SteamPower4ever Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Aaargh ... droooollll Is it just me or are the nose curves of the real F units a little more ... rounded ... than the MTH models? You know, the cheek bones, so to speak. I've read somewhere that no picture ever has done the MTH models justice, so it could be lighting effects playing tricks with my eyes. Santa Fe Super Chief by Bob Reck, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Yes they are. After trying to duplicate the prototype look many times, I know how difficult it is to get just the correct compound curve. The difficulty in machining a plastic injection mold is that it is easier to use movements of the mill cutter in straight geometric moves, so the large radii are difficult to reproduce. I see it in almost all E unit models. I didn't make mine on a mill, so after about 6 or eight evolutions, I think I got it about right, or as close as I can get the curves by hand. Here is a pic of mine. Bob. ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamPower4ever Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 I thought so - and I have noticed the better compound curves on your models, Bob. They're really great. I friend - a mechanical engineer - once told me that the most difficult thing to create is a compound curve. Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Thank you. The next locomotive that I will make will be an E-7, but this time I will use all of my own stuff, including the cab mold from the cab in the picture. It is not perfect, but I think it will look OK. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 I put that MTH SFe WB picture right against your picture of the real one. The MTH definitely has stronger cheek bones! To be fair, the angle of your picture is pointed up from ground level. You can see a glimpse of "the bones" even in the real one. Look right next to the outside windshield for a steel bend. Bob's hand made version appears much smoother and closer to the real one. I would like to see her painted and at the same angles though. Does the flat grey mask anything? Right now it appears to be right on to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Here is a comparison. I showed the left side because I have a crack on the right. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Looks good to me! I have a Great Triains E-8 nose, if you want to mold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Hi Jerry, send me a picture. That would be cheating. Let me see what it looks like please. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Engineer Joe, I value your input. What do you think of my E-F cab shape? Either positive or negative. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Bob, I think it looks great. I am not very good at the older models but what I see looks right on. I only looked at modern models in the beginning. I mentioned I'd like to see your's painted and as a final product. I follow your posts and find your work to be very inspiring to try things that I never attempted before. I need to look at scratch building from more directions. It would open up more things to attempt, and a more successful outcome. Your posts should inspire the manufacturers to be as accurate as possible. Some of the mass produced older G gauge products, were just weak at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Here's one shot, I sent you some others via email. Someone cut it off a engine to make a B, I guess. Has some Great Trains parts glued to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Looks pretty good to me. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 Boy, That's a tough one to call as I've been looking at various pics of F & E Units...and they all look a little different! I think the lighting has a lot to do with that. I do know that the headlights were all finished by hand...that is they used Bondo to make the smooth compound lines. Seems Rapido had the same sorts of questions when they were making the tooling for their FP9... http://www.rapidotrains.com/telegraph21.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 I read the whole story from the president of Rapido and boy can I relate to the difficulty of capturing of the true shape of the bulldog nose. I don't feel so bad now as my cab was done by looking at pictures and various drawings and sculpting my desired shape. I finally got what looks like to me a satisfactory likeness, not perfect, but good enough for the girls I go with. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert405 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I would just like to show everyone what little I have in g scale. I have a Kalamazoo 4-4-0 American from the mid 1980s, a Bachmann 5th Generation ten wheeler, and currently being shipped, a Bachmann 0-4-0 Porter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Hi fellows and happy new year! I finnally figured out again how to post photos on the forum so here is a look at my US roster. Strictly Pennsy electric and diesels are used as well as live steam as that's the reason I got into gauge one and 1/32 scale modeling in the first place: the first is my MTH GG1 lowered with flanges turned down and pantographs filed down to scale size. The second was the F3 switching some cars at a siding (which in reality is the lead to the branch to the indoor terminus Then the accucraft T1 in full swing with my scratch built B 60 baggage behind Then I was lucky to get a K4 Then I took advantage of the MTH sale to snatch a PA 1 set This is the only photo I found of my VO1000 on a turntable track in the engine terminal This is a position light signal I scratch built in brass This is my N5 I scratchbuilt of brass and aluminum This is my D78 diner I scratchbuilt of aluminum with David Leech trucks this is my latest a much modified and detailed Lionel GP7 These are a pair of Gondolas I scratch built in styreen Sorry folks the captions didn't end up where I put them... I hope you enjoy these! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Whoa! Who makes the cars that the GG1 is pulling in the top picture? All of it is very nice equipment. & It's tuff to make those old Lionel's look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Hi Joe, its actually a breeze to make something nice out of those old Lionels, it took me off and on about four days work at about 3-5 hours of work each. it is one of the easiest superdetailing jobs I ever did. Now mind you I am not finished yet, there still needs the screens on the hood louvers (I haven't found the apropriate mesh yet) and a few other small things like lifting rings. The lightweight cars are David Leech from Vancouver Canada, they are all aluminum, full scale length and of authetic PRR diagrams. On the two fleet of modernism cars (pre war 1938 cars) I used his pullman standard trucks, and on the three post war ACF 1949 car I used USA trains trucks narrowed down a good bit. They are all 1/32 cars. I should look up with Accucraft to see if they would sell me three pairs of their new lightweight passenger car trucks to replace the I/29 scale USA trucks. I don't know if he still makes them but you can look up his site on Google and ask him. They are very nice cars.I have taken them to exhibitions and they are sturdy, light and run fine. You can see my K4 doing it's stuff with these cars on this video of Rail expo 2014: Best wishes to all for the new year, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Thank you Simon! I've never seen that (Aster??) GN steamer before! Beautiful PRR train you have there. That track seems as smooth as it can be. I've never seen your Aluminum PRR cars before either! At least, I didn't notice them for what they are. As I learn more, I realize what I'm actually seeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 I'm not sure if I showed my last MTH Dash 8 w/ PS3? I had to contact MTH to get the correct fixed pilot for the front, so that took some extra time. Midge took care of me. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Rats! He's out of the business! Nice stuff though. user.dccnet.com/d.leech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 You are lucky with Midge though, when I asked if they could provide me with a scale pilot for my F3 they couldn't. I had to modify one with the huge opening. My trackwork is based on a couple of things: One. When I was 13 years old there were a lot of articles in the model Railroader on using scale size rails code 70 and handlaid track so I learned then in HO, Concrete under the track makes up for the weakness of the rail itself. Two. Also there were those fabulous John Armstrong articles on laying out tracks for realistic (and much smoother) operation with wider radiuses that used before. Basically he remaked that most locos were designed to negociate (at very low speeds) 380 foot radius curves found in and around engine terminals and interchange wyes. That scales out to about 11' curves in gauge one, I try and stay above that always (not just when I can, Always!) It is much easier for us in the garden than for HO or O scale modelers in house. Three. When you run live steam as I do without radio control, you must have smooth reliable track. Try and contacting David, he might have some solution for you he is a very nice fellow. But retirement is such a good thing, he might not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bappu Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Here is my MTH Challenger 3977 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Welcome Bappu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Great engine . I made a carrier for mine to get it out to the layout. First one I made big enough to carry it with the tender hooked up, but was sooo long and heavy I seldom ran it. So made a lightweight one like I did for my Big Boy, just a 1/4" piece of plywood, with some wood strips on the edges, so it would just rest on the rails(depends on your tie size). 1.5" strip down the middle for the wheels to straddle. Handle is screwed to the strips and 'L' brackets are used on the inside edge. I have since used velcro strips, since the bunji cords would stretch out. Just screwed the strips to the base and long enough to overlap the one from the other side some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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