Rayman4449 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 One issue I encountered on my layout for some time was the periodic issue of rolling stock (freight and passenger) wheels occasionally hitting the frog point and sometimes derailing when entering the mainline from the side of the switch. After watching the cars go through the switches and doing some testing I determined that the wheels were being allowed to move too far over when going through the frog allowing the wheel's flange to catch, sometimes ride up on and others derailing on the frog. The cause of this was the flange rail guide on the other side (other rail) for that path wasn't over far enough (closer to the other rail) to actually touch the passing wheel and thus guide the wheel/truck through the frog properly. As you can see in the first photo, the flange guides are already as close to rail as possible as the bottom of the rails are touching. Here is the original flange guide configuration: What I found necessary was to remove the flange guides and grind down the lower base of the flange guide rail with a bench grinder to allow the top rail of the flange to be moved close enough to the outer rail to actually have an impact. As a part of this I gave the flange guide a slight bend and ground down the top edge of each end to provide a little more gradual transition. On the bottom of the switch, you may need to open up the retaining screw hole in the tie so you can slide the rail over. Here is the final result: To determine the desired position, I took measurements of the back to back distance between the inside of the wheels of my diff mfg engines & rolling stock and picked a test car that was representative of the group and did testing. (particularly I used a car that was giving me a problem) The key was to move the flange out just enough so the rolling stock that was giving me the problem was properly guided through without causing binding with it or any other cars. This actually was fairly easy and found it to not be that big a problem to do. If you set it up so it just takes care of what you need for a specific car, you shouldn't have issues with the rest of the fleet... there will be enough play to allow slight variations in other engines and cars so that it works fine. Since the modification I've been perfectly happy and have had no problems. Love my affordable Stainless Steel #6 switches Hope someone finds this useful. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 hmmm my linked images aren't showing up. Posted a question to get help on how to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Fixed it, when entering the URL when using the image button, you have to use the http:// before the www. for it to work. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Nice work Ray. Is that an Aristo? I'm looking at alternatives because I never got any. Wonder if they'll be able to make any more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Ray, I have one #6 that gives me problems with couple of cars. Going to do your fix and bet it doesn't happen again. ??? if I may, is that roofing shingle under your track?? I have an elevated track and would like to do something to make it look a little more realistic instead of just decking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks Joe. Yes it is Aristocraft. I didn't realize they were out of stock on them, hopefully they will make another run here at some point soon because if I needed more switches I would buy more of these. The plastic has held up well after years in the sun and have felt they are well made. Nick, I bet it probably will fix it too. That is shinle under the rail. I went with rolls of 'rolled roofing' that I got from Home Depot. Each roll is 35ft long and 36inches wide so it allows you to minimize the number of pieces and therefore the number of seams you have so it gives a pretty uniform look. Overall, I've been very happy with the decision to use it. For more info you can see my Modifications/Repair page and see the Layout section: http://www.rayman444.com/Roadbed.htm Hope that helps. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Ray, thank you, going to your web site and check it out, very glad that it comes in a roll for as you said to minimize the seams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Ray, did the guide rail adjustment yesterday, PROBLEM SOLVED. Hope to stop at Home Depot or Lowes for the roofing material, really like that look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Miller Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Another issue with these #6 turnouts is that the track gauge is way to small at the end of the rails that swing in to position for changing direction. I'm in the process of grinding mine so they swing further away into the side of the fixed outer rail. with a combination of grinding the end thinner and and reshaping it so it fits better into the recess of the fixed outer rail. I hope you are following me because I have no photos yet. The out of gauge is very obvious when operating Aristo steam. The pilot wheels on my malley rise up as they pass thru the switch. My Mikado slows as it binds going straight thru, same with the new Considation. I have 8 of these I'm working on. Slow work. Just got some diamond grinding wheels for my Dremal, hope this will speed things up...................Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Glad to hear that helped Nick. Let me know what you think on the roofing material too. Good point on the switch points Jim, that was something else I looked at a bit but never really turned into a full fledged project. The little bit of grinding I did on the rail was so difficult because it was stainless steel I got one switch to a certain point and stopped. I'll be interested to hear and see what you used and how you made out cause I would like my points to recess back into the side of the rail some. Raymond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant-Kerr Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Check your Back to Back wheel settings as well. I use the G1MRA standard. Been around for a century now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 I was wondering if it would be easier just to replace the guides with a softer metal so they can be ground easier? On most real switches these would be more rusty and a different color anyways? Might be more work? I finally got a few of these switches and need to play with them to see what's going to be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 I guess they could be replaced. I found that using a bench grinder it made quick enough work of the SS. To use another piece of metal you will have to have to drill and tap the bottom to secure it to the ties so in all honesty having done the above modifications I think trying to use something else would be far more work to accomplish. Just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Yeah, I figured it might be. I like the idea of your mod Ray. I just figured this material is tuff to work with. Maybe I could buy the guard rails from Aristo out of brass or aluminum already drilled and cut?? I'm thinking I'm going to need a new grinding wheel otherwise!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Well I looked over the several used #6 Aristo switches and they all appear to be made the same. The flange guard rails don't seem to do much to guide the wheels thru. It seems like I'm missing something because I have a Switchcrafters switch laying here and the rails web has not been grinded off. The guard rail is just 1mm narrower and yet it keeps the wheels on track. The whole switch seems to make things smoother. I have to force the wheels to use the guard rail on that one anyways. I'll have to check all the measurements to see if there's more going on. Something in the frog design?? I got the Aristo drop in frog plates and will see what they do to help. I would think the guard rail ends should be bent a hair more as you also show Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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