Screwy Nick Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 Bob, I have no idea, does it make a difference? and can it it be viewed by all?? EDIT: did some research, learned a few things, I got it right this time, thank you for bringing it to my attention. Thought if I could view it all could. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 Bob, I think I found what I did wrong first time. This time I saw PRIVATE, clicked on that it changed to PUBLIC and now the start of the video shows. Thank you again. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Cool..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 It works fine now and your motorcar looks fantastic. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choochoowilly Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 19 hours ago, Screwy Nick said: Temporarly attached trucks and made a test run. https://youtu.be/zM_DMpDII_k I hope this works, haven't made a UTube in many years. LiG At first I thought that the body was too high on the trucks but after studying the still color picture I see the front and rear trucks are different, the rear truck has a much thinner frame exposing the tops of the wheels more, car looks great going down the track, congratulations on a great rendering, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 Bill thank you, And the rear is as the wheels are smaller. On the 1:1 McKeen the rear truck was smaller as the front was the driving truck with the engine mounted above it. Had to size the trucks so the pilot doesn't short the track. The USAT trucks are smaller than the Aristo, yet the Aristo hold the car higher off the rail. Since the Aristo are bulkier (pic) they fill more space under the car. Still a work in progress as in my past train projects I've been known to totally change direction in the middle. Also I strayed from the original design as my rear truck is the actual driving truck. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Great build.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 Sean, thank you. McKeen Combine: Power truck alone ran very smoothly. With the added weight of the car, 4lb 3oz, the second trip through a turnout in reverse the axle slipped out of the side frame. Since I mated the USAT power brick and support bracket with Aristo Heavyweight side frames the frames were further from the brick than the USAT and the axles weren't as deep as if it had the original sides. I narrowed the support bracket 1.5mm on each side, can barely see the difference between the left, stock, and right, modified sides. Not trusting adhesive I used 0-80 screws to hold it together. I also added thrust bearings (McMaster Carr) between the trucks and car bottoms. The support bracket on the rear truck was brought to my attention, so all supports are now painted black. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Good work Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 29, 2019 Author Share Posted August 29, 2019 Jerry, thank you. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 Drilled the floor and added jumpers to the trucks so power can also be picked up in the front. May possibly remove the sliders in the future. Coated wire openings with liquid tape to protect wires from abrasion on the metal floor. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 Passenger car: I am using Aristocraft powered trucks on this one, fore and aft. Since they have a rounded riding surface on them I'm not using thrust bearings. adhered a piece of plastic to the bottom for them to ride on. As you can see I already drilled for the wires passing through and insulated with liquid tape, this time I also added shrink wrap to the wires. After I took the pics I painted the bottom leaving a circle unpainted where the trucks will ride. Combine car: I added rain diverters to the roof. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 6, 2019 Author Share Posted September 6, 2019 While looking at the cars I am building, something seemed to be missing?? The area under the car where the center doors and steps are. Copying the Aristocraft design I assembled a couple of boxes from left over plastic that will be screwed to the bottom of the cars. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choochoowilly Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 5 hours ago, Screwy Nick said: While looking at the cars I am building, something seemed to be missing?? The area under the car where the center doors and steps are. Copying the Aristocraft design I assembled a couple of boxes from left over plastic that will be screwed to the bottom of the cars. LiG Nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Bill, thank you. Paint really made them, just scraps of plastic glued together. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Made changes: found a nice rendition of a McKeen used on the Erie RR, one I wanted to model. Removed the rear Aristo power truck. Modified a USAT power truck mounting bracket to fit onto a standard freight truck with power pic ups. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choochoowilly Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Nick, I can see from the underside 3 dimples each set on one side and one on the other, seem to correspond to the seating inside, so are these spot welds and if so how where the accomplished? 13 hours ago, Screwy Nick said: Bill, thank you. Paint really made them, just scraps of plastic glued together. LiG Clear plastic, very unusual, looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Bill, yes they are the rear seats, and they are spot welded by the maker of the shell Bob Thon of Roberts Lines. If interested can PM you his Email. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choochoowilly Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 No just curious, like it with the 2 different bogies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 I appreciate all comments, that is how I strive to make a better model. I decided to see if I could lower the body on the combine to more hide the bolsters. I was able to take the car down 2.5mm, which still gave the pilot just under 2mm of clearance. Also took out some of the side to side rocking to further keep the pilot off the rails. Attempting to compare pic's at the same angle. I more like the look. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Nick you are you planning on running track power ..if so I would try to put some type (plastic ) insulator on the underside of that cow catcher .. It looks to be made out of metal ..we do not want to change your name to sparky.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Sean, yes it is cast brass. Good idea, going to grind about .5mm off the bottom of the pilot and will then add a strip of styrene. Thank You. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 Here it is, ground off .040 and used epoxy to stick .015 styrene to the bottom. After it cures I will sand it to the profile. I will no longer worry about the pilot shorting the rails. Thank You Again Sean. BTW, it isn't brass. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 Bronze ? Glad to help ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 It is a ferrous compound of some kind as it will stick to a magnet. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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