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Fairymead tracking fix


Screwy Nick
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some are aspousing changing springs, stretching springs, turning special washers on a lathe, etc.  

   I will demonste here and on two other forums and how to do it for a cost of $ 2.36 and a drop or two of sweat.

 A piece of pipe made to fit into the smoke box was just enough weight to make the front springs much more responsive.  

I disconnected the R/C so I can run it faster than I usually would, and to make it even more fun the track was wet as it is raining.

   The locomotive barely rocked where it used to before and I ran it faster than I would normally.   

Its so much easier to purchase something than fashion it yourself, not to mention the feeling of achevement.   

    Thank you Ray for a place for me to vent.          Stay Well         nick jrpost-9-0-71183900-1400251256_thumb.jpgpost-9-0-77836300-1400251266_thumb.jpgpost-9-0-09465800-1400251276_thumb.jpg

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A follow up on yesterday's in the rain test.

    attached a car that I built using the Ozark Miniatures specs and changed the size to 1:13.7.    

 It ran flawlessly fwd and rev with the trailing car, so i am very happy with that.   So as much as I disliked the Link and Pin couplers provided, they were just fine.

 

    I previously took the specs of the Ozark flat car and duplicated it in 1:13.7,   was sadly informed there was not such thing.

 

WELL    DO    DA

  

       Now I am going to down load the specs of the Ozark Combine and build one of my own.   As it's always stated,  My RR, do what I want.   DO  DA again.  

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I guess I never posted about the first 1:20 flat car I built,  didn't even go 12" before the front wheels fell off, no kidding.   Grateful that the locomotive was within arm's reach,  was happy to stop it right then.   I still laugh at that one.    But that won't happen again,  MAYBE.

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