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Scot, I'd like to see your progress on the boxcar kit, as i am about to start a scratch build of two of them for my next project.
I know the measurements I use are not for the 'PUREST' a term I'd rather use than Rivet Counter which seems to have a negative connotation to it. I also use what's called 'selective compression'. Some things when brought down to scale size will just disappear, so I make them a little bigger to be more visable.
What i have mentioned here will either help in your endeavor or anger you depending on your prospective.
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I found the article in SiTG, it was a purposed kit, I don't know if it was ever produced. I thought the price was way over the top. I wrote down the numbers as I'm glad I did as when I went to find the article again, I couldn't. I having the same problem right now as I look for an article I remember seeing over and over again, now it eludes me.
The door is a bit short, scales to just under 5', that and the windows were things I just winged, I call it 'artistic license'. What I did was temporarily hold it together and lay the roof on to see what I could see, and I wanted the top of the door and trim to show without having your face on the track. Using license again I intend to have the stove stack coming from the rear wall and then curving up, so more of it shows. And yes it could interfere if there was a trailing car as tall as the caboose.
Track is 45mm.
Here is a pic of a transfer caboose I built from many parts of very different scale stuff. Brought it to a running session and I thought one guy was going to break out in hives, lol.
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FINISHED: I toned down the red and the black, put on the roof and these pics are in daylight.
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I got some feed back on another forum that the RED was somewhat intense, and I feel the same way. I got a different Behr sample and added even more brown to it and this is the final result, and I am happier with it. Strange thing is it looks so different in fluorescent lighting than outside sun light.
Suggestions are alway appreciated, (criticism is also appreciated as I have thick skin and a sense of humor).
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I purchased the Hudson with out the sound board, and installed it later. There was a wiring change to be made to the smoke unit to make it PUFF in sync with the sound. If as Chuck asked, if it doesn't work at all with the smoke off, I'd check that first.
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finally painted it a dilute red. had to do the trim twice, being a softer wood the absorption was different.
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Thank you Chuck. Here's what I managed to accomplish yesterday. I installed the iron work and soldered it together to give it rigidity. Made and installed the steps from flat brass and chained the pins to the car. The pins are the first thing I usually loose, now it is just the links.
Not sure how I'm going to finish the car. I was thinking of just staining it, but someone suggested first stain then a dilute paint over the stain. Hoping to get more information on that process.
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Thank you Joe, here's my latest:
Assembled the sides to the platform. Had to install a temp support at the top as the top was 1mm out of square from the bottom, it will be removed when the roof goes on. Painted and installed the wheel assemblies, and L&P couplers. Attempting to cast brake shoes, but am doubtful of the outcome.
Cut and attached the roof trusses and made preparation for the brass railings, grab irons and stirrups.
If anyone has any suggestions they will be greatly appreciated. thank you
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I built the door and installed glass in the door and windows. I've tried plastics but found they seem to hold a static charge and attract dust.
I used a form of Crazy Glue to hold the glass in place. The glass seemed clear when I installed it. I went back a couple hours later and there were finger prints all over them
So I guess those crime programs that describe how they use that to lift finger prints are true, How Cool is that. Of course they cleaned up just using Q tips.
The glass didn't show up in the pics so I'm a bit dissapointed.
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This is actually my second 1:13 scratch build. The first one was a flat car, we've all seen them so there is nothing interesting there.
This one is a caboose that I scaled from a picture, the Fairymead locomotive and a couple of dimensions that were mentioned in the article.
It is mostly Luan plywood with a small piece of oak plywood. Most of the rest of it is scrap oak and cedar from Pic Nic tables I built for my grandchildren or others.
I did purchase some strip wood from a hobby shop this morning as my table saw insisted on trying to assault me with flying debris rather than cut the small strips that I needed.
The wheels and other metal parts are purchased from Ozark as they have a new and expanding line of 1:13 parts.
I've got a long way to go, but thought I'd inspire others to build stuff also, it is really very satisfying, along with being very frustrating at times. I do feel very proud every time I put something on the track that I scratch built.
(the flaws don't show up in the pics)
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Here's the latest I have. I replaced the rods that connect the drivers and that was easy. No one seemed to realize the rod connecting the rear driver to the cylinder rod was pressed in. Make a long story short, I did replace it using heating, grinding and other procedures that I wouldn't recommend anyone else do unless you have had experience working with other things, Chuck knows what I'm talking about, not for the faint of heart. I did replace the rods and am happy how it came out. I posted a detailed procedure on other forums (not many LS guys here but I still like to be here, very friendly and knowledgable, I will post the entire procedure if anyone is interested) it seems others are apprehensive to try it, and I don't blame them until i see what Accucraft comes up with.
TO GET TO THE POINT, I now have extra rods that I'd like to use as a detail ON THE LOCOMOTIVE, just don't know where to put them.
I can't wait for the response to that LOL BTW I do have a sense of humor and very thick skin.
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The new rods are really no bigger than the factory supplied ones, just look so since they are new and shiny.
The swap is not as simple as I had assumed. The screws that hold the drive rod to the piston rod were stripped, both sides. The bolts holding the rods to the wheels have a LOCTITE material on them (had to use caps as the spell check would only say lactate) Took a 5mm wrench and locked the wheel with a small screw driver in a driver wheel hole and let it stop at the frame, then the nut came loose. I was very apprehensive about the amount of pressure it took to loosen it, maybe a little heat would have been better.
I also found my brake shoes were bent in ward toward the wheel and outward toward the rod. I don't think it was rubbing anywhere, but straightened them out anyway.
Nice outside so I'm going to boil some water and have fun. Hope many of you do the same.
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In yesterday's post I received the new side rods with bushings. The new rods are larger where the bushing is. I also received bushing they suggest to use in place of a spring on the trailing truck, which I totally disagree with.
Simple swap. The bushings will be the item to wear instead of the bolt holding the rods to the wheel. I think I'm going to try install bearings in the old ones if I can find some that are small enough.
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I just spoke with Cliff of Accucraft about the bushings for the Fairymead. They will be arriving in Ca on the 17th and will be shipped shortly after. Good news.
I also mentioned the weight I put in the smoke box and he said that would work just fine without changing any of the springs.
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GREAT WORK CHUCK, see one man can make a difference.
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I think I saw that, but put it in a different way, the curve between the wheel and the flange???? I guess I don't understand, please help me to do so.
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I don't know how much bearing this has to our scale or this thread, but I remember seeing in an advertisement that CSX stated that each wheel has no more foot print on the rail than one dime. Looks to me like those wheels have much more foot print than that, or am I way off base here????
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OK, I'm convinced. Love the Triplex. THANK YOU
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Jim, thank you for your advice, is this person an authorized dealer???
Can I run it on straight DC and get at least the chuff sounds?? I should have asked the chuff ?? before. I am overly tempted, it will be my first MTH and first 1:32, and the first sparkie in a very long time.
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I just don't know about Ebay. I've never bought anything there, matter of fact I very very rarely go there unless directed to see something special. I'd rather get it directly from an authorized dealer. But thank you for the direction.
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Beautiful detail, even the smoke box is a slightly 'discolored' due to the heat, beautiful. Now that you have me interested in one, they are all out. Will they produce more?
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Chuck, I see what you were talking about. Another possible worry would be the very smooth curve from the wheel to the flange, make it easier for a wheel to climb up over the rail head. Very disappointing. Please keep us informed of Kadee's response.
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What I did was cut a grove in the brush where it would have contacted the rail so the actual brush was just at rail height and the rest of the brush was below the rail in the center and just outside the rail. But then again I didn't have to clean the rail since I don't use rail power on the outer oval.
My SS rail on the inner oval seems to never need cleaning. I just run the LGB Forney around once and everything is OK, year after year. I AM VERY LUCKY.
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Jim, your layout is just beautiful, and those bridge/trestles have me drooling, wish I could build things like that.
Your endorsement of the rail broom is much better than mine, I believe yours is track powered so there fore more powerful than the one I have converted to battery. Looks like you also used an Aristo track cleaning car, did you also leave the pads on the bottom to further clean the rails??? Great Accomplishment, and thank you for sharing.
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Joe, it works just fine. I usually use a Shay to push it around as the reverse motion of the brush has a tendency to push back on the locomotive and I don't know if my rod locos can over come that. Now that the brushes are lower than the rail it also cleans between the rails. Doesn't take much, only one time around, just got to be careful if any stuff wraps around the shaft, my batteries aren't that powerful to just grind it up. I only use it maybe twice a year.
I know, the stripes are not equal, looked good when I did it, LOL LOL
BTW, the curved area over the brush is nothing more than a cardboard tube that gift wrapping come in. I gave it several coats of clear laquer to harden it, and DO DA.
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