enginear joe Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I know a lot has been said about the ability for the new MTH engines to have DCC on board. I'm sure it will help out a lot of people. I run DCS myself, so the only thing for me is that there's no polarity switch anymore. I really didn't mind having it anyways. If I turned the loco around, I threw the switch. I think the biggest thing that would help the toyish look of the MTH Dash engines, would be to address the pilot area better. The rest of the engine I'm very happy with. It strikes a great balance of detail, yet remains rugged. The huge hole in the pilots and the snowplow, to accommodate the long truck mounted proto coupler is an eyesore to me. MTH includes extra pilots for guys who wish to have the pilots fixed to the body. That's the first thing I do when I get one. I wish these pilots came with hard mounts for the couplers. USA and Aristo diesels have their couplers mounted to the bodies. I've been contemplating mounting all my MTH engine's couplers to their bodies. I think it would be easiest to make some type of coupler mount and then cast it for making duplicates. I just wish MTH would consider doing this on future releases. I would pay extra for this upgrade. I maybe opening a can of worms, making new problems with tracking. I'm hoping it will work better when hauling huge trains and baking them up. I'm using helper engines on the rear of the train anyways. So the couplers don't see all the forces they could if the lead engines were on their own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Joe, I couldn't agree with you more. I use standard ABS sheet and glue the new mount to the frame using ABS black glue from home depot. The glue bonds like concrete to the MTH frame, so make sure you've got it close when you bond it in place.. You can now install KD820's, or whatever coupler you like, using (2) 4-40 screws. Just drill and trap the new mount.. I don't like the KD adapter that MTH provides. It causes the engines to be coupled way too far apart. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 I'll have to try that black glue. I've been using Gorilla super glue since it was recommended for Korber buildings. I noticed that my other superglues and even a special solvent glue I got from the plastic supplier, crack off and fail. I tried my pipe solvent with purple primer, and wasn't happy with that either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I agree that the pilot area does need some work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Well....I put this off for too long. I've been popping the protocouplers trying to pull larger trains and having mishaps. So it's time to go to body mounted KDs on the engines too. With a dozen Dash 8s to do and more, I thought I'd make castings to make the job easier and better. I figure I should upgrade the pilots while I'm at it. I still need to add some detail work before casting. I will make the oblong holes at the top corners first, and add the wedge shaped blocks on top of the coupler box. I was reluctant to cut the trucks for all this time. "You gotta do what you gotta do!!!" I need to figure out how to cast these! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi Joe,Looks good, I have done similar.Not all, but some are done.I have some pictures ..... Kadee 1920, Mu Ozark Pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Wow! they do look good like that. I searched and searched for your pics of the engines and couldn't find them anymore? I thought I would redo the plow too. It does look better mounted to the solid pilot, as is. The MU cable makes the shot complete for me. The spare knuckles are over the top! I went with the larger coupler because I didn't want anymore issues outside on my hills. I had a few drop outs and decided I'd stick with the G scale ones. I do like the looks of the smaller coupler better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 I got a little farther on these. I'm playing with the hoses when I remembered I bought those same accessories for my SD70ACe that I never finished. I mixed the hoses and ends up with the O scale ones I ordered. I forgot I got G scale ones too. I have a choice of four different plows. The Aristo Dash 9's is too wide. My homemade brass isn't finished. The Ozark one could work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi Joe, The MTH snowplow I have increased with a filler.As picture 5The snowplow of Ozark is better for the Santa Fe Dash.Very heavy and too wide, a lot of work for the file.A beautiful image of a brass plow Samhongsa SD45. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 The Ozark plow's casting is a little rough. It's also pretty thick. I might re-cast from it in plastic. Might be easier to file in plastic? I have several SFe Dash 8 versions that need it. I wish the cab roof was correct on them. That Samhongsa plow is beautiful! I tried to make my own and never finished it. I should make some grabs and fill in the box around the coupler. Maybe even re-cast it then in plastic? I should have noticed you re-worked the MTH plow as it looked so good! Thank you again for sharing your work. It helps me see where to go from here. I still need the spare knuckle boxes on the back. I need to get round plastic rod to fill in the holes so I can drill new ones. The inner most hoses should be heavier than the outside ones. Once I learn something it's hard to ignore it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Hi Joe, For the rear pilot you can make a sandwich and then drill the holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 I'm not sure what my rush was but I just poured the second halfs of my pilot molds. I stopped the other day to watch the grandkids and some more of my trains acted up and one broke. I was so aggrevated I told them that "all the trains were going in the garbage!" So 2 days later, now I'm back at it? I just poured the pilot's molds as is. Seems like I spend my whole life just trying to make a few laps with the trains. Urrrggg! For some reason against all logic, I tried my own mold release of liquid Teflon? It was laying here for years. I was waiting for a reply from the supply store and lost all patience. Sometimes, I just make things worse. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Hi, Joe, I do not quite understand what you're doing.But it looks interesting.You want to pour the Pilots in silicone?I do not know anyone who has done that.For the next winter I need a few of them .... My Harley Dash need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Yes, that's what I'm doing. The glue joints around the pilot opening already failed on me. They're just temporary for the mold anyways. I think I need about 24 of these. I'd rather pour the molds and then cast from resin, than make 24 of them. Once they're cast, they are stronger than when glued together. Of course, that's if the molds come out OK. I have had molds ruined by air bubbles and other things. The same applies to the castings as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 BTW, I previously had to cast my own in O scale as there wasn't any available for my three rail to two rail conversions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 I abandoned this project for some time now. The molds I poured did not work out. Not enough hardner was used and they stuck to their own material halves. I either need to try again, or more likely I'll build each one as I go. I was going to add coupler cut levers and even the spare knuckle pockets. It's been so long I just slapped the KDs on and I'm going to run her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 I went through a lot of work and money to upgrade all my fleet to electric MTH Proto-couplers. I am very disappointed that they fail under heavier loads. I will convert all my fleet now, to KDs. I hope I can get the KD electric couplers to work with the MTH PS boards someday. I like the ability to drop off cars anywhere on the layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I run only KDs myself. Tell us how they work out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 OK! One engine done and it works great! Many more to go.... https://youtu.be/xDSxiwa6lOc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 I just got a dash 8, with no plow or MU cables, guess I'll get some from Ozark, thanks for your postings, good info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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