over 1/3 throttle wide open to compensate for stalling on uneven track and pulling a light load. I can always adjust it to give more. Ran it on the outside track with 3 passenger cars I built for the Mountaineer. Am I a happy dude. I won't claim expertise, only luck. Doing what I enjoy, and if it didn't work, back to the work bench to try again. Lord knows how many times I tried to make a 4 cycle engine work with the Live Steam Diesel kit that Hyde Out Mountain produces. I had all the success with the 2 cycle engine they recommended, and posted videos of it running in an RS3, but I had to try to go one step further, for sound purposes. It still is in the 'fooling around stage' on the work bench. LIFE IS GOOD. nick jr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Finished the R/C with the installation of the Fwd/Rev servo. Took several adjustments of the Johnson bar, linkage and arms to finally get what I wanted. Not much use for reverse, other than to clear the condensate from the cylinders, as I just don't trust the link and pin design that is on it to push cars in reverse, but just had to do it. I have since blackened all the throttle and F/R linkage to hide them a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 OK, just one more modification. In previous Accucraft locomotives the exhaust pipe was pinched and slots cut in the sides so the hot water, steam oil or steam wouldn't just spit up the stack. The exhaust pipe provided with the Fairymead is just an open pipe, spitting water, oil and steam directly up the stack, not a desireable thing. I'd hate to think it was designed like that just to promote the sale of an add on device. I pinched the end and filed the slots on the sided like the pics show, very good change, Not only keeps the loco clean and safer it also enhances the exhaust sound slightly, but enough for me. I seem to be having a problem posting pics this morning. I'll keep trying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 Going to try to post those pics again. And if anyone can tell me what kind of spider this is I'd appreciate it. Never saw one like it before, thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Looking good! As far as what kind of spider I have no idea...but a big ugly one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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