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Full Brightness all around Double LED's


Screwy Nick
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The Bachmann old time passenger cars came with track powered over head lighting.  The era of the cars required they be like a kerosene lamp hung from the ceiling, two of in each.  I converted them to LED some years ago.  Used amber LED's and even over powered them using 4 AA batteries.  Not very successful.  Came across the title ones on the Evans Design site and decided to try them.  Come in two brightness, Warm and Cool.  The Cool White, fwd end of the observation car.  It will be replaced with a warm white one and the Cool one will be inserted into the Drum Head.    Forgot to mention, they are the Nano size, also offered in Pico which is smaller.  

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Chuck, IMHO not meant for lighting large areas like passenger cars like I did.  A locomotive cab maybe but nothing larger.  I think the All Around feature would be great in things like a Caboose lantern where the light comes out of 3 sides. Will find out soon as I get my next Evans order.  The Rail Bus is going to get a lighting work over.   

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Sean, Thank You.  Forgot to mention: had two cars all wired and working, was about mid day Sunday.  Went down Monday afternoon to continue and found both cars still brightly lit.  I know LED's have minimal draw.  Installed the old style LED's in a caboose as table lamps.  Left them on and they lasted almost 2 months before starting to dim.  These are a different technology and are much smaller.   Tempted to leave them on just to see!!!   Ray, can you tell us more about the technology in the newer style LED's? They are much smaller and appear to have multiple connections to each side.

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We've all had days that just $*^#.  I had everything ready for a SunRise video of the cars with the Connie.  Everything tested good just 12 hours ago.  Lights wouldn't come on and when they did would flicker.  If I hurry can fix a poor connection and still have time.  Soldered broken wire near the battery holder and then find one of the jumpers isn't as solid in place as it should.  OK lights are now 100%.  Loco lights come on and it starts down the track, the chuffs are very erratic?  Let it run for a while in hopes just a dirty contact, only getting worse.   Had it for now, sun is up, now too late.  Found the chuff contacts are on a sleeve on the last axle, and that is slipping?  So when did that start to happen?  All fixed, now just waiting for sunset to see what the spirits have in store for me.  

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And yet another failure:  Connie ran beautifully for about 15 minutes, then became erratic and just stopped, just as the sun was setting,   GREMLINS got me again.  Testing has shown either the battery or the R/C board is the cause.  Since the whole purpose of this fiasco  was to show the lights on the cars, going to use another locomotive, and hope I have better luck.  (crossed fingers)

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The GREMLINS fooled me yet again.  Battery was fine,  R/C board was fine.  Trouble located to the front fire mans side wheel. Connie has floating wheels and side rods that allow that to happen.  The up and down play in the wheels is dampened by two springs, one under the wheel journal and one that rubs in the inner wheel.  It appears between the obvious wear on the wheel and the wear on the bar on top of the spring the wheel is now always riding high, which is putting stress on the side rods, down the line causing the motor to run slower and at times the wheels even lock up.  The opto isolator circuit  refused to operate and blow the whistle as the motor was pulling it all. I put a shim around the journal spring to limit the travel of that wheel. I am now testing on rollers and can put the full weight of the loco on the front wheels and no hesitation or over draw on the battery. Pic of IMHO poor design, can see the wear on the wheels.  Chuck,  now that you mentioned it, I wonder if they were actually power pick up's and assisted in holding the wheel up?  See how the wheels are insulated from the axles??I'll have to disassemble the loco again to see, just NOT any time soon.  DSCN0063.thumb.JPG.38079be047b04fa1a62fc8f3ca0b5293.JPG

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If you look upper right of video, neighbors bath room light came on shortly after the first whistle blow. He learned to tolerate the 1:1 trains that are about 1/2 mile away, but having them in the next yard, with sound is more than he can bare. 

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Evans has taken all the strees of having to gather and build the polarity guard and limiting circuit for your LED lighting. In additon offer a selection of LED's that far outshine the old technology.

The circuit is so small can easily be hidden anywhere and the wiring is hair tiny. I used one of their multi voltage 4 LED packages. I did have to extend all the wiring, which I found a way to have fun. I am using gauge jumper wire. Cut a length of the Rd and Bk, chucked them in my drill, held the other end, pressed the trigger and Do Da I had twisted pair flexable wire. Doesn't take much to amuse me.  Enjoy, I did, maybe the neighbors not so much, more peeking from the bathroom window.  

 

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