Jerry B44 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 My 1 Gauge dash 8 smokes like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 That's a shame that the rods were the wrong length. They look really good to me. With the roller bearing, that's over the top! Nice attempt anyways. I overlooked that you had bought an O scale engine. I thought it was G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 I cooked my own goose by installing bearings in the rods, as it made them very tight requiring the exact length of the rods as the distance between the axles. Most models use bushings and are very loose for that reason. I corrected the lengths now and the rods are finished and the correct length. My next venture, if I can is to replace the axle bronze bushings with bearings, but I don't know if that will be possible. That's nice to hear that the O gauge dash 8 smokes well Jerry. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 Finally an item that eased my installation. I have machined the driving wheel axles and now the driven wheel hubs had to fit the id of the bearing. I went to the local hobby shop and bought some 1/4" brass tubing and the id. was perfect, but took a little sanding on the OD of the tubing to fit it to the id. of the bearing, much easier than having to machine the entire bushing out of raw stock, works well. Here is a picture. The initial testing of the fit of the rod while rotating seems to be perfect without any binding, hope the other three rod setups work as well. I have located some flanged axle bearings that I will attempt to incorporate into the mix, hoping to eliminate having to worry about oiling the axles and also maybe a little less roll friction, we shall see. The bearing size is: 7mm x 11mm x 3mm, requiring to ream the axle hole to 11mm from 10mm. I think it will work. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Need help, does anyone know what thread size the rod to wheel machine screw size is for the one gauge Hudson. I got one 4-40 to go in with some oil, but I am having a hard time with the others. Is it a special thread?, it seems awful tight. Is it metric? If it is metric, it is very close to a 4-40, any help would be helpful, thanks, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Some of the screws on my O scale MTH engines are metric. I really don't know about these for sure? I would guess they are. Chuck or Ray might know? Can you match up with the originals? once you find out, you should probably chase them if you have a matching tap if they're buggered up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I think I have seen where the right side wheels are threaded different than the left (reverse threads) on an O scale model? I have no memory left! If you do get any binding feel while spinning the flywheels when you're done, make your tolerances slightly larger. I believe most have slop because the geometry isn't perfect. I'm trying to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 I am going to attempt to run a 4-40 tap through them and then in final assy. I will use lok tite, that's the only thing that I know to do so far. I know that there are different thread ratings as far as tolerance and tightness, and I am beginning to think that this is one of those cases. The original screw diameter is .109 and the new diameter is around .112, so that is part of my problem. Maybe the best thing and easiest is to run a die on the new screws that I have, I will see if that will work. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Well, I found a chart that compares metric screws to NC threads and they state that a 3mm .5 pitch screw is the same as a 4-40 screw, so what I am running into is the tolerances of the screw itself. The screw diam. out of the Hudson is actually 2.77 mm and the 4-40 screw is 2.86mm, so I will go down to Ace hardware and see what diam. their 3mm screws are, maybe I will get lucky. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Here is what I have been doing the last 3 hours. I traveled to 3 different Ace hardware stores and compared the size of 4-40 bolts and 3mm .5 metric bolts and here is what I have found. The 4-40 bolts varied from .109 inches to .113 inches. The metric bolts varied from .1125 inches to .116 inches, so sorting through these bolts, I think I have some bolts to work with. Even with the smallest of these sizes, the threads in the Hudson wheel to rod attachments are still tight, so I will be working on the bolts to bring them down even smaller in size so that they will go in easily. I screwed one in with too much pressure and the fitting in the wheel spun and I don't want that to happen again, that's not fun, so here I go. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 I solved the mystery of the tight threads, I think. Part of it was the loktite that they used at the factory and also tight threads. I used trans. fluid and tried to run a screw down and it loosened a bit and on some I had to take the wheel off and run a tap through some of them and that did the job, all have new screws. Here is where I am at with the model right now, waiting for some rod slides from MTH. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 These builds get to a stage where I get impatient. I always rush forward to get the thing running. Even now that this isn't even mine, I'm excited to see it run. Looks like she will be rewarding on the quality of the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Thanks Joe. I am trying to get the mechanical and the electronic stages in place so that when I make some of the major molds everything will fit better. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 You doing a wonderful job on this unit! It still looks like it's wearing a toupee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Yes. It needs some Bondo, which I will be applying shortly and also to my toupee, goes on easily, and it will stand a 170 mph. wind, but it is tough to remove. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 What I've ran into over the years is the Challenger plastic drivers are 4-40 and say like the Big Boy metal drivers are metric when it comes to the crankpin screws. So maybe since the Hudson uses plastic drivers as does the Challengers then maybe both are 4-40?? Don't know just wondering. Don't get on them to hard as the inserts will spin if tightened too hard or if permanent loctite is used. I use the blue threadlocker myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 I talked to Ray and you are confirming what he said minus naming a 4-40 screw and yes, some of the inserts did turn, well I ended up removing the two that had turned and used ATF fluid and first ran a screw through them and removed the loctite substance and that helped. On some of them, I had to use a 4-40 tap and now all is well. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I did a little work on the cylinders to make them look a little more prototypical. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 I cut the side panels and am fitting them. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 I, up until yesterday, was faced with a problem with a urethane mold for the boiler or body of the loco. The problem was that when using a urethane mold, what you pour is what you get. You can't come back later and add details, such as rivets or any other detail, but with an epoxy and glass mold, you can. I have never mixed mold mediums, I don't know why, so with this mold, the outside will be epoxy and glass cloth, allowing me to add details, and the inside of the mold will be urethane. That way, the details, such as attach points on the inside of the Hudsons will be maintained and solve my problem..On the inside, there are mounts for the electronics, screw anchors to attach the body to the frame, and they will be maintained. I just thought that I would share this thought and I don't know why I didn't think of this before. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 I finally received the rod slides and now I have to figure out a way to mount them. I am using Challenger rods and hardware. I am also working on the mold for the shell, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 More details to add and some shaping, but I am getting there. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Boy, at this rate, mine will take forever to get here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 You are right. This will be the last steam loco. that I will attempt. After this build I will have to go to loco anonymous. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Yeah, but you are having fun and keeping busy. Plus, you will have the only one, not counting the real pricey ones. Coming along good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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