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WOO! WOO! WOO!
Well that's supposed to be a cheering session. I struggle with slang's spelling too.
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found the source of all my latest issues in the basement. I should have known but I forgot. The TMCC base interferes with my O scale 2 rail DCS signal. The TMCC is on a separate 3 rail loop and it's own TIU. They share a common Z4000 transformer.
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I'm just thinking ahead here. Will you have decals made? I have read posts of gold letters that are dry transfers and you rub them into place. Then spray a clear coat over to protect them.
I have to imagine that these engines in that time period would get real dirty, real fast? So I don't know if you wish to weather or model her clean, as delivered?
Anyway you do it, she is looking great to me. I took another look at a brass version today but I can't afford it right now. Maybe in a few years.
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I decided to try another device since someday I discard the remotes. I had previously loaded the premium app into my devices
(and charged for both and extra $25 for the tablet that I expect should be refunded?).
So today I try my tablet for the first time to make sure it can run trains. I found that the app is missing several features that are on my phone?
I can't set the max speed for example and other stuff is missing on the settings page. Only the top 2 things are available there.
here's a picture (tablet on the right):
and guess what! ( for anyone following my problems)
The tablet won't find the Z6 Challenger that's in slot 12. I keep pressing add MTH engine. It comes close and will have a #12 on the screen sometimes. then it always says no engine to add. The picture above shows that same engine running with my phone.
The tablet did find both diesels on channel 2 of the same TIU and I made them into a consist. It ran those fine.
I just can't set the max speed or other controls on the settings page.
Maybe I didn't get the full app loaded???
Edit: Well, I must be wrong about MTH upgrading the newest app?
I thought we could now control consists like max speed, acc/dec rates, etc.? I guess not?
Volumes on trailing units are all up full? (horn, bell, etc.?)
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After working on my Evo with charging lights, I think I need the lights already installed by someone else. I'm just too sloppy.
Yours do look good though!
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I had my main TIU for O scale get locked up today. To speed the story up I had to upgrade to 6.1 to use the premium app and fix things. Just incase anyone here has issues. Use the latest of everything together.
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At about 9:43 in this video, Mike Wolf shows the latest MTH G scale stuff that's arriving.
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WHOA! Now she's really beautiful!
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I like an idea that Ray Manley gave to us! I took some penny rolls and wrapped them in tape. I then hot glued them over the truck areas on my diesels or in the fuel tank. For about three dollars you add a lot of weight. I take into consideration what other weight is there like the speakers. I try to even up what each truck will be loaded with.
On the articulated steamers, this can be tough. The front truck of articulids won't load evenly from this added weight. You have to add spring pressure to get the weight to apply to these axles.
Your design does not need that. So I'm am interested to see how she pulls. Regardless she is looking great.
I look forward to see her in her PRR paint and decals. There's something extra interesting about what PRR ran. I have to build one of these someday soon, unless I can get one of those high dollar ones.
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Brilliant!
the details are really standing out now.
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I am not positive of the full effects when the voltage gets too low. The caps act funny and the volume does drop off. I would think the board is good above 12 volts and 14 is probably what to shoot for minimum? I'm also not sure of maximum volts. I shoot for 24 volts on my meters. At the track it's already lower like 21? with wire and track resistance. When you get too much, the boards start acting flakey. If you could regulate the volts at say 18, I would think that would be optimum? I forget that you still have to power the TIU in the chain.
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Shew! sorry about that
this speaker gives a good basic all around full range of sounds
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-2-fullrange/peerless-tc6fd00-04-2-full-range-paper-cone-4-ohm/
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Well... we know that the minimum impedance the amp can drive is 4 ohms. So you can look at 4 ohm speakers, or 2 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel.
Specs of each speaker only give a small idea of what they will sound like. Efficiency, free air resonance, etc.
I am a big JBL fan after working in the rock and roll field for so many years. Their 2 inch horns have been state of the art for decades. A lot of guys go with specs and their sound systems sound that way. Very harsh or tinny sounding to me.
What I can share is that the sounds of a speaker need to be heard to determine if it will satisfy you. All the best specs mean nothing to me.
I know that only makes it tougher. The good news is there are many low priced speakers coming available that make it easy to pick from.
The speaker Ray has on his pages has good overall sounds for a very reasonable price for example.
I don't care what all the other users post about their choice of speakers. If it pleases you, you have done right!
If the stock speaker from MTH included in their kit pleases you, just go with it. Adding the stock type speaker enclosure assures a basic consistent result.
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https://www.parts-express.com/cat/mini-speakers/27
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/fullrange/
various electronic suppliers also have them.
IE:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/audio-products/speakers/156
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Ummm ohhhh. errrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I have never wired an engine up to battery power! Ray or Chuck here maybe will help? I have to imagine it's straight forward though. Polarity to and from the TIU should be observed. PS3 won't care about it (other than direction).
PS3 engines have a funny thing that they start with a very low volume. When the caps get full charge, the volume goes to regular. Now if you have a pot wired in, that control the volume in conventional use. That also dictates the starting volume in command some how.
Putting the speaker in a baffle always is better than open. The sounds can cancel themselves if the front of the speaker is allowed to mingle with the rear too much. Porting is a whole 'nother subject!
I like using 4 ohm total, aftermarket speakers with these boards. It gets the most out of the smaller onboard amp. Finding one with some deeper bass and low free air resonance is the key and to fit in the space.
The stock upgrade kit speakers aren't the best available. They provide some clear basic good sounds.
I recently found some $2 4 ohm 2 inch speakers for O scale. They sound better than most stuff out there. I bought a (mid priced $20?) higher end peerless speaker for my O scale 3rd rail Niagara and the bass is much deeper than many others. If you don't mind spending a little more there's a lot to choose from. I haven't tried the big dollar ones yet.
OK, sorry. I'm rambling. Let me know what else I can do.
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The sounds of articulated steamers run in and out of sync. Don't confuse that with timing to the drivers. It's just an attempt at making it sound right. For it to be exact, you'd have to have input from both engines.
Now if you are seeing problems with speed or sync being correct, it usually is just the spacing of the tach being off, or a bad tach or wiring to it.
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Yeah Baby! Now she's there.
Hay. what happened to the speaker baffle?
If she runs in reverse first in error, swap the motor wires.
Very nice. I can't wait.
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I was staring right at the Hudson and the Bigboy at the York train show a few years back. Both were on sale at a big discount. My girl dragged me away and said "don't even think about it".
It's funny, for years now I keep thinking about that!
I would think there would remain a market for the Hudson as many don't have min 20' curves????
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Rather cool to watch these things the first time. Seems like some wasted ink on the test page though. It is great to be able to do this for builds. I paid out some big dollars for some custom ones before.
I need cut vinyl stripes, letters and/or stencils or decals for my Amtrak F40PH. I tried to get some and couldn't.
I left it black until I get the masks and I can shoot the next color. The build went on hold and I forgot about it. I finally got some colored decal paper for the stripes and never cut them.
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Whoa, beautiful job on that tender! That HW looks great too. Amazing work here. I'm very impressed again. I have a long list of modern diesels that I want to build or buy. I would add this set-up to that list.
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I always check for updates and make sure that they do get installed. Seems like the hacks shut down the updating first. The fact that this is staying current gives me hope that all's well.
Ooops, I manually checked and now there's new updates. I see that it did the last check yesterday and nothing new.
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I had malwarebytes when my last computer took a dive. So I wouldn't trust that for protection.
My favorite was Norton who not only wouldn't help me after being hacked, they demanded that I pay them for their continued service for another year into the future as soon as I would get a new computer!
I think after Mcafee sold out they only wanted new subscription payments as well without making their program improve with modern threats? It comes preloaded with the HP computer. It took a dive within months.
Seems like some anti-virus programs come with a virus preloaded?
I usually get about 2 years before they get taken over. Must be from some friendly adversaries that don't like my replies?
or I'm just an easier target?
See, now you got me rambling on and on........................
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