Dash 8 Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 Sounds good, my impression is smooth, maybe it's the wheelsets that cause problems. It may be that these are a bit narrow, so less than 40 mm inner dimensions. You say back to back space. Aristo is a candidate for such deviations. I think you'll get a handle on this. Regards Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 Jan, thank you, I'll look into that. Have to convert 40mm to inches as my caliper is American Std. Don't know why US didn't go metric when it was presented. Only my generation (geezers) would have to figure the equivalent, the next it would be second nature. Just like using software gadgets, the young got it all over me. EDIT: 40mm = 1.5748in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 Jan, two things: My caliper has a bar that shows MM's, just not as accurate as AS. The spacing is tight, best as I can see is 38.5 and a little bit more. Looks like the wheels are held on with screws, would I be over simplifying by saying just add a shim to one side of the wheels? Same side on all of course. Chuck, you mentioned that to me also a few days ago??? YES, Memory is on a greased rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 If the wheels sit on a cone, this is not possible. I don't know the Mikado, but it is probably that the technology is the same as the engines of the diesel. The only thing that helps is the lathe. But then the coating is gone inside and it can rust. Regards Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 Going to have to pull one off. I was thinking more of a flat side on the axle so they would stay in quarter. Diesel it doesn't matter so the cone would be good. Going to find out, just not right now, need to work up to that as I will be afraid of breaking as I believe the spokes are plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 This is the electric version, this could be done identically, but I guess only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 Nice day for some steam .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 I have the same prints, looks like cones in the electric version, hoping the live steam version is different. Still working up the nerve to take a wheel off. If the axle is cone shaped the wheel will come off easily, if it is keyed in any way will take a lot of care to work it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 Welllllll, attempted the last driver since it was the most accessible. Started with the nut holding the rod in place. Applied as much torque as I dared, nothing. Next tried the screw holding the wheel to the axle hoping to get a peek at the configuration, again applied as much twist as I dared. I think they used some kind of 'locktite' compound on them to discourage them from coming loose. If they had used an adhesive to hold the wheels on, I tend to agree with Jan, probably a cone shaped axle. Discouraged me for sure, will have to work up more nerve before trying that again. Not a big fan of applying heat to areas that are surrounded by plastic so will have to attack at a different angle. Suggestions appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Hi Nick , I browsed a bit in the MLS forum, Jerry B. has or had a Mikado, maybe he can say something about it. The problems with #6 are not unique. Greets Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Maybe try here With some luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 Jan, I know Jerry, he is looking to sell me his but it runs like crap and the last time he did run it, just stopped. He is also seeing my postings so if he wanted to offer something he would. Sean: that guy is a BLOW HARD and an AH. As soon as I saw the sight I got right off. Rather put a stick in my eye than give him the satisfaction that I looked something up on his site. If you have another tip, glad to hear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 You never know that's why no names were given .. However have you tried the Aristo forum ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 This is better, Mikado Greets Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Nick, I always set back spacing to 1.565" to 1.570" and everything seems to run good. Screws, Apply heat on screw head with tip of hot soldering iron for say 15 seconds and try...may have to heat longer but you'll get it. I've twisted those screws off before and no big deal to drill out as they're soft...but so is the axle. Yeah axles are tapered...another Aristo brainstorm. It does run nice and smooth though...not the typical haulin' ass like typically seen in videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 Sean, that guy uses his own name on the forums, I totally ignore him, and even told him what I think of him right on the forum. Jan, very informative, but again showing only the electric version, so I have to believe it is the same for the LS other wise I the difference would have been mentioned SOMEWHERE. I am still curious. Chuck, I will use the hot iron technique on the last wheel screw, it will haunt me if I don't, just need to work up the nerve to do so. And I'm no speed demon, just like to watch the motion no fun watching a blur. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 11, 2022 Author Share Posted November 11, 2022 UPdate: Chuck and I are working on a plan to narrow the wheels while still on the loco. Remove the main drive rod from both sides. Tire at the tip is .080, using an external source to spin the wheels while grinding off the inner tire about .040 on each opposing wheel should bring me close to spec. Vacuum tip near the action will remove dust and also bring air flow to keep the plastic parts cool. I know if I remove the wheels and rods it will NEVER run again. Any suggestions will certainly be appreciated, no matter how far out you may think, could spark another thought. Jan, your link to that article, very informative THANK YOU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Good idea, grinding is a good alternative. At that time I jacked up my Hudson and reduced the flanges with the engine running and a file. The chips fall away downwards. This saves a lot of work. Of course, you have to drive the axle from the outside, that will work. Regards Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 11, 2022 Author Share Posted November 11, 2022 That the USAT Hudson? One beautiful and well running locomotive. I chose the one without sound, but everything was already prepared for it, pretty much just dropped the Phoenix in. Earlier this year had to finally replace the battery. Running the Mike externally: My thought was to remove the center screw and connecting rod from the last driver. Threading a rod into where the screw came out and driving that with a drill, slowly. I am pretty sure that will cause me trouble I don't want. Chuck suggested running it on air. I am afraid to put that much wear on the cylinders and pistons not under steam, means without lubrication. But I can't come up with anything better. I just hope the tires are made of a relatively soft metal so it doesn't have to run long to do each one. On the other hand, don't want them made of very soft metal either. Caught between a rock and a hard place. Still open to suggestions. EDIT: thinking it may not fully rotate the wheels as it would have lost it's quartering if I did it my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 Try a rubber friction wheel. This drives the wheel you want to grind. That's what else comes to mind. A slow-running gear motor with a rubber disc as wide as the tread. From the inside then a Dremel with grinding wheel.... Would have to work without something defective. The Hudson is from MTH. i like Problems like this Regards Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 Jan, I LIKE. Just have to figure the logistics. Only have to disconnect the rod to the pistons, all else stays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Jan, That is a good idea! Maybe could buy a mini-stationary steam engine and run a belt off the flywheel to around a driver? Then be using a stationary steam engine to power another steam engine. They have them here pretty reasonable...but maybe use a steam engine out of one of your boat builds?? https://www.ministeam.com/category/Wilesco-Stationary-Steam-Engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dash 8 Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 A transmission belt could also work if it does not expire. Here is an example from the Carrera track, a small engine with friction wheel. Of course, you have to fix the locomotive and the tools. Otherwise you need three hands. Regards Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 This just keeps getting better and better. No stopping 3 thinking people. Chuck, your idea sounds like a lot of fun, and I'm sure will work. Jan, I have so many small electric motors, clamps, straps and other things should be able to make this work. For either scenario I have plenty of Dremel abrasive sleeves, used to grind a past companion's nails with them, and yet there's another device. Will be very busy today, but anxious to get started, and you can bet I will video the whole process. Most dangerous part will be removing the large nuts holding the main drive rods to the wheels, this will take a long time as I want to heat it slowly to soften the adhesive, when I get past that I'll be whistling along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 We are on the way. The part that I dreaded most turned out to be very easy. The bolts holding the main rod did not have locktite so didn't have to heat them. This is just a test: The cradle for the loco needs to be more secure and what ever I use to drive the wheels would like to be slower than the Dremel. Tested the friction wheel on both the tire end and inside, liked the inside as it gave me more traction. Not sure if I am going to have the grinding wheel follow the rotation of the wheels or opposite, either way will add wrinkle to the procedure. So far so good, can't let my guard down, I know the Gremlins are just waiting to pounce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.png.a4fb2273837361b3bbaa7a1d8a4c8996.png){kind=logo}
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.