Chuck

Build/ Bash The Korber No. 568 2 Stall Engine House Kit

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Chuck   

You bet! At one time I was thinking about building a structure twice as wide so could have 4 tracks leading into it....Was also going to make it 16" longer...That structure would have measured like 32" wide x 64" long :D

 

Well I did manage to get the upper wall panels fitted, glued & painted. Also have all the extra lumber for reinforcement installed & hot glued. Finally starting to see the end of this project...Well not really as still have lights to hang & wire..and some kind of floor to make that'll be even with top of rails. Was thinking about lighted inspection pits but I have to move on to some other projects.

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Printing out upper windows.

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Ground view :)

 

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Chuck   

Gluing on the roofs...using 1-1/4" keystock for weights.

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The top roof I screwed up as was trying for a consistent rib pattern. I cut the lengths that were needed but when I fitted the panels together they didn't work out very well...The thickness of the castings vary greatly...oops! One panel would be 1/8" thicker than the other...I never would have guessed that. Since I only have 1 extra top roof piece had to make things work...live & learn ;)

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Glue I use...love this stuff as they have a rubberizer agent mixed in so joints won't become brittle with age.

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Every panel on this structure is wavy...must be from the materials they used 30 years ago?? I kinda like it as gives it some character.

I learned to NOT try and straighten any panels other than the red brick ones with a heatgun...the grey panels will bow and twist like you wouldn't believe! Heat the doors or upper walls with a heatgun and get them nice & straight...put 100 lbs. on them if you want then let them cool...when weight comes off they bow and twist!

 

I also found out that the doors have a metal pin cast in them for hinge strength. The end wall panels have a steel strip embedded in them so the center column has strength. I wouldn't be surprised if every wall panel has steel embedded into them.  

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Walls did come out surprisingly straight :)

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Great work! You not only made it bigger, you made it way better than original in every way.

I briefly consider taking 2 piko double engine sheds to make a large one to fit my mallet and sd70, but after seeing the work you did to make this work I don't think I have it in me to accomplish. Again great work, turned out perfect.

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Chuck   

Thanks!

Piko does have a extender kit to make those sheds longer so maybe wouldn't be so bad to build??

Colorado Model Structures has components to make about any building but they're rather incomplete as no trusses for roof support...or roof for that matter!

http://coloradomodel.com/babmain11.htm

 

Okay as I'm finally done...for now! Still have interior & exterior lights to install but having difficulties ordering the Plastruct 95903 lamp shades as they want like $11 to ship $20 worth of plastic...something that can be shipped via USPS first class for like $3.50...and Walthers is a little bit better as they charge like $8 ;)

 

Also need to build a floor up to top of rail height...probably use 2 layers of birch plywood.

 

Finished the roof with extra reinforcement wood "beams", hot glued then stained the wood with a mixture of back India ink & alcohol..to tone down the wood look...gives it that aged grey look.

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Outside of roof...it's pretty stout :)

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Did the same with interior of structure...that is all wood was "stained" with India ink & alcohol...really more of a "wash".

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Building in position on layout. 

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USA Big Boy lights shining thru windows.

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Upper windows.

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Inside

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You could check out Sintra board for the floor. It's like plastic. It cuts easy. Glues easy too. I found some thicker black strips (1/4"x 3"?) at the plastic place. Wide range of thicknesses I believe.

I see guys use it to make girder bridge sides and buildings. I'm going to try it soon.

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When you go back and look at what the kit looked like at the beginning and then what it looks like now it's just incredible!  A lot of vision, thought and effort put into it to get to that point, excellent job!

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Chuck   

Okay as I weighed it and the building is a hefty 26 lbs. Breaks down as structure 16 lbs. and roof is 10 lbs. which makes for easy handling.

 

I've been messing around with interior lights and wasted a few days on a crazy idea to use clear mini Christmas lights...but they weren't bright enough even though had 27 of them installed.

 

So I ended up using same lights that I use for passenger cars...That is those Led strips in warm white.

Ended up with 3 strips for a total of 210 Led's :)

 

Upside down on workbench testing lights...

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I installed a step down DC Buck Converter that's set at 11V output. Wiring is simple as power comes in thru a full wave bridge rectifier into adjustable Buck converter which is like 95% efficient. Buck can use any power up to like 35V DC. With a full wave bridge rectifier on input I can power it many different ways as long as power is 35V or under. Can power via ac or dc...whatever is handy. I have a 16V ac power buss under layout feeding USA Trains switch machines so I'll just tap into that.

 

The lighting strips themselves are made for a 12V dc power input but they can be fed down to something like 10V.

 

Here's the Buck Converter...cheap ol' eBay buy for less that $1 :)

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I wanted interior bright enough so could see inside with train room lights on during daytime and this does it! 

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Next is to start on a floor...hmm...

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Chuck   

Thanks!

 

Think I'm done for now as just put in a floor which consists of a layer of 1/2" plywood strips then a layer of 1/4" Birch then stained with ink & alcohol.

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A dog showed up so now have a shop dog :Wink_Emoji_large(24x24):

 

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I like the interior lighting so much that I went ahead and lit up the tower and station :Slightly_Smiling_Face_Emoji(24x24):

 

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