Screwy Nick

I started to get the idea for a rotary snow plow during all the snow we got in Jersey this winter. Kind of late to start now, but WTH. I disassembled a Eureka battery upright vacuum cleaner that had lived past it's prime. While searching for plans and ideas I came across an 09 LSC article that mentioned that you RAY had built a two bladed one, with pics. In the discussion it also stated that you recommended the Eureka 12988 impeller. I found them on line and ordered 2 of them, one to break accidentally. Can you fill me in on any other ideas or recommendations you have or things you encountered during your build, thank you.

rbrown7713. i know you have put a lot of time and effort to your project, but stil have time to change it, better to make them wider NOW rather than regret it later. I have no regrets on having to change the spacing on my curves. Can run anything I want at any time. JMHO

Speed can be a factor if your are running a USAT GG1 wide open, not something I do often. It seems that many in our scale that tried it didn't have success. Many derailments possibly because they didn't ease into the banking, just like easing into a curve. I can't say what degree I used, but the final bank measured out to about 1/2" to 16" of width. I like you have a 2 track main line so my curve planking is wider than my straight allowing more room for slight hang over. Inside rail is SS and I run my electrics, for instance USAT GG1 with USAT passenger cars and one Mail/Combine. Outside is Aluminum rail for my LS loco's. There I'll use my LS K4 and Aristo Heavyweights. With both running at the same time I haven't had a miss hap yet, and I'm not fearful of loosing control. I only mentioned the loco's and cars to show the length of the cars used. That is what seemed to be the major problem, they mentioned the longer cars derailed on the banked curves. I can only attest to what I've had success with, not the problems others state that have had. Hope others chime in with their experiences. Thank You

rbrown7713, many in the hobby will try to dissuade you from banking your curves, don't loose the faith. I did mine, of course gradually entering just like the easement, haven't regretted it once. Very nice viaducts, and quite an undertaking. Keep us up on it please. thank you

Yes, the 'chuffer' is a whistle looking device that usually replaces the exhaust pipe on a live steamer. It enhances the exhaust sound and makes it louder, for some too loud for inside running. http://www.summerlands-chuffer.co.uk This web site will tell you all you need to know. I get mine through Silver State Trains in Nevada, shipping is free.

Chuck, great work as always. And Ray said it all as far as just adding weight to a locomotive, not really necessary other than to wear it out quicker for no real gain at all.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ACkmg3Y64_s?rel=0 I think this has been posted before somewhere, but it doesn't hurt to see the latest upgrades they have made. AMAZING

Chuck, now that you mentioned, it was Khando that first came out with them. We both bought them at the same time, and from St Aubins if I remember, and we discussed them at length. I now remember you and I discussing if I should purchase the Post War one, I took your advice and I don't regret getting either one of them. Joe, I tried about one month ago to find my video's and had no luck. I was specifically looking for the one about the Mason and water pump car I built and got no where, DAMN YOU'R GOOD, I better save the access point for next time some one asks me about something that I saved, THANK YOU.

I pull 6 heavyweights, and have converted all but the baggage/mail car to 6 wheel trucks, extra drag I'm sure but sure look good. I presently run an elevated track, but even when I had a ground layout the grades were barely 1% if that. I designed both ground and elevated layouts to also accommodate live steamers, which as we all know just don't have the power of a electric. To be fair, I have 'read' on another forum of one guy that claims the motors of the later versions are not as good as the ones on the original batch, but no one else has expressed that. I have been running mine for How Long now Chuck??

I am lucky enough to have both the Pre and Post war electric version, and 1 LS version. Both pull a string of heavyweights alone without a strain. I do double head them occationally just for the look. The only thing I didn't like about them is the chuff drum contacts. They get very dirty and do bounce at high speed. On one of them I replaced that for magnets and a reed switch. Had a you tube video of it, but can't seem to find any of my video's, they must have made changes.

I have been doing this for years, just never posted it. Here is an AML Live Steam 0-4-0 Dockside switcher that I did a while ago. The saddle tank part made it real easy to hide the insulated pipe under the faux tank. Again, button battery with the plastic ON/OFF device and the same battery since installation. pics attached 'Portraits not my speciality'.

Ray thank you very much. I use them even on LS locomotives that I can run a pipe to. I just install the battery in the cab with a regular plastic holder. No resistors needed to restrict current, none of the LED's I've used have ever failed and the batteries last for years. The the round clear piece of plastic with the tab above the burned holder is actually the on/off switch. I slide it under the + holder and the LED goes off. When I want it on I just slide the plastic piece out and the circuit is complete.

Several years ago (when the loco was new) I installed an LED, tinted yellow, and Button Battery to light the lamp on the Accucraft Mogul. Worked just fine for quite a long time. An occasional over fire of a butane locomotive, which is common, caused the battery holder to degrade to the point I no longer liked it, even though it still worked. I cast a new one using JB Weld, the standard JB that can take over 600'f not the quick hardening one. Be informed, JB doesn't like to be cast in an air free atmosphere. After removing the mold it still needs at least 4 days to cure to full hardness. When done, DO DA enjoy BTW, I'm still using the same battery I have since the original installation.

and another masterpiece from the master, please keep us informed.

Chuck, FANTASTIC JOB, and a great idea of making the stripes a bit bigger. I believe in the art world that is called 'selective compression' even though you made them bigger to be seen better. I will be following this one for sure, please keep us posted on your progress. nick jr

Thank You very much

it appears I posted the same topic twice on the Live Steam topic, Please delete one of them, very sorry. Nick Jr

I have installed Chuffers on several of my locomotives and have found an easy to do so without removing any thing on an Accucraft. Take a piece of Shrink Wrap, used to insulate wires, and shrink it on to the business end of the Chuffer. Open the smoke box and lower it to the area where the old exhaust pipe came out of the exhaust manifold. Through the smoke box door guide it with your finger or a pair of tweezers. Turn the shrink wrap to start the threads. The wrap is only sturdy enough to allow you to start 1 or 2 threads, but not strong enough to allow you to cross thread it on the exhaust manifold. After you got the threads started, slide your screw driver down inside the shrink wrap and tighten it down. Then just pull straight up and it will come off, and if not just slide your hobby knife down the stack to cut it off. DO DA ENJOY

I should have posted this a few days ago. I finished the car, accept for lettering, which I'm not sure just what to put on it, so I guess this is the next hard part. I'd really appreciate any suggestions as I can only draw a blank. I've already started the next build, tank cars made of PVC pipe and Bondo, THRIFTY (CHEAP) I AM. May start posting that shortly.

Chuck, thank you for the compliment. Inclement weather kept me inside this morning, so I worked on the sliding side doors. This scale is so big it is really easy to make details and functional parts. This is truly G scale, (GEEZER) so WE old guys can still build things to run with our trains, LOL

Mini Fridge for beer, mmmmmmm great idea for the caboose. Thank You

Progress so far. Now need to make the roof and the doors, which if I'm successful will be able to be opened and closed. ENJOY

just thought I'd post what it's like to glue a scratch build box car together. some times things just aren't square no matter how much planning went into it. A piece of wood, rubber bands and some different weights placed in different places will bring things into alignment. No special tools or education necessary, simply something that is really at a 90' angle. This is a sample of making a box car from plywood and strips of real oak. Much more fun than assembling a kit that so many others have. It will just take a bit longer and you can make it as you wish. Believe me if I can do it, so can you. I hope you enjoy seeing it as much as I am making it. LIFE IS GOOD.

I'm a few days into it, and am happy with the results so I'd thought I'd post my progress. I am trying a new procedure, using water based stain and staining the parts BEFORE putting together. This means a lot of planning and making drawings, cutting parts and staining before anything else. This procedure is new to me as I'm used to just winging it. I am hoping it will make the final finish smoother and easier to do. A bit more planing involved but am pretty sure the results will be very good, time will tell. Today is my first attempt to glue the stained parts together, I do hope it works as I've put many hours into it so far. I do know that adhering oil stained wood parts don't seem to hold at all, the oil forms a barrier. Bought some brass channels to allow the doors to slide open and shut, MAYBE if all goes as planned that will work as well Something I learned recently, Bass wood is harder than Balsa. LG nick jr

They are truly works of art, just too pricy for me.