Rayman4449 Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 How many of you guys have an Aristo 2-8-0 Consolidation? I'm curious if anyone that has one can post some pictures (maybe video) and share their thoughts on it. I know I saw one in Mark's video from one of his open houses but wasn't sure if someone had some vid of just it. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Miller Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Here are two videos. I also ran it on Ed Headingtons layout and for the life of me we could not get it to derail. What's up with that? I have mostly run it on battery power and can easly switch it to DC track power. Only problem is with #6 turnouts because of the under gauge at the rail points, slows up a bit due to binding. Also have same problem with AC Mallet and Mikado. Started to fix all of my #6's. That Stainless is hard to grind. I'm hoping that AC will come out with a GN Consolidation. If they do, I will buy one. Fun engine to run. Easy to handle and put on track. Good looking loco....................Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Thanks for posting Jim, looks like it runs very smooth and it does sound really good. Interesting on the switch points. I know we talked about that in the other post.. let me know if you end up coming up with a good solution to grind out the inside rail and I found like you did that SS is very hard to grind. How many here have one of the 2-8-0s? Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markoles Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Ray, In the video of the open house, that's Charlie's consolidation. He did have some issues with his. My 2-8-0 is a US Army version. I got it on a trade. I was surprised at how nice the yellow is. I thought it would be like canary yellow, but it is more like Pittsburgh Steelers gold (or Iowa, if you prefer) . The 2-8-0 gets a lot of run time here. No derailment issues or other quality control problems but I've only got about a 100 miles or so on it. Actual miles, not scale miles. Basically, don't believe what you may read on other sites. A couple of people looked for something 'wrong' and made a mountain out of a molehill. All the controls are located in the tender under the removable coal load. I like having it all there. Made the install of the revo and sierra sound super easy. The down side of this loco is the weight. It could use some more weight. Also, the wheels and siderods need to be painted, but that's why this is a hobby. The other thing I would have preferred them to do is supply the loco with a footboard pilot and front coupler instead of the flat bar pilot. But, again, not a big deal. I have not slipped a driver on this locomotive, but like on my other aristo steamers, I keep a vigilant eye out for that. Mine has performed very well. Runs extremely smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thanks Mark. I have yet to see product from any of the G scale manufacturers that is completely unusable or unreliable and there is no engine or rolling stock that I would think twice about ordering because it was from XYZ mfg as opposed to ABC mfg so I not only believe what you're saying, it also agrees with everything that I've experienced over the years. I assume there is space up in the boiler for additional weight to be added. Anytime I need to add weight to an engine I hot glue lead weight (wrapped in electrical tape to limit the spread of the lead during handling) to either the bottom or even the lower sides of the boiler if I have to. Should be more than enough room in the boiler for folks to add as much weight as they desire I'm sure. Have you added any weight to yours and if so about how much you think? For anyone interested, I detailed the painting of my Aristocraft Mallet drivers on my site: http://www.rayman4449.com/Aristocraft_Mallet_Modifications_page.htm#Painting_the_drivers I basically masked off the complete motorblock And painted with Krylon's Fusion black paint: Final result: I really liked the new look. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Miller Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Aristo has already approved an additional 2.5 pounds without voilding the warreanty.................Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markoles Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/199908_4637795472955_802620336_n.jpg Ray, I don't even bother with taping and spray painting anymore. I use Tamiaka (Flat black ) or Polyscale Steam Power black acrylic paint and a blush to paint the wheels on my locomotives. Due to our heavy use and sometimes derailments, the paint tends to chip no matter what, so I've found that this is easy to touch up. On the 610, you can also see that I graphited the smokebox. I used Gunmetal Gray to do this. Also with a paint brush. The bell had to be painted gold and the harp got black paint as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Miller Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Speaking of painting Mallet wheels. Here is my first try from a few weeks ago all done with brush...................Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Strong Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I've taken to using Badger's ModelFlex paints on the drivers of my locos. Their "gloss black" is a nice satin-to-gloss black that matches most commercial black finishes. It's formulated for an airbrush, but brushes on very well and covers great. If you derail and grind the edge of the tire against the railhead, the paint may rub off, but it's very resilient otherwise in terms of normal running. Once you paint your drivers with that paint, you can put a flat acrylic over it and it will stick very well. Later, K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Miller Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I have been tempted to brush on some clear flat for protection......Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markoles Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Raymond, Just a quick update to this thread. I was unable to resist the Aristocraft sale on Thanksgiving and ended up with a second 2-8-0, a Santa Fe version. This locomotive has operated as well as the USATC 610. I have painted the wheels with the black paint, but so far, I have no painted the side rods on this one. Somehow, the aristo metal siderods are looking 'okay' for now. I do plan to graphite the smokebox. I had intended to take the two 2-8-0s and combine them to make a 2-10-0 and an 0-6-0, but so far, have not. Again, the locomotive is a great little engine, runs well, and I really like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Mallet came out really nice Jim, same on the 2-8-0 Mark. I have too have been ok with the rods being factory metal. Now that engine might look rather interesting stretched out to a 2-10-0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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