Screwy Nick

Chuck, It appears they did just that with the Dryfuss Hudson, then withdrew the offer in 1:29, still keeping the hope alive in 1:32, but I really doubt I'll see that in my life time. Don't want to bust anyones bubble, but I used to work for a company that would put EMPLOYMENT ADDS in the local news paper of target cities to see the responds. If there weren't enough they would just move to another city and do the same thing. Don't blame me for pointing this out, it is common practice.

This is the loco that Chuck was talking about. The narrow body made for interesting mods. This was the early kit that Jerry came out with where you only received certain parts and had to get your own motor, make your own exhaust manifold and figure out your own configuration of parts. The body was completely gutted and raised 7mm and pulling a string of beer cars I think I had more fun with this than any thing I ever did. And to have even more fun I added R/C

Follow up: I knew from previous tests that 1/4 throttle is all this little loco needs to run very nicely light @ 40-45lbs boiler pressure. When I set up the servo and linkage I made sure it had over 1/3 throttle wide open to compensate for stalling on uneven track and pulling a light load. I can always adjust it to give more. Ran it on the outside track with 3 passenger cars I built for the Mountaineer. Am I a happy dude. I won't claim expertise, only luck. Doing what I enjoy, and if it didn't work, back to the work bench to try again. Lord knows how many times I tried to make a 4 cycle engine work with the Live Steam Diesel kit that Hyde Out Mountain produces. I had all the success with the 2 cycle engine they recommended, and posted videos of it running in an RS3, but I had to try to go one step further, for sound purposes. It still is in the 'fooling around stage' on the work bench. LIFE IS GOOD. nick jr

following pics are the modifications I did to the Fairymead. I put glass in all the windows, and the side sliders still do, i have some cleaning up to do on the frames. Made a wood load to cover the bunker I removed the water pump in the bunker and the one way valve at the rear of the boiler. Put a goodall valve in the water filler. I figured if i have to stop to pump water from the bunker, I can just as easily use a bottle and pump it into the filler pipe. Installed the throttle R/C in the bunker, haven't yet done the directional servo, not sure I will.

I don't know about larger shafts, the Shays use a square brass shaft and it seems to hold up quite well I also rebuilt a Chaney Heisler, he remade the engine/trans fixed so as not have to flex with curves. I made the square sliding drive shafts to accommodate the curves, NEVER had a problem with either the Shays or my Heisler. I think the looseness of the drive allowing curves and not the material was the cause of the problem. If they had used fixed trans and square interior sliding shafts like on their shays I think the problem could have been avoided. I haven't herd if the guys in the UK found a fix for theirs.

If you are looking for different springs, McMaster Carr has a HUGE selection of them. their web site pages 1242 and 1243 seem to be the size for out application.

I can't see any difference between electric and live steam when it comes to tracking. After I removed the swarf and lightened the spring on the trailing truck to allow it to swing with the track, it seemed to run so much better. I think what they are trying to correct is the slight back slant of the loco, the running board isn't exactly level. I ran mine again this morning and it is starting to grow on me. What I like the most is I can build my own rolling stock since I purchased some wheel sets, hangers and other assorted hardware that should be on the cars. I am now installing glass in the window openings and the next project will be to R/C the unit. Shouldn't be too hard since the throttle only needs 1/4 turn to reach desirable speed, so there is plenty to play with.

Ray, I found out the replacement springs are actually stiffer, to level out the locomotive??? If they are too stiff already I don't see that helping anything, unless I'm missing something. Your opinion please

Ray, The springs on this loco are so stiff they don't give at all under just the locomotives weight, I can barely flex them leaning on it, it's as if it is riding solid on the frame. They have recommended a softer spring that they will provide or can be purchased through McMaster Carr. Another problem with this locomotive is the center of gravity is much too high. The stack is huge and it is solid. Accucraft may be adept at manufacturing 1:32, 1:29 and 1:20 because they have had years of experience doing so. But now they are accepting projects 1:13, which in itself is a good idea. BUT!!!! I don't know who designed or tested this locomotive before it went into production, but I think he/she had one eye closed. And the one open was only centered on profit and not running ability or only tested it on very good track, which we all don't have. I will continue to progress on my modifications, which include R/C but will only run it on my own track, I surely don't want to watch it fall to the ground like I once did with my Lumber jack on a less than decent track.

It does look nice. just herd from a friend who also has one, intolerant of anything other than almost perfect track. Not fun if you are chewing your lip worried that it's going to tip over at any time. I am continuing making my improvements. Started installing glass last night.

I gave it a short run yesterday to test the swing of the trailing truck, and it seems to perform just fine. Accucraft has now announced enhancement springs for the drivers and trailing truck. I am almost sorry to say, this will be the last Accucraft locomotive I purchase. If their QC is that bad I have better ideas where to spend my $$. I have a list of enhancements I can apply my money to instead of something that has been designed incorrectly.

this will be my first attempt at posting still pics. you will see the CACOON that the locomotive came in and some of the loose parts that needed to be applied.l I attached the Pins for the links with chain. If I don't they will be the first things I loose. I also moved the pressure gauge closer to the window and no linger obstructed by the steam oil tank top. I removed the bunker, for a future modification. here goes Thanks Chuck

Raining like a cow relieving herself on a flat rock, Quote Mac a great guy I served with from Willis Tx, but not an exact quote. So I'm messing with the Fairymead. Making a nice wood load to cover the water bunker, which may not hold water when I'm done as I still haven't decided where to place the R/C stuff, that depends on the run time. Also going to attach the link Pins to the bumper with a scale chain, I have a tendency to loose them and this solves that. Depending on the rain, I hope to also install real glass in the window openings. I use microscope slides for that and it comes out really nice. The good part about using glass is unlike plastic it doesn't accept a static charge and attract dust, stays clean and isn't effected by the heat or the over blow of steam oil. Cutting them to the exact size and using the correct adhesive is a plus in that endeavor. Oh well instead of just talking about what I intend to do, I better get hoppin'.

Tom, they are FREE. Dealing with Accucraft one comes to expect things to need ADJUSTMENT right out of the box. Nothing I mentioned is difficult or beyond capability, nor am I the only one who has experienced them. I did have a serious problem with my first K4 Live Steam that was beyond my capabilities. They suggested I take it to one of their authorized repair techs, who also builds boilers for others. It was more than he wanted to tackle, and they replaced it. I also have Roundhouse, and mine were great right out of the box, I understand they run them at the factory before shipping and are SUPPOSED to catch any problems, but as I learned here that is not always the case. I have Regner, which after reading the problems a customer is having, their quality has diminished. I own no Aster, but would love the challenge of building one, but doubt that is in my future. Live Steam is certainly hands on, and that is part of my enjoyment. I just found out yesterday, that the bushings for the cylinder rods and valve rods were not installed at the factory. They will be shipping all owners of the locomotive new rods for them to install, or take to one of their authorized repair people and they will install them for you. SEE, the fun is ongoing.

After much more examination, found that the pivot hole in the rear truck was stamped and not drilled. left much swarf on the bar causing binding. Which in turn caused the front wheels to derail After I filed it off and greased it the loco followed the track just fine. Now to the other things I want to ADJUST. LG nick jr

Attempted a track run yesterday. The trailing truck is extremely stiff and doesn't like to swing on curves. The spring is much too stiff and was just cut and not smoothed out so the pointed edge is dragging. Going to replace it with a softer spring with out the OPTIONAL sharp edge. More to come if I can get another run in before the rains come today.

I'm all for that, no more out of gauge or wobbly wheel sets, what a relief.

You have a talent of finding things on the internet. YES THAT'S IT.

Do you mean you can't 'predict' that a part will be defective from the factory or wear out in a short period of time??? No spare parts is what I got from one of their newest distributors, they must be ordered while the locomotive is still in production. Adjust your crystal ball for FREQUENT FAILURE LOL. From what I've read in other locations, Regner has also lowered the quality of their product. I got a Lumberjack several years back, pretty much fell together and ran just great after a minor breaking in time. Poor guy just got one and it had a boiler problem and now he posted pics, the gears are barely meshing. Looks like he's getting a lot of hot air and no action. He'll have to fix it himself seems to be the final outcome. Customer Service is a thing of the past for many manufacturers and dealers, I'm sorry to say. Those of us who are not afraid to delve into something, or have the electronic or mechanical knowledge will be the only ones to really have any lasting pleasure from the stuff available from certain manufacturers, or find a reputable repair facility. I do know ONE! Unfortunately he doesn't do live steam, mostly MTH. I'll now kick the soap box under the table and get down to enjoying my trains, hope to post a video on Live Steam page later today. Joe, I photo shopped the curlers out, she didn't look any happier, so I put them back in.

The fair judgement of the Fairymead is on the Live Steam page of this forum. Enough things wrong with it to scare away those that have no idea how to turn a wrench. Since I expected the problems they came as no surprise. I didn't mention how thin the metal of the cab is, not much thicker than a pie plate around the windows. Time will tell just how bad they do get, but I won't be one to purchase it to find out. How about the new Climax that bends drive shafts and axle shafts while running. They shipped all the owners of those JEWELS new ones to replace in the US. Guys in the UK are left swinging. How flimsy could they have been made if a little live steamer could bend them. The guys in the UK straightened them out only to have them bend again.

I'll try to post a couple of pics. Between my poor pic taking ability, and my OLD Easy Share Kodak I'll do my best. I'll try to keep you in subject matter for jabbing.

Not being familiar with the make up of the BB I don't know what I'm looking for, anyone please help?? Also, having to mess with dealers is no picnic either, they will openly lie to you just like USAT did to you, PROFIT being the key word here.

Ran it on rollers. The burner lit and popped back immediately, and in a short time it glowed red hot. Past experience has shown it needs less air or the super heater will easily burn out. Easy adjustment. At 25lbs pressure I opened the throttle with the cylinder cocks open. They just sat there hissing and the wheels didn't move. i closed the cocks and did the usual, Fwd/Rev with the bar and they finally cleared. They are as useless as the ones on the K4. The burner easily kept up 35lbs pressure in the boiler, with an occasional sudden acceleration that I haven't been able to figure out why so far since it is the first steam up, Just may need some breaking in. Both valve chest's have slight steam leaks that should easily be taken care of by just removing the covers and SLIGHTLY tightening the bolts, common on Accucraft locomotives. It seems to be the Mason Boogie on a different frame, same water volume went in, same cylinder volume but twice the run time????? I need more time to also figure that one out. may have been water in the boiler when I got it as I never checked that. The throttle needs some taming as a slight move of the bar seems to have a major change in loco speed. The dealer I bought the locomotive also offers Throttle valves with more precise control, but I have a vice on the work bench that I'd rather squeeze body parts into before dealing with him again, (in the past I thought highly of him, but he has proven my judge of him to be wrong) So I will figure something out myself, or as with the above, just may need breaking in. The site glass is as useful as all the rest on Accucraft locomotives, with or without the brass or SS wire installed, just too small in diameter, not just my opinion. The burner was nice and quiet, a pleasant surprise from most of their other burners. The part I liked best is I can make a nice wood load to cover the rear tank cover, SEE it doesn't take much to make me happy.

I just assembled the Fairymead, not the one I ordered but rather than the hassle and going into what transpired between The Train Dept and myself, following is my observations of the loco: The locomotive is very top heavy and easily tipped. This seems to be due to the extremely large, but prototypical stack that is a solid casting. This brings the center of gravity way above where it should be. The stack should have been machined out to remove the excess weight. I am looking over where to maybe put some lead to lower it. Already on another forum some one mentioned he tipped his over on his ground layout, imagine the damage in a fall from an elevated layout. The link and pin couplers are the worst ones I have ever seen, but doesn't look too difficult to remove and replace with after market ones of your choosing. The roof hinge is placed exactly over the ronson gas filler valve, looks like it was designed that way, OR no one looked at it before production began. Nothing I mention here is too difficult to accomplish, just unnecessary. I haven't run it yet, but hope to do so today. My first run of any locomotive is always on rollers so I can carefully observe all movement and in the case of live steamers to spot any leaks. I have my fingers, among other body parts crossed hoping for the best.

She's a true Wal-Martian, fits right in.