Jump to content

preparing the roadbed


enginear joe
 Share

Recommended Posts

 I'm forging ahead with something I've never done, building an outdoor RR! I don't know the best way as whatever I read is not built for Western NY weather. We only get a few great months of weather here and the frost is tough. I decided that concrete would be my friend and we'll see if that works out. I also have areas where it will just be crushed rock. It may need rebuilding each year for awhile. How do you sell a house if it's been made for a RR? How will I ballast this stuff?

post-10-0-69554400-1400191759.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Joe- I live a few miles south of you in sunny, tropical Buffalo.  When I put my railroad in 4 years ago, I floated my track in ballast.  I used crusher run for ballast.  Crusher run has lots of stone dust in it which helps it bind together well.  It's a bit out of scale (okay, its way out of scale), but it holds up real well during our horrible winters. It still needs some reballasting each year, but nothing too bad.   I was going to top it off with some smaller scale "decorative" ballast, but never got around to it.  This year we are expanding the layout and I'm going to use the same method, again.  Maybe concrete is better, I dunno, but it sounds like more work and it might do some heaving in the winter ( i do some heaving in the winter, too, but it involves a shovel and a driveway full of snow!!!).  As for trying to sell your house with a railroad in the yard..... It would be easier to till the stone ballast into the ground than to remove a lot of concrete.  Just some thoughts.  Good luck.

 

 

-Kevin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 Thanks!

I do have some crusher run for driveways out back where it won't be seen as much and I'll top it off too. I have screened a bunch down to crusher fines myself. I am using this to see how it holds up as well. There are parts of my yard that are too wet most of the year and I'm using the concrete to solve a couple of issues. It has mesh inside and if it floats up and down with the seasons, I think it will be OK.

 I made a mistake of using round pebbles on my first RR loop and will fill the track bed with crusher to lock it up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

I looked at that too, along with chicken grit that some use in the south. I like Grant's RR look, that he posted a picture of. My local landscape supplies just have large crusher run that is a mix of large, small, and various stone dust. I was looking for something like 1/8 or smaller. I went to the quarry and they said it was called crusher fines here. They won't deliver and no one stocks it.

 So, I took some metal screen and sifted the crusher run to just get the small stuff. It would have been easier to buy or rent a trailer for the crushed granite or crusher fines!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 
  • 2 weeks later...

 I wanted to get going this year on the RR. I started laying down the mainline.

Apparently we have a new friend who wants to ride the RR!!

Hmmm, he looks friendly? maybe he just needs some food????

Deer, a fox, a turkey, some skunks, etc. now this guy. You would think I live in the country?

post-10-0-92672400-1401410423.jpg

post-10-0-72086700-1401410445.jpg

post-10-0-59492100-1401410494.jpg

post-10-0-05059800-1401410535.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I was struggling with getting the track level. I laid my torpedo level on a coal car and it helped me out. Much easier than sliding the level around anyways. I tried pushing the car with an engine, but it was harder to get it right. Seemed easier pushing the car back and forth to get the track level. I got tired of ballasting so after some time at it, I just ran the train!

Track's not straight, not level yet either. My back and neck said forget it for now!

Tried one TIU channel and a couple of drops with the loop split in one spot. Signal dropped out a few feet from each drop. So I split the 200' loop in two, and added a second TIU channel. All tens, all the way around for signal strength now. I got two of Ray's filters hooked up at each track connection. I have two bulbs hooked up at each TIU channel output. Don't know if I needed all that? It works great and I'm not playing with it anymore today.

 I will try my newer TIU rev L when I get the time. Probably could have stayed with one channel but why bother? Got to go play now!

post-10-0-57753700-1401478288_thumb.jpg

post-10-0-83872000-1401478351.jpg

post-10-0-45939200-1401478374_thumb.jpg

post-10-0-05478400-1401478618_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

 Man, am I getting old! It took me all day to do about ten feet of track! ( Well I did it and then quit.) We hit 81 degrees and I wasn't used to it.

I'm learning to apply the crushed stone dry and then hose it in.

post-10-0-54519000-1401664198_thumb.jpg

post-10-0-14459700-1401664250_thumb.jpg

post-10-0-24705900-1401664269.jpg

post-10-0-77428800-1401664289.jpg

post-10-0-13146300-1401664308.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Joe,

 

  Love the LONG straight-away!  You could get a bullet train going on that....  I was curious...  I need a LONG bridge for my layout.....  Perhaps two of them.   The one you have in the last picture looks perfect...  Did you build that or if not, where did you find it?

 

Charles 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I hope this doesn't sound like I'm bragging....

Trains auctions had three different ones (all 5' double track!) with a starting bid of $100 each  or less if I remember right? No one bid on them. So I grabbed them for the starting bid. I figured they were worth way more than that in time and materials. They are built very sturdy.

 I have a small hobby welder. I just ordered some steel and will make my next one at 7' long.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Joe,

 

  Sounds like a great deal to me! 

 

 About 1/2 of my layout will be elevated with double tracks, so extended bridges would be ideal.  Do you have a link to the auction site you mentioned? 

 

Thanks

 

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 
 

 I threw down the outer loop just to run some trains. I should have marked out clearly where each track would go. I don't have a track plan written out, just in my mind a general plan. I figured anything would need adjusting anyways in the real world. So I ended up having to re-ballast most of the outer loop after moving it. I could do this faster than the years I spent pre-planning to move outside anyways. Mother nature has to pack down the rock more than I could.

post-10-0-98039500-1402413257.jpg

post-10-0-26678900-1402413275.jpg

post-10-0-00363400-1402413290.jpg

post-10-0-79245400-1402413329.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 1 month later...
 
 
 

 I do have steamers too. I'm saving them until I'm sure the trackwork is good. I wouldn't want the Challengers to hit the dirt!!

 thanks though! Tell my girl that one! She actually told me today that I should have got the inside rails laid by now so the train would go across the front of the rock garden and across the water the way it did last year. She screamed at me for buying more track? Urrggg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Joe,

its looking really good! :)

I think you are building your railroad the "best" was for our climate..

im also in Western NY, in the suburbs of Rochester..I have been a member of various large scale on-line forums for fourteen years now!

and I am only now getting around to building my own garden railroad..(I helped my Dad build his from 2000 to 2009)

 

Spending all that time on-line, and seeing how other garden railroads have been built around here, (I have been a member of the Rochester G-scale clube since 2000)

https://sites.google.com/site/1991gggrs/

I have learned a lot about how to deal with our biggest issue..frost heave. There are really only two ways to build:

 

If building on the ground..the tried and true "trench method" is the only thing that will be reliable and low-maintenance in our climate..

Dig a trench, line it with weed cloth if you like, fill it with gravel/ballast, and "float" the track in it..

 

If doing a "raised" railroad, you have to rest your supports ON the ground, not IN the ground..

the supports have to be on blocks that sit right on the surface, like this:

 

chuck23.jpg

 

then the blocks rise and fall with frost heave in the early spring, but they settle back to their original position.

If you you put posts IN the ground, even only 6" to 12", they will heave right out of the ground in the spring..

or rise up, but cant lower back down, and you have a huge mess..

 

the only way to put posts in the ground is to go *below* the frost line, which has to be done for fence posts..

but around here that means 36 inches in the ground! or more.. which is very impractical..

So remember ON the ground not IN the ground, and it will work fine..

 

The many variations on "ladder roadbed" that you will find in books and on-line,

where various roadbeds are made from PVC and plastic lattice, then buried under the track,

IMO wont work well in our climate..too much frost heaving for that method..they get all jumbled up with frost heave..

I also wouldnt attempt a concrete roadbed..

 

So, basic trench "floating track" method, or posts on blocks that sit on the ground, not buried..

Thats fourteen years of observation talking! ;)

and thats how im going to build my railroad..

 

Scot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I too have been in large scale since 1998 but could never understand the idea of digging a little trench and filling it with rock? I've been in the mass dirt moving business all of my life and we call trenches dug down and filled with stone French drains. They drain off low spots in a pleasing to the eye way instead of using culverts or concrete lined water runways. But the idea of using that idea for roadbed is beyond me as that little trench is the ideal spot for water to congregate and stay trapped. Then when it freezes you have a big ice cube under your railway! 

 

Real railroads will have at least 3' of ballast under them from what I've seen but they have ditches on both sides draining all that rock. Modern highways are the same. The old highways were made over the old dirt roads and most are holding up fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I figure we have choices up here.

1) Go down 4 1/2' to get under the frost line. Still need a French drain style bed with rock and widen the hole at the bottom to prevent heave. Use pilings to get high enough to prevent ground heave from upsetting the roadbed.

2) build on top of the ground re-enforcing what you can inside of concrete. Use drainage stone underneath for removing water or providing a crush zone! Use fabric to try and get some life out of the rock.

3) throw it down and go for a ride. Fix it in the spring!

(I'm using all three where I need to)

As I grow older I'll probably wish I went elevated higher! Heck, I'm wishing that already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
  • Create New...