rbrown7713 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 I will try that, but one thing, I am not hooked up to my motors yet, so I can't go forward, so I guess I will have to wait until I install my motors, but this is information that I haven't heard before, so I greatly appreciate it. Can I get them to come on with out forward movement with the throttle? Thanks for this information. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Ditch light wires are separate. One wire of each bulb goes to it's function (wire #5 or 39). They only are active with the engine moving. The board may not know that there's no motor(s) connected for load. But it does look at the tach for speed. So that's over my head on how that would work! I have seen boards shut down or act up, when they put out power to the motors and don't get an expected result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 According to the schematic, there are two separate grounds. I am glad you told me about the timing on the motor, I was about to hook up a motor to test the ditch lights. Maybe it is time to set up the timing circuit on the truck. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 SUCCESS! Hooked up a motor with the timing wheel. Throttled forward and no ditch lights until I turned on the headlights and then flashing ditch lights. Now I can sleep. Thanks everyone for your input and certainly led to my success. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 You are welcome Joe, I couldn't have succeeded without your and Chucks, MTH trains, and Rays help, thanks again. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Great news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 Yes it is Chuck, boy I wish I knew all that there is to know about this DCS, but I have lots to learn, thanks again. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 The loco is looking great too!! Looking forward to seeing the video of it zipping around the layout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 Me too, it won't be long, almost there. Thanks. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 Here is the tach mounted in the NWSL housing. I have .080 clearance from pickup to wheel. The sensor can also be removed as I used the original O gauge clip for mounting. I am concerned about getting enough light for the sensor to register. How sensitive are these sensors? Will I have to provide an entrance for some light to enter? Any help would be appreciated. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Looks good! The darker the better as it generates its own light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 I didn't think. I should have known that because in the Army we used infra red goggles and was taught that they generate their own light. Oh well, that's what comes with old age. I did hook up the NWSL truck with it completely enclosed and it ran perfectly with .080 clearance. So now all that I have to do is mount the trucks and make some side rails, and a few other things. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 I am working on the trucks now, had to shorten about 1/2 inch. Here are some pics. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 Here is what it looks like on the truck. Now more molds. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Here it is set up for the height and spacing. I am going to have to trim the plow a bit. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 Here are some pictures of the first part of the mold. I filled the inside of the parts with clay because I don't need for them to be hollow, just preserved some of the screw holes. Used some F7 ladders, the LGB ones too big. I have poured the second part of the mold a few minutes ago, so I think I am finished with molds on this project. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 There was always something about the original that made it look wrong? It looked like it was too high? or had too much space under the shell? Sometimes there's concessions made to run on tight curves I think? Yours looks mean! (compliment) I'm building a new 3 rail loop of O scale in the basement or I'd be chopping something up! Again, very motivating, Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Here are some pictures of the first part of the mold. I filled the inside of the parts with clay because I don't need for them to be hollow, just preserved some of the screw holes. Used some F7 ladders, the LGB ones too big. I have poured the second part of the mold a few minutes ago, so I think I am finished with molds on this project. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Thanks Joe, I appreciate that. Guess what I am doing now. I am slicing up another one. These things run around in pairs and besides, I need it to house the TIU. This time I cut the 1/2 inch from the middle, saved two long cuts. Don't know which phase yet, but think maybe the wave. The mold for the side frames came out good, will be pouring some parts today. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 WOW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I found my PS3 upgrade lighting problem post. It finally straightened itself out after a couple of cycles of power. http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/ps3-install-lighting-problems?reply=55912195625073901#55912195625073901 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Joe, it sounds like you have worked things out. I am using the 5.0 loader download. I am using windows 7, 64 bit and the new procedure only likes the cable that is a 9 pin adapter to USB. I put everything on my desktop, easier for me to find it. You probably know this, but the zip files that hold the chain files, are not unzipped, you just click on the .zip file. The zip file with the sound file, you do unzip. I have found this out with everyone's help and trial and error. I am running into some problems cutting up the new Genesis, couldn't remember how I cut the cab up, but am working that out. I thought that I had the cab correctly cut and then compared to the 42 and was not a match, but I am correcting that. Thank God for plastic, can make any corrections. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I always liked working with wood because you can fix up most anything. Now it's plastic but still very similar. The good thing about sharing in these posts, is that they serve to remind me of what I've done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 At least you have remembered what you have done, I have forgotten most of what I have done. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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