enginear joe

No better answer from me. It almost seems like they change with the type or when they were made? Hard to tell unless you pick the exact prototype of each car. I think some models are overdone on the end curves. More slope on the long center bottom panels but still not much. look how curved this model ends are

Like all these chemicals, have a fan blow the fumes away if you glue a big surface or you'll feel it.

I tried several things and they all failed. Take some small scraps and try Gorilla Super glue on them. Let them dry for 24 hours and then try to rip them apart. I won't use anything else anymore. Just not on windows.

The vents I model on modern diesels, are folded screens mainly. They act as air intakes or vents in real life. There are (something like) the vents you're modeling here on the rear sides of the SD70ACE engine I built. Much less parts involved. Mine are slightly skewed if you stare at them straight on. I have never attempting making the window shades on the insides of my passenger cars. I think that alone would make me go crazy!

For me, the hardest part of scratch building is getting the small details right. I like how you handled this. I should know to build a jig to take the error out of handling these small vanes.

I saw a familiar G scale train in a siding at a club. It had modern military vehicles on it's flat cars. Every time I see that train, it reminds me of where I left off on building my own. Some G scale was for sale spread out all over the show. I picked up another G scale auto carrier from Ro while I was there. He had great prices on near everything. I forgot to look closer for any spare body shells for my bashes!

Well, I may give up hope for new MTH that interests me. They didn't even bring any G scale to the Big E train show. I find that frustrating.

could you use those as fill holes or squeeze out holes if the mold is a squeeze mold? If a fill mold you could then cut them to size after the pour? I maybe way off as how you are planning this one? I picture the side laying face down with these protruding upwards.

I never thought of reinforcing the mold to prevent sagging! I even have much smaller molds that deformed and made the part useless. That is great thinking!

I don't know how this happens? It wouldn't sell in HO. I haven't seen that even in the cheaper cars out there in O scale! So why in G scale? There it is.... pictures below A modern modeler won't buy a reefer that was made before refrigeration units. An older era modeler won't buy it with a plug door. So.... who was it made for?

Looks great!

This is what HO scale gets for pilot detailing: this is the pilot detailing we get I didn't show the whole front of the pilot, and that's a good thing! There's nothing to see except a big hole. as far as the MTH one gauge flat cars being modern? Really? I have to disagree. Don't even talk about the reefers that look like they are from the "ice age"!! (to me)

Talk to Ray!

Larry, Seeing that there's no "like" your post button here, I have to say great choices and I'm jealous again.

https://www.trainli.com/LGB-20232-20230-2_4_0-engine-p-316 and http://www.allaboutlgb.com/lgb replacement gears.html are just 2 from a quick search https://www.onlytrains.com/model/railroad/MR-P.html

What 2 Dash 8s did you order Larry?

I look forward to anything they release. I think we are overdue to get a new piece of modern rolling stock. I'm not sure about the V01000 coming again as I believe there wasn't much interest? I really believe a more modern switcher like a EMD MP15 would have done better. I have been wrong before. There always seems to be the most interest in steam era stuff. Someday that will change. The V01000 is a great little engine that many overlooked though. Two of them will pull a really big train. They will run on very small layouts too. It's old for my tastes, but I learned to like it. It's fun to run. I bought just about all the old era stuff that's been made by MTH. When I started, I only wanted modern stuff.

Thank you! I thought it was something I could buy for a regular router. Something more like a fluted spiral cutter. (whatever they're called?)

What in the world is a drag knife? Going to be great.

Someday maybe we will get some new products from MTH in gauge one? I'm glad for anything we get. I look forward to the re-runs to get what I missed. The timing of this last catalog hurt as I was busy expanding my track supply. I also had to convert from brass to stainless rail clamps. I did manage to get a Big Boy. One thing that I'd like to model is the Susquehanna stack trains that ran back in the late 90's I believe? They had SD45's in their paint but that wouldn't work, unless MTH makes a version. Then, they acquired dash 8s and MTH released a version that I missed out on because I was out of work. So maybe they will release them again? https://mthtrains.com/70-2030-1 They got SD70MACs later on too I believe? Anyways I would also look forward to any type of modern stack cars from MTH in gauge one. The USA version looks good. I think they are too light and need better trucks like their newer cars. Usually in O scale, if someone is releasing a new product, MTH challenges them with their own version. They don't seem interested in making any modern rolling stock in G? Most of their line-up is from the steam era so I understand. I just keep rallying for anything I can run with my MTH Dash 8s! Maybe someday a premier level release will come in G too!!!

money is still tight right now so I haven't moved forward with any type cutters. I have also avoided any 3D printers hoping for better printing and lower costs. I wanted to get that type of Cricket cutter to make vinyl masks for painting. Didn't think it could cut styrene.

Thanks to all, and Happy New Year to you! I do have at least all 14' curves or bigger outside. Inside the house is much smaller, 10 and 11.6' curves. Almost all the switches are Aristo stainless. The guide rails aren't the best on those. If I own an engine, it is going to run. I have no use for anymore shelf queens. I do understand that many brass engines have delicate parts that break off if mis-handled. Every year I try and re-level all my layout outside to insure that there's no major dips or sagging ballast sections from winter's wrath. There's always some that I can't eliminate. BTW I'm in Lewiston, NY

The DCS signal will travel good wherever the power travels well. There are limits to the amount of track and connectors to be used per channel. Brass track should be cleaned as well. Good track connections are a must. Brass connectors tend to corrode. So at least use conductive grease and maintain them. Also, there are a few rules with DCS to follow. Mainly you don't want the signal to double back on itself. A full loop of track should be electrically broken in at least one spot for this.

Nice looking hopper SP XL! I guess if you won't do another than I will skip it. I wanted to modify a Aristo 2 bay too.