Jump to content

Aristo LS Mike


Screwy Nick
 Share

Recommended Posts

Last week I went to the dentist, the same noise, only the drill was slightly smaller than yours... I think the drive should run constantly slowly, the grinder fast. It looks as expected...

I like it:Slightly_Smiling_Face_Emoji(24x24):

 

Regards

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So that there are no misunderstandings, my tooth could not be saved, but I am full of confidence for the Mikado. My view of the problem is only theoretical, I am always happy when it works.

Greets

Jan
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Jan, EVERYTHING starts with a theory.  

 Merriam  Webster:   

theory: a belief, policy, or procedure proposed or followed as the basis of action.  
  Have a busy day planned, including pics, videos and Mikes.  LiG
EDIT: if I hold the abrasive wheel at the correct angle on the back of the tire, can not only grind but also provide the drive to spin the wheels. Can adjust the amount of grind and the speed by changing the angle,?? I just may have enough hands to pull it off. 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Ok, the third hand is not needed, which also saves a sticking plaster for the fingers. :Sunglasses_Emoji(24x24): Please do not forget the constant measuring, gone is gone... or as they say here, cut twice and still too short....

Regards

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

1303619461_asxjycUnTyuPHkYi62omg.thumb.jpg.fe7dd771cf23b9c5c951526b19b01c32.jpgJan, yes have my calipers at the ready, and took more measurements of things just this morning. 

Chuck, agree .050 and a lot to take off, but take .025 off the opposite inside of each of an .080 thick tire should be doable.

ALSO, did some more playing, stalling to start the grinder as long as possible.  

     First thing I noticed is without the main drive rods,  just put it on the track it will roll towards the lowest level.  

     Drivers #1 and #3 have no side to side play at all, and when they both are in position of the guard rails that is when most of the binding occurs.   Looking at my AML K4, the center driver is blind, as is all of my Bachmann 6 drive wheeled locos.  Only my LGB Mike as all drivers flanged BUT all have plenty of side to side play, and the drive rods are manufactured to allow that.

     Thinking of starting with #3 drivers and see what happens.   How's this for odd:  the drive wheels are 1.525 back to back, while the trucks are 1.582???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Hello Nick, I do not understand everything in detail what you write, I think the axes are without side play so that the machine does not lurch. Many manufacturers do this, but everyone does it differently.

Regards

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Jan, I know I sometimes don't make clear what I mean, that's why I EDIT so much.  Side to Side play is important if you intend in going more than in a straight line.  Having drivers locked, combined with the narrow back to back spacing causes severe drag on curves that have guide rails, like a turnout.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Here we go, and only needed two hands.  Not shown is my using 400 grit to smooth the tire end.  Much, Much better going through the #6 divergent.  And yes Chuck, I am going after that last .015.  Would also like to take some off the front drivers, but not as much as I don't want it to pick points, there's no coming back from that.  Now need to tighten up the truck wheels.  

F7IcXIUsSlKwo1VGoxHjXg.thumb.jpg.bccd4e5f4b055de896ea5c030c1c8348.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Yes looking good! Oh yes agree that the .025 per side is fine....just how did Aristo get it that far off...like I need to ask :Slightly_Smiling_Face_Emoji(24x24):

 

Oh and I agree about doing it like you are is probably best. Quartering a 4 axle coupled drive by hand starts getting tough without fixtures. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Just waiting for the sun to come up so can see how it rolls through the turnouts.  Only difference this time was I set the Dremel for 15K instead of less than 10 as before.  Tried to keep the 'miles' to a minimum on the running gear.  If all goes as I hope, will reinstall the drive rods and today's weather is supposed to great for plumes.  

Found a tiny spring on the bench, just hoping it's from something else.  Thought I kept a watchful eye for :Smiling_Devil_Emoji_large(24x24): as these guys are always lurking.  fullsizeoutput_a87.thumb.jpeg.ad08ed394974958c6758bc1b3eadda2d.jpegfullsizeoutput_a89.thumb.jpeg.9ca6a7294347ff47878fa46277064cdc.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Sean, I had fun doing it.  Pushed it through the turnouts and it was smooth. Reinstalled the main rods, and tested on air.   Yes :Smiling_Devil_Emoji_large(24x24): struck. The little spring is from the cut off relay on the throttle, closed position.  Can't find the contact, but thinking the spring may also be the contact.   Found some micro switches on line, going to get enough to replace all of them as they don't strike me as well made. If I run must be careful that I don't let the motor that controls the throttle to over shoot.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hello Nick, there are always losses, the main thing is that the Mikado runs, the little thing you will certainly get repaired. In the picture, the wheel tires look like brass, or is that an optical illusion…

 

Regards

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Jan, must have been the lighting. It is a chrome like metal and pretty tough.  Went through 3 of the Dremel tubular emery things that go on the rubber arbor.  And they are not plated, same metal all the way through.  I found fully enclosed micro switches on line and ordered enough to replace them all when they finally break.  I am lucky with this one as it is on the throttle off position.  If I go past the off position, rotation of the arm will open the throttle again coming down the other side, so I really can't break anything as long as I keep my eye on it.  Hoping to get a run in tomorrow AM when it will be cooler and have nice plumes.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 

Here it goes, floating through the turnouts.  This mornings tests showed that the truck wheels are also out of gauge, in the opposite direction, 1.582, and the front kept demonstrating that at even at the most minor irregularity.  Hoping just a little squeeze in a vice fixes that. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hi Nick, Truck Wheels, you mean the tender and also the pilot axle in front...? Anyway, that can certainly be postponed. I attach a small letter , amazing how the measurements have changed over the years.
Hope it helps you 

 

Greets

Jan with Max and Moritz 

 

 

1802AA88-72FA-4983-859E-A565544CF395.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Jan, yes the pilot and trailing truck wheels. Thank you for the chart, the top part explaining what the letters are helped.

Chuck: I really don't know.  I haven't figured access to the smoke box.  It appears to be two pieces with the seam top center of the boiler. I think restricting the exhaust may cause problems.  This really spits water out on initial clearing of the cylinders, on one hand will keep the loco cleaner, but I also noticed it extinguished the flame once or twice.  Needs more investigation.

EDIT:  closer look, two small screws below the marker lights appear to hold the smoke box front. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Worked on re-gauging the pilot and trailing truck wheels. Front was easy, set a washer the thickness I wanted to bring in at the insulated wheel and squeezed in a vice.  The tailing trucks was a another matter.  Pics will explain:  I did further align the wheels on the bottom pic.  

Jan, I owe you an apology: different light, sure does look like a brass compound.fullsizeoutput_a92.thumb.jpeg.fac9903b8531704ba6f768f5bb108bcf.jpeg

2122983205_wIkp7jY9QzOusvAUjla1w.thumb.jpg.ec59e7e4a2599badc41bb2ce7f1e966b.jpg702406618_PiRDZCTGKjUxrTn6Md1w.thumb.jpg.c95e5e6686ed14bfcb4bac25ff94b6b3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
  • Create New...