Rayman4449

You will be getting an email from me shortly on the engine Jerry

Bob, see this link see if this helps any: http://www.rayman4449.com/Rail_Connections.htm

Moved this discussion to a separate thread.

For expansion, if using the direct to rail clamps the rail joints will stay fixed if they are tightened down fully. In my case my curves are free floating so they can push out or pull in as needed but at least on my layout so I haven't had issues with it. (My straights are screwed down to boards (although they are more free floating in more places as time has gone on). I will note that I'm using Stainless steel which may have a lower expansion factor than brass or other metals. If someone needed expansion points in a straight, Split-Jaw does make a double long clamp that is made to allow for expansion. Having seen both types, for me personally I would only ever use the direct to rail type. For those using over-slider joiner clamps with slider joiners and they seem to be fine that is great, but reliable track power outdoors is one of the more challenging issues people deal with in the hobby and what drives a good number to just go battery power. Aside from brass oxidation on the rail, unreliable/oxidized joints that use slider joiners are the other main source of problems and from my experience, direct to rail clamps completely eliminates any question on rail joint connection reliability. My layout outside has been deployed for 10+ years it is still 100% reliable with no track power issues. Again that is partly because of Stainless rail but without the clamps I would have issues. I started out with rail joiners on my first small 120ft oval (SS track and SS slider joiners) and within a year or two I was having connection issues. With the way those slider joiners were designed it would have been lucky if an over the rail clamp would have made any material difference given how thick/hard the slider metal was (resisted bending). I can just say, if someone wants a truly reliable track powered G scale layout, removing all slider joiners and going with direct to rail clamps (of the same metal type) is a must. (It is good to use clamps of the same metal type ie brass clamps on brass rail or Stainless clamps on stainless rail because of Galvanic corrosion (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion)). I dont know that dissimilar metal corrosion would be a material factor for what we are doing, but the bottom line is if you are going to go through the expense and buy clamps, it is best to do it right and avoid any chance of issues.

A direct to rail clamp will be able to use 100% of its clamping force for the clamp itself to actually more bite into the rail on a smaller surface area. A direct to rail clamp will be making solid direct contact with the bottom and bottom sides of the rail profile. With a slider in place, an over the rail the clamp can at best exert some force only on the side of the rail profile. The amount of clamping force on these clamps is limited, they aren't like bench vices we us in our garages. They can exert only a certain amount of force before the screw bends.

Looking good guys and Jerry looks like you've made good progress on the new layout Jerry, looking at the photos had one question. Do you have slider joiners and then have split-jaw clamps over the outside of it? (In Red) I mean this as if you want to have the real benefit of rail-clamps (rock solid connections) it is best to eliminate all the slider joiners completely and just use direct to rail clamps. The clamp over slider joiner versions are still going to end up with less than ideal track connections.

Larry, I updated my prior replies regarding the USA Trains Trainpower 10 power supply. Based on new information and possible issue with another user I would avoid using it with your MTH Trains and control system

The power supply you use with your MTH Protosound 2/ 3 equipped trains (and with your DCS Control equipment like the TIU) is important for two reasons: 1) Possible control issues/malfunctions with the engines and 2) Possible actual damage to the electronics. (Note: You can damage your train electronics with too high a voltage or with PWM(Pulse Width Modulated) voltages of a high enough voltage spike frequency that can damage electronics components in your engines or control system.) What you want to control your MTH PS2/PS3 trains (and power your TIU) is a power supply that provides clean DC (or AC) power with an unaltered waveform. The problem is it isn't always clear what you are getting with the power supply you purchase. PWM power supplies for instance (which can be damaging if used) don't always state they are PWM power. It is best to stick with only those power supplies that are recommended. See this write-up on power supplies: http://www.rayman4449.com/DCS_Tips.htm#Type_of_Power_Supply Recommended DC power supplies: (From Rayman4449.com DCS Tips page) Best: - Bridgewerks (Throttle type power supply) *Use 'To Track' output terminals for best results* - http://www.bridgewerks.com/Pages/MagnumSRSeries.html (5, 10, 15 amp) - http://www.bridgewerks.com/Pages/Mag20SRM.html (20 amp) - http://www.bridgewerks.com/Pages/Magnum25TDR.html (25 amp) - Bridgewerks (Power Mag regulated power suply) - http://www.bridgewerks.com/Pages/PowerSupplies.html (25 amp @ 24volts) (see Power Mag) Good: - MRC Power 'G': http://www.modelrec.com/ - Bridgewerks Mag 15 (new model regulated at 24v output) (This may not provide the same track signal levels as their throttle type supplies) Believe safe to use: - Aristocraft 5460 (10amp) - (Looks like Automotive Battery Charger) Not Recommended: - Switching mode power supplies: (These can be used but I would avoid them) - AC Outputs on Bridgewerks power supplies: (Will get lower track signal levels) - Bridgewerks fixed output terminals on Throttle type power supplies. *Use 'To Track' output terminals for best results* Avoid/Do not use: - Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) - Aristocraft Revolution Base Station (added between your power supply and TIU/layout that allows control of voltage): - Model #57005S / 57004S is PWM/PWC output (Do not use this base station, it WILL DAMAGE your MTH TIU and possibly PS2/PS3 engine electronics. Will also cause control/operational issues because of the PWM/PWC power. - Model #57007S / 57006S indicates it is Linear (not PWM) and may be safe to use - MRC Throttle Pack 9950 or 9900 (These are PWM power supplies, Do Not Use!) - Bridgewerks Mag 15 (old version with unregulated output of 35+ volts) - Caution: - Aristocraft Train Engineer (At least some were PWM/PWC) (if it has a Linear/PWC switch, do not use on PWC setting. Linear should be ok) If you aren't sure if your Train Engineer is PWM/PWC or Linear, then I would assume it is PWM and not use it until you confirm for sure. Caution/Notes: - USA Trains Power 10: - Testing shows this power supply has excellent track signal results and is one I normally recommend under the Good to Use list. However as of 3/27/19, I have encountered 3 separate customers within a few week period where engines stop running with their lights flashing/pulsing (PS2 or PS3-One gauge steam) . Engine won't move with speed dialed in and engine makes noises when on the track. It appears USA has a bad batch of power supplies where they have an intermittent problem where they pulse track voltage on/off to the track rapidly. If you see this STOP USING THE POWER SUPPLY IMMEDIATELY! (Note that if you have PS3 engine with LED lights then lights wont flicker/pulse but will malfunction/not move.) Voltages: - O gauge/One Gauge: 0-24v recommended voltage (under DCS Command Control with TIU and remote use 18-24v) - HO Scale: 0-24v recommended voltage (under DCS Command Control with TIU and remote use 18-24v Maximum)

Update 12/18/18: The problem ended up being that Tom was using an Aristocraft Revo Base Station CRE-57005S between his power supply(s) and the TIU. That model of Revo Base Station converts the input DC power to PWM/PWC power, which is what was damaging the TIUs and causing all the control problems. ************* Original post from 9/14/18: Wanted to share an update on Tom's issue. Issues so far: Tom's first TIU failed and had to be returned to MTH Tom's second TIU has now failed (due to damaged/exploded capacitor) and has to be returned to MTH again. Tom's friend was at his house trying to run (supposedly with Bridgewerks power supply) and his capacitor exploded on his TIU. I believe that we will find that this TIU wasn't just used with the friends Bridgewerks powersupply but also at some point prior run on Tom's power supplies Power supplies: Tom's: From prior conversations I thought he indicated he was using a Bridgewerks throttle power supply on his layout. From conversation today Tom isn't using Bridgewerks but rather a 'Computer' type power supply and/or USA Trains Trainpower 10. (Update 12/18/18: Ray has confirmed the USA Trains Trainpower 10 is NOT PWM and is safe to use) Conclusion: I researched the one other time I saw this problem and it was when the customer was using a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) power supply and once he switched to Bridgewerks never had another problem. Also spoke with MTH and their head of service agrees this is most likely the result of damage due to PWM power. So I believe the issue here is power supply related, causing not only the damage to the TIUs but also operational malfunctions. The power supply is hitting the TIU with PWM frequencies high enough to blow the capacitor in question and certainly causing control and remote malfunctions. To have three TIUs all fail in the same manner all happening to a single customer is unprecedented and can only be due to the power supply being used. My recommendation is to get a Bridgewerks throttle type power supply (Magnum SR-15 is a good one to get) as per my original recommendation on 6/11/17 via email. Raymond

UP Steam Update: 08/29/18: Looks like they have made brand new steps on the front pilot and completely 100% sandblasting clean the cylinder castings. This thing is going to look incredible when it's done. https://www.up.com/aboutup/community/inside_track/steam-update-08-29-2018.htm

I would check this: http://www.rayman4449.com/Aristocraft_Dash-9_E-8_SD45_Mods.htm#Aristocraft_Dash-9_Gear-box_noise Overall it depends, the motorblocks may never be as quiet or smooth as some others that are out there.

That is something I do include with my upgrades on non-MTH Diesel engines to PS3.

Also if you end up coming down, if possible would like you to bring your TIU, Remote, WIU and table/phone you are using to control the engine.

If you can please describe in detail exactly what was going on and also clarify what quit means. From prior discussions, loss of control but still running = quit. Quit to me means the engine just shuts downs, stops moving with no lights or anything. It is important to clearly understand exactly everything that was going on in order to get a true idea of what is going on. "cant find which version of TIU I have because the unit will not find the engine and we have absolutely no control of the engine." The ability to retrieve the TIU firmware version loaded to the TIU has nothing to do with any engine on the track. If you are trying to use the MTH DCS Remote and cant retrieve the TIU version you have a fundamental problem that sounds like it may be TIU related. This point you mentioned should also be something key to any other MTH tech you are talking to as well. Checking TIU firmware version is about turning on track power (With power to Fixed 1 port) then using remote to check firmware version. In the explanation here I have no indication of what you are seeing and makes me wonder if there is confusion on how TIU version is even checked. Based on prior conversations, the issue was that the engine keeps going unresponsive to controls from the remote. (it would keep running but just stop responding) In this same note here you are describing fundamental problems of the Remote and TIU even functioning right which has nothing to do with the engine and again based on what has been told so far would seem to be something key to look at. Another question, when operating the engine, have you been trying to use both the WIU(Wifi) and the MTH DCS remote at the same time (going back and forth between the two) or have you just been using one? What phone/tablet are you using with the WIU(wifi)? If you end up bringing back the engine, please have the other MTH tech provide the small board components he removed from the engine so you can bring them back with. I understand his explanation for removing them but I want them back with the engine if it comes back. I have a very specific reason for requesting this. Regarding the capacitor blowing in the other TIU, have seen this before with one other person on the forums here. That isn't related to the engine and the TIU can be repaired. I recall you guys were using Bridgewerks power supply so power wouldn't have anything to do with it.

It looks great and is impressive for solid foam. Thats the first I've seen of something like that I believe.

From trip on 7/19/18: Follow UP Steam on Twitter: https://twitter.com/UP_Steam?ref_src=twsrc^tfw|twcamp^embeddedtimeline|twterm^449666478405476352&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.up.com%2Faboutup%2Fspecial_trains%2Fsteam%2Ftrace.cfm *Click photo for video*

Photos from May. Big Boy drivers with brand new tires and front pilot work.

Not sure if you saw this topic, but see this thread I posted that outlines differences between Piko and LGB in Radius and Diameter this might help: Also as reference, Diameter=Radius x 2 (So a curve that is listed as 5ft radius is the same as 10ft diameter)

This is as I suspected when we talked on the phone that the burned out motor didn't make sense and I didnt think that was the problem. The fact that you took it in and that something was done and still having problems shows the issue wasn't correctly isolated and repaired. I have never seen a burned out motor ever on either a Big Boy or Challenger. This is why I so strongly encouraged that the engine come back to me and no one else to let me isolate the problem and fix it correctly. If you decide to do that then feel free to reach out. Raymond

Really something else! Didn't realize they had the brick/blocks above as well. Adds yet another perspective on just how much labor was involved working on these things!

I can take pre-orders now. Anyone wanting one should get their pre-order in now to reserve one. The last production run sold out during the pre-order stage so dont wait! Raymond

https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/where-can-i-see-big-boy-steam-locomotive.amp

That came out excellent Nick. I know electric powered engines I have seen that were run on Live Steam run tracks were often completely soaked in live steam oil and in such a mess makes you wonder how to get it clean.... I'll give this a shot next time, thanks!

Those look beautiful. I just had a USA Trains F3 set arrive that are Chromed for for MTH PS3 install. Will share photos when I get them done.

Now THAT is a long flat car. How many tanks you figure will fit on one of those?