rbrown7713 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 Jerry, I should have posted some pictures on my masking of the seals on the P42, but I forgot. I just masked the seals, first the vertical, and let it dry, then the next day, the horizontal masking. I just eyeballed the width of the seal with tape. I used gloss black and brushed them on. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Okay, thanks, should work fine! Good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 Well, I am almost there. Some more paint and stars and touch up. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Will U start on mine next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 Good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 OK guys, this is my last picture until I get it under power and finished, so here it is. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Ah man. Cutting it was enough. Now I have to figure out if/how I will flush the windows? Urrggg. Don't set the bar so high next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 You don't have to figure it out, I showed you how. You have to flush the windows. That's what makes it a flush and not a pair. Actually, it is the easiest way. First, after sizing the glass, you have to grind off a ridge the LGB put on the glass. Then, use epoxy, mixed with micro, to install the glass. Make sure the glass is as flush, in the beginning, as you can make them. Block sand with 800 grit to get flush. Use primer to fill voids, and block sand again with 800. Sand again with 2000, no block not needed. Then polish with your dremel, very slow rotation, and keep moving the polish pad, don't pause in one place as you can melt the plastic. Polish to a see through state. I used very liquid fine white auto polish. Then mask and paint. The same thing with the number board. "Easy". I discovered after making the glass number boards for the rear, that actually the numbers are painted on. No glass. I am keeping the glass and lighting them. I am still waiting on my NWSL trucks. I think he is working on them now. I asked him to put a flywheel on the motor shaft for the timing tape. I am going to start installing the lights while I am waiting on the trucks. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Here is a YouTube slide presentation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Lights installed, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Hmmm, the front looks perfect. The back? for some reason my mind saw a minion imbedded inside the back panel? I'm over tired I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 I didn't know what you meant until I looked, and you are right. Maybe I should put some glasses on him. Your minion looks so good, I think I want to build a model of him, and I am going to name it Joe. You sure keep me laughing Joe, keep it up, I enjoy it. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Finally got the Alps printer to work, it was me not the printer. Here are some pics. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 "you know what your problem is....." Wow, you really see a project thru don't you? I would have stalled a few times at least. Congrats on the job. Looks real nice from here! Of course I'm guessing that the doors got painted too? It would be great if the shops would sell these decals so more of us could do some custom work. It seems that every project that I have started, needs complete scratch building. In so many other scales, there are supplies to make the job easier. I really hadn't considered buying a lathe! I do know how to run one. Well, I know how to turn brake rotors, flywheels, etc. I've even decked some heads. I guess we need all the skill sets. And I still have all my fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I bought the laser printer because they said that the toner ink was water proof, that was true, but the decals, when printed were lousy. You could see through them and rendered them useless. The Alps printer is different. It uses a tape cartridge and has more of an opaque print, as you can see in the white decals. Don't know how the large veterans banner is going to come out, will tackle that tomorrow, will let you know. I think I mentioned it before that a real small lathe is all that you need and does come in handy. Probably 200 to 400 dollars would do it. I think that 1:32 is the best scale, but the corporations feel that making them larger sells better, but I don't think that the group sitting around the corporate decision making table are model train enthusiasts. Once they tool up to make 1:29 or 1:24 and spend millions for tooling, it's too late to turn back, so sad. Oh well, maybe MTH will do more, who knows. If I can't buy it, I will make it, that's the way I look at it, sort of spurs me on. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Hey Joe, here is a pic. with the door, I didn't forget, this time anyway. Here is the name of the font used for Amtrak, looks the closest anyway. "Yu Gothic UI Semibold" Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I printed the Veterans mural out on the Alps. I had to use white decal paper to get the colors out. Looks fair, I guess. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 I'm going to try the acrylic sealer as the clear paints I've used seem to craze or mess up my work. I have a car that never dried and show my finger prints in the clear from a week after painting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 On 10/27/2016 at 7:25 PM, rbrown7713 said: Nice work, the edges look better than what I was able to do. I,ll try harder. That is a beautiful looking model Tod. I want to do a Los Angeles Transit red car someday. Here is the stuff that I am to find for clear coat and decals: "Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine" UPC number 46500 00182 , SC Johnson product number 741321 Bob. Man, I have no memory. I knew I read this somewhere. So I went to Walmart and only found one product that was a floor finish. Most of them were cleaners. Anyways I get home and check, and it has the same UPC number. It doesn't have anything on the label saying Future Shine. It says Pledge Floor care and "Finish" being the key. It does state 2x more shine than water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 I used the O gauge speaker mount, had to mill it down to fit, but now the speaker fits as stock. Adds a little weight also. Here is a picture of the Future that I bought. From all of the information that I went through, this is the same as the original acrylic clear finish as the original. I think that the model airplane guys use it to seal and protect the paint on their models, but they use mainly acrylic paints, mine is enamel. I have used this on my clear glass, plastic, and it dries hard, seems to be tough. I too, am afraid of spraying the whole loco, might mess it up and have to paint it again and I don't relish that thought. I am going to do a test spray and see what happens. It will make the paint shinier. I am definitely going to use it on the decals to protect them. You have to watch, when you brush it on, might be too thick, but will dry, and you can see where it begins and ends. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 OK, now what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Joe, where can I find an electrical diagram for this SD70 Proto 3? I think they are messing with me. On the little light circuit board, the one that says cplr., obviously coupler, it has lights on the other end. Did they just put the plug in the wrong place? Mainly I need a diagram for the light circuit board. Even better, for the whole thing. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Sorry Sir. I was out riding a tourist train today! http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/train-excursion-on-the-bcandj-today Anyways, I used the wiring guide from the upgrade kit on the MTH site. Marty F also gave me a pin chart on the OGR forum. The trouble with both is that each year they make changes to production models and I don't get those changes. I believe some techs do get them. Anyways Here's a link to the instruction manual for a diesel PS3 kit install that is a rough guide for the wiring. Some sound sets use different pins for their lights I believe. I'll get you more info in a little while. http://www.protosound2.com/ http://mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/download/instruction/50as18328i.pdf PS3 wiring guide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 usually coupler have a black receptacle I think? headlight is usually blue. sometimes colors are all over. I saved just the pic of the wiring but I can't seem to post it? go to page 16 on that wiring guide link. I need to post Marty's to you also to compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 that is the same floor finish I bought. I will try it on my tank car decals and post results. I have nothing to loose as they tore up anyways. They were so thin it was like handling wet toilet paper! Let's see, the yellow is + and white is -. There are yellow and white on a 8 pin plug to the motors. There's another set in the big 40 wire set and those are for the speaker. Looks like you left most of the lights connected so you can see what they do once you connect the board enough for a test. Red and black are from the track power. You have most of the tough ones connected like the pots for volume and smoke. I would mount that metal platform with those on where you can get access like the top hatch or a door opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.png.a4fb2273837361b3bbaa7a1d8a4c8996.png){kind=logo}
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.