SteamPower4ever Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 I have no experience with battery operation and any possible advantages, but I think I'd go with unpowered NWSL trucks with current pickups from the wheels. Saves the trouble with recharging. Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I rum my MTH trains on SVRR code 250 track and have no problems at all. My switches are also SVRR and no problems with the sliders on them. Their ground throws are great also, I always broke the othery type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Why not just put a plug and socket connector between the powered A units to the unpowered B unit to power the smoke units?? I do that for my USA F3 AA powered units to multiply the power pickups so it is stable over uneven track or turnouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Still dreaming about those F7s - and adding sound to the B units: In real life, how were the engines of an ABBA lashup started? Did the engineer start the motor in each unit one by one, or was there a central start button (or whatever) in the lead cab? Jens Start them one by one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I just got a Triplex with the sliders removed. It has so many little problems to work out, it's hard to tell yet. I think it will run good without the sliders. I just have to get the issues worked out to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamPower4ever Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Start them one by one That I will do. Thanks Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamPower4ever Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 @Joe: The ATSF warbonnet unit in your earlier post - that's an F3 by MTH, right? It looks much better than any picture I've seen before ... Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Jens, yes that is. I got a set of MTH NP F7s now too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamPower4ever Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 I got a set of MTH NP F7s now too. From the "2013" batch? Edit: Never mind - I got NP mixed up with NS ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Nope! Northern Pacific. Older set 70-2042-1 I'd post my U-tube video of it but my browser won't work with this site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hi : I have since my last post on this turned down the flanges on my F3, and to my surprise this was a very easy proposition to do, I did the whole A-B-A set in one rainy day. It had become necessary because I am improving some 30 year old track which I run on which has oak ties. I am using copper electrician wire to make U shaped rail fixings (spikes) these are inserted into 4 holes drilled in new oak wood ties from the underside and are just bent over the rail flange, making a very sturdy rail to tie fixing that wont slide out and will permit me to renovate my original track by inserting one new tie between each older ones. This will also make my track look more US style with much closer tie spacing. Anyways the old deep MTH flanges bumped slightly when going over that test section so I decided to turn them down too. The original MTH wheels are nice when you reduce the flange depth, no need to put NWSL wheels on them instead. These are made of a nice easy turning brass. I started by the wheels on the dummy B unit. I took one wheel off the axle with a drill press. turned the other wheel by trimming off the excess in four or five passes, then with a metal file putting a v shape on the back of the wheel (around 15°) and then rounding off the flange with the file. Then punch that wheel out and press on the other repeat and your done. To do the loco I kept the last dummy axle on which I pressed all the wheels of both A units, ditto. You have to make light cuts so as not to start the wheel turning around the axle; if your tool grips the flange pull it out. it only happened a few times and with attention it is very easy to do. I do it on my brass mth car wheels (impossible on the gray -Stainless? ones). And have even done my first Accucraft wheelset for one box car. Have 9 more to go... As I do live steam and still hope to scratch build a live steam lockey or two before meeting with the great chief, I have bought a lathe and am learning how to use it, these are fine beginners exercises. Sorry I didn't make any good close ups of the loco. Will try to do some to post. I had a pretty small modeling year as I had to take care of my father who was very bad with Alzheimer. He passed away last fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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