blid Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I have finally got my layout up and placed all MTH PS2 engines on powered tracks to get the onboard batteries charged. When I was going to connect the 70-2013-1 F3 slave (C-unit?) to the B-unit, it turns out that the connector isn’t there. Just an empty hole in the door of the slave unit. My remaining eye isn’t 100% so I don’t want to mess around with tiny bits and pieces, but I hope that I will be able, with your help, to open the body and then get the connector back in place. There are no MTH Service Centers in this part of the world. So, which screws to unscrew and which can be left, etc. Any help will be appreciated. I include the picture especially for Jens. Bjorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I did open up an "A" unit but not the slave or the "B". I seem to remember a pair of screws in the gas tank or battery compartment?? I bet someone else could help better. If you don't get a response here, I'll open mine up and get back to you. There's usually about eight or ten screws on a diesel. These are shorter than the Dash 8s so I'd have to go look again. There are some screws that don't need to come out holding the board and switches, so you're right to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 For the F unit the ones you need to remove are the ones in the deep recessed holes (two at the front before the fuel tank and four in the rear). I can't recall off hand if you have to drop the tank to gain access to screws there. I don't think you do. If it doesn't come apart easily drop the tank. Sounds like the posts have broken off that hold the board/socket on, use some strong adhesive to reattach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Look at page #21 of your manual or here: http://mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/download/instruction/70dl11586i.pdf ​ ​ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blid Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Thank you for your quick response! I have been able to open it. Just the 6 screws Ray said and no need to remove the tank. Now I will try to do what Ray suggested in an email; get some epoxy and get the little board back. I hoped it was some kind of snap in, but the board was screwed in place. One of the “recess pipes†was loose too. Makes me wonder what has happened to this engine. I have not dropped it or anything like that. Bjorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 The loose board is something i have seen once before. The frame post isn't. Cant say on that one but would follow the same repair for that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blid Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 I did scan the manual before issuing this topic. Somehow I missed that page. It is good to know that the information was there. I have to look more carefully in the future. Thanks again!Bjorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blid Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 The F3 slave is now back in operation thanks to you. Since it is the slave I realized that I didn’t have to unplug the cable. I just put a piece of tape on it as a reminder not to unplug that end. The broken post inside is now back thanks to good advice from Ray. To my surprise it is exactly in the old position so the screw hit the hole! One more picture for Jens to show that the slave now has power. The smoke is on max, but there has never been much from these two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamPower4ever Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Lovely pics Thanks. Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I also have a few engines that smoke less than others. On some brand new ones, there was too much wick, actually plugging up the airway. I used a plastic zip tie, to move it away from the opening slightly. That allowed better air flow. One of my Challengers, just won't smoke well even with a tear down, and re-wick? I think the Hudson smoke unit, smokes better than most of my others. I'm not sure what the difference would be other than it's shape? Maybe there's a fine line in the heating element's operating temperature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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