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I just traced around the window, cut some thin plastic and used the pattern and cut it close. Then put the plastic in the hole and traced on the plastic, took awhile, but sanded it down to fit. I did not attempt any rubber seal look at all.
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You are sure good with figuring out electrical stuff. I stumble around and some times succeed! Did get the Zephyer going.
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Nice work Bob. Glad those parts helped out some. Sure like that, looks nice.
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Glad it worked out, be fun to see. You sure do big parts/molds!
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Saw someone did something like this on another forum awhile back. I had a molded portal by Precision Products that I used. Sprayed the inside of the portal on a piece of board and cut a piece of vinyl for the other end. Used some chicken grit for the gravel road. Left the edges, was not sure what to do there. Might cut a car model in half as if it is entering it. Just for grins.
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I sent some to you Bob, hope you can use them.
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I built a carrier for the engine.
Just 1/4" ply with some strips the right size to raise it off the rails. I changed it to velcro strips. Push it about halfway on the track, then lift the cab and remove the carrier. I did one for my Challenger also.
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Nice work. Does your workbench really look that neat, or do you just arrange it to make us slobs feel bad?
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Video here for everyone.
https://youtu.be/-PoFm1vCVRY
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First run of my McKeen car. Still need decals from Stan.
https://youtu.be/-PoFm1vCVRY
Basing it somewhat on thhis one that ran in Kansas.
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Pretty ambitious project, but looking well thought out.
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Gee, I have 3 or 4 of them.
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Making rapid progress here-NOT. But have been getting some done. I know I"m doing lots of non-prototypical stuff to my McKeen car, but I liked the brass rings and then Nick suggested outlining the square windows with brass also, which I was thinking about. Used clear plastic for the doors, then put on foil I had textured with rivet patterns and outline of the windows. Used watch crystals in the round windows. Brass rings had some tabs, used some to hold them on the body and some to hold in the glass. Should have sanded the vents more, thought they were okay, but the fit showed up worse when I painted it. Runs fine on battery power, just an on/off switch like a few other things I have made.
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Arlon. Triple R services with Ryan Bednarik could help you out. Ads on some of the forums. He and his dad are steam experts. They did the warming tank for my Mike.
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Should be able to find a steam guy there in Vegas. YYou read all the posts in the old Aristo steam forum? Some good info there. Might loosen the safety valve some to get higher pressure. It's under the front dome.
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New to me. Mine has never done that. If you put a blow down valve on it, you could let off the steam some. Maybe some type of vapor block? If it still runs fine, just chalk it up to steam gods and have fun. Were you able to push it any? Might check to make sure you are still quartered correctly. Look for loose nuts. No, not me!
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Friend of mine made some nice 1/32 wheels for me with ball bearings.
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I saw a guy online that was doing a DD40X, for the drive he had take two USA two axle blocks and spliced them together, worked pretty good. Not sure there are any blocks that would do you any good or not. NWSL? Hartland had some small blocks.
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Some guys sell their 3-D prints of engines/cars. You can get kits from the UK, but they are of their cars/engines and pricey. Bachman still sells some stuff, they put out some of the old Aristo parts and the Eggliner. USA trains is still going , as is MTH. Best to pre-order them, since they usually sell out. MTH is 1/32, but comes with sound/great smoke. Lots of used stuff for sale on the Facebook G scale swap/sell page, and of course, ebay. Haunt the LSC and MLS forums online and after awhile you will pick up some good info, well usually!
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