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Fairymead Loco


Screwy Nick
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I just assembled the Fairymead, not the one I ordered but rather than the hassle and going into what transpired between The Train Dept and myself,  following is my observations of the loco:

    The locomotive is very top heavy and easily tipped.  This seems to be due to the extremely large, but prototypical stack that is a solid casting.  This brings the center of gravity way above where it should be.  The stack should have been machined out to remove the excess weight.  I am looking over where to maybe put some lead to lower it.   Already on another forum some one mentioned he tipped his over on his ground layout,  imagine the damage in a fall from an elevated layout.

   The link and pin couplers are the worst ones I have ever seen,  but doesn't look too difficult to remove and replace with after market ones of your choosing.

   The roof hinge is placed exactly over the ronson gas filler valve, looks like it was designed that way, OR no one looked at it before production began.  

   Nothing I mention here is too difficult to accomplish, just unnecessary.   

I haven't run it yet, but hope to do so today.  My first run of any locomotive is always on rollers so I can carefully observe all movement and in the case of live steamers to spot any leaks.   

   I have my fingers, among other body parts crossed hoping for the best.    

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Ran it on rollers.  The burner lit and popped back immediately, and in a short time it glowed red hot.  Past experience has shown it needs less air or the super heater will easily burn out.  Easy adjustment.

   At 25lbs pressure I opened the throttle with the cylinder cocks open.  They just sat there hissing and the wheels didn't move.  i closed the cocks and did the usual, Fwd/Rev with the bar and they finally cleared.  They are as useless as the ones on the K4.  

    The burner easily kept up 35lbs pressure in the boiler, with an occasional sudden acceleration that I haven't been able to figure out why so far since it is the first steam up,  Just may need some breaking in.  

    Both valve chest's have slight steam leaks that should easily be taken care of by just removing the covers and SLIGHTLY tightening the bolts, common on Accucraft locomotives. 

   It seems to be the Mason Boogie on a different frame,  same water volume went in,   same cylinder volume but twice the run time?????  I need more time to also figure that one out. may have been water in the boiler when I got it as I never checked that.  

    The throttle needs some taming as a slight move of the bar seems to have a major change in loco speed.    The dealer I bought the locomotive also offers Throttle valves with more precise control,   but I have a vice on the work bench that I'd rather squeeze body parts into before dealing with him again, (in the past I thought highly of him, but he has proven my judge of him to be wrong)  So I will figure something out myself, or as with the above, just may need breaking in.  

    The site glass is as useful as all the rest on Accucraft locomotives,  with or without the brass or SS wire installed, just too small in diameter, not just my opinion.  

    The burner was nice and quiet, a pleasant surprise from most of their other burners.

   The part I liked best is I can make a nice wood load to cover the rear tank cover,  

                  SEE it doesn't take much to make me happy.  

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 Listen, I have to admit. I don't know what your talking about. I have a clue but I'd be guessing. I've never run live steam.

I'm glad U got it and hope all works out. When U can maybe post some pictures so we can see her!

 I have to find someone else to jab now that the engine came in!

I do know some about bad dealer experiences. Just find another. It's not worth your effort to deal with him.

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Attempted a track run yesterday.   The trailing truck is extremely stiff and doesn't like to swing on curves.   The spring is much too stiff and was just cut and not smoothed out so the pointed edge is dragging.  Going to replace it with a softer spring with out the OPTIONAL sharp edge.    More to come if I can get another run in before the rains come today.   

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After much more examination, found that the pivot hole in the rear truck was stamped and not drilled.  left much swarf on the bar causing binding.  Which in turn caused the front wheels to derail     After I filed it off and greased it the loco followed the track just fine.  Now to the other things I want to ADJUST.      LG        nick jr

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nick jr

Do you have to pay extra for all these problems or are they free?

If this is typical of live steam, I guess you can count me out.

Seems like this loco should be a lot better for this kind of money.

I would return it for sure.

Tom

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Tom, they are FREE.   Dealing with Accucraft one comes to expect things to need ADJUSTMENT right out of the box.   Nothing I mentioned is difficult or beyond capability, nor am I the only one who has experienced them.    

    I did have a serious problem with my first K4 Live Steam that was beyond my capabilities.   They suggested I take it to one of their authorized repair techs,  who also builds boilers for others.    It was more than he wanted to tackle, and they replaced it.  

   I also have Roundhouse, and mine were great right out of the box, I understand they run them at the factory before shipping and are SUPPOSED to catch any problems,  but as I learned here that is not always the case.

  I have Regner, which after reading the problems a customer is having,  their quality has diminished.

I own no Aster, but would love the challenge of building one, but doubt that is in my future.

   Live Steam is certainly hands on, and that is part of my enjoyment.  

I just found out yesterday, that the bushings for the cylinder rods and valve rods were not installed at the factory.   They will be shipping all owners of the locomotive new rods for them to install, or take to one of their authorized repair people and they will install them for you.         SEE, the fun is ongoing.          

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Raining like a cow relieving herself on a flat rock, Quote Mac a great guy I served with from Willis Tx, but not an exact quote.   So I'm messing with the Fairymead. 

   Making a nice wood load to cover the water bunker,  which may not hold water when I'm done as I still haven't decided where to place the R/C stuff, that depends on the run time.    Also going to attach the link Pins to the bumper with a scale chain,  I have a tendency to loose them and this solves that.  

   Depending on the rain,  I hope to also install real glass in the window openings.  I use microscope slides for that and it comes out really nice.  The good part about using glass is unlike plastic it doesn't accept a static charge and attract dust, stays clean and isn't effected by the heat or the over blow of steam oil.  Cutting them to the exact size and using the correct adhesive is a plus in that endeavor.     

   Oh well instead of just talking about what I intend to do,  I better get hoppin'.   

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