pepelpue00 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Hi; I am new to model train and DCC. These are my setup: NCE CS01 Command Center NCE PB105 5Amp Booster NCE ProCab QSI Titan Bachmann Decoder 18V 10Amp Power Supply LGB Track Backmann 2-6-0 Mogul G-Scale locomotive I have installed the Decoder on to the locomotive. When I try the light or the bell, they both trun on with no problem. When I try to get the train moving, it does not move. I hear sound comming from the motor, but the locomotive does not move. I checked the voltage on the rails and it is at 14.3v. The voltage should be 18v, and I know I can increase it to 18v by turning the DCC voltage adjustment pot on the PB105 booster. My question is: is the low voltage to the track the reason that the locomtive is not moving? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 I would apply a small amount of DC voltage directly to the motor and see if it runs. Maybe something's binding like the linkage or similar. Do you have an inline fuse protecting the decoder inside the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benshell Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Hi, is there any chance you accidentally pressed some function keys you didn't understand... specifically one for "shut down"? I think it's F9 by default, but I forget because I'm now carefully to remap the function keys and remove this one! "Shut down" only affects the motors, leading to the situation you describe, and worse of all it persists after power is lost. So it can really get you thinking that your locomotive is broken. I say this from experience! I went through the decoder reset procedure once after I thought it was broken, but all I really needed to do was use the "Start Up" function (F6, I think). I love DCC and use mostly QSI decoders, but I really wish this "feature" didn't exist! About the voltage, how are you checking voltage? Unless you have an oscilloscope or DCC meter you're probably using the AC setting of a typical voltage meter which will read out less than the actual peak voltage. I think mine usually reads about 14 or 15 volts AC when it should be more like 20-22 volts with my setup. In any case, even if it were only 14 volts that'd more than enough to get the motors running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Wow, I forgot about that shut down thing. I think it was in the Atlas gold HO engines I had too. It bit me once and I thought the engine was dead. After pressing start up, all was good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepelpue00 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 enginear joe, benshell, thank you very much for your suggestions. I will try the start up option as soon as I get a new booster. I was thinkering with the booster to increase the voltage and all the sudden the back of the booster caught on fire and now there is a big gap on the copper connection by the input and output voltage site. I like to ask if this anomaly with the "shut down" presist even after the system is turned off and disconnected from the electric socket, since this has been happening for about 5-6 days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Yeap! You've told the engine to shut down. So it's acting like a real engine. You must press the start up function key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Strong Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hadn't thought of the shutdown "feature" on the QSI as being a possible culprit. I map that sucker to something in the 20s so you've got to really know what you're doing to trigger it. (On my past two installs, I just unmapped it completely, as I don't use it. My "shut-down" is the power switch on the locomotive.) Hopefully that's it, and it's not the gear as I described over on MLS. Speaking of which, if you go to test the wheels to see if they're free-rolling or not, don't force them too hard. If they don't move, you're in good shape. Trying too hard to make them move will ultimately prove successful, then you will have to replace the gear. Sorry about the fireball, though. That's a lot more expensive of an "oops" than a broken gear. I use the Quantum CV Manager software to program my Titans, so I haven't a clue how you would re-map the shut-down function to something else just using the CVs. It's probably in the gazillion-page manual. Later, K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepelpue00 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thank you Kevin for the information. Well, I tried the wheels, they are a little stiff, but they do roll when I lightly push the locomotive on the track. I am hoping I dont have to open the unit(if so, this would be the 9th or 10th time that I have opened and close the unit), but I will not find that out until next tuseday, when I get my new NCE PB110 10A Booster. Then, I can try out the start up function key, and hopefully it will do the trick. I am somewhat skeptical that would solve the problem, since the locomotive never moved, not even once since I installed the decoder, even though the lights and sound were functioning. I will keep you guys posted. Thank you guys for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benshell Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Thank you Kevin for the information. Well, I tried the wheels, they are a little stiff, but they do roll when I lightly push the locomotive on the track. I am hoping I dont have to open the unit(if so, this would be the 9th or 10th time that I have opened and close the unit), but I will not find that out until next tuseday, when I get my new NCE PB110 10A Booster. Then, I can try out the start up function key, and hopefully it will do the trick. I am somewhat skeptical that would solve the problem, since the locomotive never moved, not even once since I installed the decoder, even though the lights and sound were functioning. I will keep you guys posted. Thank you guys for all your help. That's pretty crazy your booster went up in flames! I also have an NCE 10A booster, although now I'm just using it on my workbench since I've switched to MERG 10A boosters for my layout (mostly because they are a lot cheaper and I needed three of them). Do you also have a circuit breaker? I'm using a PSX circuit break with my NCE booster since it doesn't have built-in protection. Anyway, if the "start up" function doesn't do it, your next step is to reset the QSI. Read the manual for the instructions--you can do it with CVs or with a magnet and a reed switch. I've found the reset procedure to be really finicky so it might take a few tries. If all else fails, I'd disconnect the motors and hook up the QSI to a spare motor or 24V bulb. Then you'll be able to find out if it's really a decoder problem or might be something binding in the locomotive (doesn't sound like it) or a loose connection somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Aren't those locos equipped with all plastic gears? I don't know them. I'm just wondering if the teeth could be all chewed up and binding? I thought he posted that the decoder tried to get the motor to turn or I'm guessing that much anyways. I'd be more methodical with trouble shooting this after seeing flames for any reason!!! Let's use fuses guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyborg1 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Joe, good call on checking those drive gears! I think there is a high probability in that his engine does have the plastic gears and Bachmann is known to have had issues with their drive gears cracking and breaking. (However, in their latest produced engines they have gone to metal gears.) The poster stated that the motor was making sounds but did not move. So it must be getting power? He also stated that while the engine was a little stiff, it would roll on the track while being pushed lightly. I think I would be checking those gears first before going to much further. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Strong Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 If the wheels turn, the gear's broken. Sorry, my friend. It's gotta get fixed. It may not be broken all the way through, but it's loose enough to where it's spinning on the axle. I've repaired one that wasn't broken all the way through to the edge with a brass sleeve on the hub of the gear and copious amounts of JB Weld, but--frankly--I'd just order the replacement gear from Northwest ShortLine. The good news is that you don't have to open the locomotive up, just drop the axles to get to the drive box. Follow the link I posted on MLS for step-by-step instructions. It's actually pretty easy to do; the hardest part is keeping the Stevenson's valve gear together. Have some tape or small clamps handy. Later, K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepelpue00 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Thank you for the information. I was hoping it would be something simple, like the "shot down" function. The booster would not get here until this coming Tuesday, So, in the meanwhile, I guess I will open the gearbox to see if the plastic gear is broken. If the gear is broken, it kind of stinks, since this is a brand new locomotive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyborg1 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I can understand you being a little disappointed and upset especially with a new engine! But rest assured you aren't the only person this has happened to; it had been a chronic problem with Bachmann for many years. Apparently their gears were made with the wrong type of plastic that would become brittle and just crack and break apart irregardless if used much or not. My suggestion is to follow Kevin's advice. First check the gear. If that is the problem order the correct gear from NWSL and then you'll be good to go! Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Strong Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 The good news is that Bachmann's gearing has improved dramatically in the 12 years since these locos hit the streets. They've gone to (mostly) all brass drives now, and haven't had gear issues with their newer locos at all. The bad news is that the 2-6-0s, 4-4-0s, and outside frame 2-8-0s are still available as new from dealers, despite not actually having been actively produced in a good number of years (thus not yet "improved" by Bachmann with higher-quality gearing as they've done with other locos). The prevailing theory is that these gears crack and weaken as they age, so a "new-in-box" locomotive that's been sitting around unopened for 10 years may very well have a broken gear without having ever turned a wheel. Frustrating, absolutely. But take heart in that you're in good company, and there are plenty of us who can help you if you need it. Later, K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Here's the best site I ever found for working on Bachmann Big Baulers http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepelpue00 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Hey guys, it was the gear. I replaced it, and all is good now. Thank you for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyborg1 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Appreciate you getting back and letting us know what the problem was and that you resolved the issue. Enjoy that new engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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